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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Group Buy: Budget CRI 95 LED Strip Lights

Blue. NO RED!! Aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrggggggghhhhh......... <cast into the gorge of eternal peril...>
 
If I haven't replied to your PM or email yet, I will get back to you later tonight or tomorrow. Busy day.

The controller document with all the details may not get out today. Depends on how quickly the manufacturer gets back to me. I am hammering out a few more details based on some feedback I got from you guys. This controller is going to rock :)

If you are just tuning in an wondering what all this 'red pill' talk is about, start here: http://www.reduser.net/forum/showth...Strip-Lights&p=1461696&viewfull=1#post1461696

A few people have asked me to summarize this massive thread in the first or second post. I'll definitely do that as soon as I get a chance.

If you want to be an alternate/get in on round 2 then PM me and I'll add you to the list.
 
Can I put in a formal request?

...is it possible for the foolcat software to animate the lighting settings...

OR...

give this rig DMX capability via cat5 or 3/5 pin cable? DMX functionality would be my ultimate goal.
 
give this rig DMX capability via cat5 or 3/5 pin cable? DMX functionality would be my ultimate goal.

LiteGear has a few DMX dimmers in decent price ranges(Cheap, medium, higher up) I bought the medium priced one. The medium priced one says its been used at 24fps but recommends tests at higher rates.(I would always do test when trying a new product that may cause unexpected results with an LED anyways) They have a higher up model that supposed to be completely Flicker Free. I'm still waiting for my Pocket Console and wireless transmitters to come in, but decided to rent one on the show I am currently gaffing to try out the dimmer. I have a night INT car scene Friday which we will light the scene with and get to test out the dimmer.

Right now I just have the DMX dimmer for dimmers, because single Flicker Free dimmers cost 250$-400$ And the DMX dimmer cost 120$ Sure the console cost 300$ But I'll be using it for many other applications. The console and 4 channel DMX dimmer isn't very large If you were to velcro them together I'm sure you could still almost fit it in your front pocket! Still smaller than a 2 Bank Kino ballast. The console also can run off of a 9V battery. You can also daisy chain the dimmers easily via DMX and control more channels with the console. which is what I really like.

You can also get small 6 channel DMX consoles in the 100$ price range which I believe are slightly smaller and also run off of a 9V battery. I prefer the Pocket Console because you can 'patch channels' all the way up to 512.

These work great, very easy to set up, literally plug and play. But I still want to get some inline style dimmers. For those people planning on doing the boom china lantern style thing, having all this extra gak is kind of overkill. Inline dimmers would be the best option for that. I would even end up velcro(ing?) it to the base of the pole and have easy control of it, if you wants to play the overhead streetlights or any practical(dim up/dim down). Which is also why having something with a reliable(Preferably hardwired) smooth dimming control is pretty important. Last thing you want is the reception to cut in and out in a scene and it end up being jumpy looking

syfAIEhl.jpg


(I don't have a proper case yet, still not sure how much I want to add to it, and don't want to buy a case too small)
 
I will be using same (from Home Depot.
9e65552b-d7ea-4aa6-9c10-0156a9df740d_400.jpg
 
I will be using same (from Home Depot.

I don't think that's the same thing. What you posted is a clear fluorescent tube protector. Clear is far from ideal, and it's going to be hard to get the strip inside there since it's entirely curved and one solid piece. It's only a few bucks, so go for it. I just don't think you'll like the results and you may waste 4 feet of light if you manage to stick it in there.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-Fluorescent-Tube-Protector-TGT8CL4-R24/100163152
 
I don't think that's the same thing. What you posted is a clear fluorescent tube protector. Clear is far from ideal, and it's going to be hard to get the strip inside there since it's entirely curved and one solid piece. It's only a few bucks, so go for it. I just don't think you'll like the results and you may waste 4 feet of light if you manage to stick it in there.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-Fluorescent-Tube-Protector-TGT8CL4-R24/100163152

They are same as Kino Flo Lamp Safety Coating Kit (however $2 cheaper - lol)
 
I don't think that's the same thing. What you posted is a clear fluorescent tube protector. Clear is far from ideal, and it's going to be hard to get the strip inside there since it's entirely curved and one solid piece. It's only a few bucks, so go for it. I just don't think you'll like the results and you may waste 4 feet of light if you manage to stick it in there.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-Fluorescent-Tube-Protector-TGT8CL4-R24/100163152

you just need a piece of strip aluminum that they sell to attach the strip to and then roll diff and slide on the inside....viola icelight on the cheap
 
Just so you guys know, when Brandon is talking about "Tubes" they aren't exactly tubes. More like half tubes, with a flat aluminium track I guess you could call it. You would want to stick your LEDs to something flat(ish) the covers are also diffused. They aren't really tubes. And using something like that would be kind of useless. may as well use a kino tube? If you want the hard(Harsh) light, you can always pull the covers. These aluminium profiles aren't something new, or special. they are made for under the cabinet lighting and other residential/commercial applications.
 
I was just reading another thread about the new Sekonic C-700R Spectrometer and it got me wondering if there are any published spectral analysis for the LED lights in this group buy. I am especially curious since standard CRI testing methods are apparently based only off of 8 specific colors and therefore are not a very good way to determine how the measured light source might interact with something complex like skin tones. Here is a picture I found from a test where a turquoise dress was lit with both tungsten continous-spectrum lighting and LED lighting. Under the LED light the dress came out as a regular blue since the LED light source didn't have any turquoise specific frequencies in it.


NOTE: I was trying to link to the image directly but for some reason Reduser keeps on changing the domain name on me.
 

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'Tubes' options are going out with the controller details as soon as I get word back from the manufacturer about a couple modifications I'm asking for based feedback you guys gave me and another idea I had.

The production line makings our strips is hard at work. I just got a test report and the specs are looking even better than quoted. I told them to test every batch of our lights so detailed reports can be included with our orders. Anything not up to spec gets redone.


Here is a picture I found from a test where a turquoise dress was lit with both tungsten continous-spectrum lighting and LED lighting.

The article that photo is from is from 2011. LED technology has greatly improved over the last 4 years. I hated the look of LED lighting back in 2011. The difference between then and now, with regards to high end product, is night and day. There will be a detailed spectral analysis report done on every batch of our lights and it will be included with our orders. I'm very confident you will be happy with the results.


also interested in chinaballs if that wasn't added yet

That won't be until shortly after everything ships most likely.
 
This is great to know (about the included spectral analysis). I can't wait for all this to arrive. Like I said, I am very curious to see how these lights handle difficult colors and skin. Maybe if we are feeling particularly evil, we can throw into the mix some ungodly-hard-to-photograph-in-RGB-color-space tropical fish :)
 
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