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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

EPIC Wishlist

Any idea how long a RED brick will last on an epic?

Uli Plank said:
@Will: Yes, you can power from a RED brick at your belt via a 2B-to-1B adapter cable.
Click to expand...
 
I'm with Josh on the Black Shading deal. It seems like Black Shading is critical to reduce noise at various shutter speeds. When I turn on "Factory settings" my Black Shading is set for 37C at 1/42, according to "System Status"... Who in the factory set it at 1/42? So to have a 1/48, I have to use my 1 (one) user calibration. And if I want to have a calibration for 1/192, I have to wait 20 min. Having 3 or 4 user defined Black calibrations seems straight forward enough to me. Maybe more could be stored on that inexpensive 8GB or 16GB SSD that David suggested for storing the latest stable firmware.

So to take a previous request a step further....
A simple dropdown that allows switching between various user definable setups with these parameters:
FPS
Shutter
Redcode
Color Temp
Black shading profile
Aspect Ratio/Size

And of course those setups can be saved to aforementioned SSD ;)
 
While I second the idea of having more stored presets, rest assured that there will be no noticeable difference between a 1/42th and a 1/48th second black shading.
 
I think that obsessive paranoia has taken over when it comes to black shading. I really do. A black shading calibration at about 32 degrees is just about perfect for a high percentage of situations.




David
 
Will Keir said:
Any idea how long a RED brick will last on an epic?
Click to expand...

I would say that to get through a full shoot day (12hrs plus) you need three to four RED bricks if you are not going to cycle them.

Minimum would be two red bricks and four redvolts (only if you have a side handle.

Four fully charged RED bricks will power the camera for a long time in "normal" conditions, IE not extreme heat or cold.

David
 
I agree, Epic is awesome and does not need to change. But this is just what I been thinking of. It would be good to have a red-green little light on meny that is indicating if camera have same temp as loaded black shade. ..or some auto funktion that select black shade setting based om abient temp.
 
Yes.

I think you would need a swing of more than 10-15 degrees in camera to really have to do it.

If you were out shooting on the ICE, SUB zero cross country skiing ( :) Yes I remember those shots ) with the camera running a low ambient temperature, then an interior interview in the afternoon at room temperature, then maybe if this caused the camera to swing the running temperature from 15 degrees to 30 degrees you might need to blackshade OR just switch to the factory default which would cover that temperature range.

David
 
For my part, I wouldn't call it obsessive paranoia, I'd call it ignorance and lack of experience. I am trying to make the switch from photography to video and have never had to deal with black shading before. As has been stated by others, the documentation lightly touches on how to calibrate but not so much on why and when. In the longest thread I've read about it on Reduser, I *thought* Jarred said it was important when changing shutter speed. SO maybe there isn't a big difference in shading for 1/42 vs. 1/48, but why do 1/42. Make the factory setting be room temp at 1/48 since that is the most common scenario.

But back to the wish list. We can talk about black shading elsewhere.
 
Andy,

I was not aiming it generally at you. There have been many, many threads recently that seem to have turned black shading into an "issue". In my opnion it is not.

I've been capturing incarnations of RED footage since the start and black shading has basically been reserved for two instances:

-firmware upgrades when the camera is at operating temperature.
-Before attempting to use RED in long exposure mode to avoid hot pixels

That is it. I've had my EPIC since September and I have not had any of the "Black Shading issues" that people are describing under normal operating conditions. It seems it's a good idea to let the EPIC "warm up" to operating temperature, around 30 degrees, before you plan to film and push the EPIC in post to a HIGH ISO like 2000.

Beyond this, I have sensed this "thing" around the forum, that this is a big problem (like gate flare) when in fact each thing can be carefully tuned with a bit of knowledge.

So. I was not picking on you at all.

Blackshading might be reserved for EXTREME shifts. LIke from 1/50th to 1/2000th of a second, or from 1/2000th to 1/2 second.

But I would consider a "safe" range of shutter speed anywhere from 1/4th to 1/250th or 1/500th.

This would be worth testing, with a camera at temperature.

David
 
That's helpful, David. Thanks. No offense taken. I really am quite green in my Red experience, but hopefully getting less green and more Red every day. (color grading humor ;) )
 
I would very much like to see open gate and dark detail enabled for the bomb evf.
 
David Battistella said:
Andy,

I was not aiming it generally at you. There have been many, many threads recently that seem to have turned black shading into an "issue". In my opnion it is not.

I've been capturing incarnations of RED footage since the start and black shading has basically been reserved for two instances:

-firmware upgrades when the camera is at operating temperature.
-Before attempting to use RED in long exposure mode to avoid hot pixels

That is it. I've had my EPIC since September and I have not had any of the "Black Shading issues" that people are describing under normal operating conditions. It seems it's a good idea to let the EPIC "warm up" to operating temperature, around 30 degrees, before you plan to film and push the EPIC in post to a HIGH ISO like 2000.

Beyond this, I have sensed this "thing" around the forum, that this is a big problem (like gate flare) when in fact each thing can be carefully tuned with a bit of knowledge.

So. I was not picking on you at all.

Blackshading might be reserved for EXTREME shifts. LIke from 1/50th to 1/2000th of a second, or from 1/2000th to 1/2 second.

But I would consider a "safe" range of shutter speed anywhere from 1/4th to 1/250th or 1/500th.

This would be worth testing, with a camera at temperature.

David
Click to expand...

David, I don't want to derail this thread, but I have to totally agree with you on this. I've been shooting on my Epic since July, including a major, multi-night still/motion project for a headlight manufacturer where I shot HDRx at high ISOs and various shutter speeds. I have only black-shaded when I've done a firmware upgrade. Some of those images were enlarged to wall-size for a Las Vegas trade show. (Mark Toia has said the same thing, and he shoots all over the world for big-budget clients.) This business of waking up every morning and black-shading your camera seems a little nutty to me. That said, more memories for long-exposure BS storage would be a welcome feature.

And now that I'm back to the thread at hand... Cast my vote for pre-record and in-camera ramping. And I absolutely love the idea of a small SSD for firmware. It would be a perfect emergency kit.
 
Non-glare LCD screen (the current one is a nightmare in bright outdoor light - I am looking at myself all the time - uggg!)
Nikon mount
 
Redmote standalone wall charger.

Also, some sort of beeping or audio indication that black shading is complete. I try to blackshade in a dark closet, so I don't like opening the door continuously to check on it.

And lastly, a coffee maker module. Espresso would be nice, if only as a beta feature :wink5:
 
Did anyone mention a 5k 16:9 mode? That would be really nice asap :)
 
Max M. said:
Did anyone mention a 5k 16:9 mode? That would be really nice asap :)
Click to expand...

Not possible as the Mysterium-X sensor is 1.9 aspect... so 5120 x 2700 is as tall as 5K record mode can be...

.. we could do 4K 16:9 (4096 x 2304), but in practice 4K HD (3840 x 2160) is a better fit for TV workflows.

Personally I like 5K WS (5120 x 2160) - which is "scope" cinema aspect, but I can crop out a "TV" aspect.
 
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