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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Epic STREAK FLARING

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David - I didn't make the shutters for the Arri IIC. They are factory standard equipment that some users removed but then got flares.

Adam - I'm in New Jersey USA.

Don't really know yet what the mask should be made of. Heat of course has to be considered.
 
sounds like some internal reflection, memories of the IIC days as doug says. Also saw it a lot when people had odd PL adapters or doublers that weren't well covered with anti reflection material or that thin felt baffling. interesting.

But hey more flares i say bring it on
 
@Douglas

I was thinking that putting an adhesive tape in there might not be a great long term solution.

Absolutely. I'll be testing one today, but...
Looks to me that a re-design is what's needed.
This front area of the camera in front of the sensor looks like it may be removable.
There are fasteners there into the black metal face, that are partly obscured by the PL mount, as you look in.
I think that a re- design of the area in front of the OLPF is the only really decent solution, and hopefully a new design wil be able to easily replace what's there now.

Come on, Red... This needs to happen quickly.
 
Well, who knows what the best solution is? But it sounds pretty simple, actually, compared to some of the stuff I've made for two very famous Jims.

How about a behind the lens flare INCREASER?

Super Flare Boy
Flare Me 9000
Mr. Flare
Snare a Flare
Glare N Flare
Streaks and Tips
Freaky Streaky Mark 4

Oh, it goes on and on . . .
 
Well, who knows what the best solution is? But it sounds pretty simple, actually, compared to some of the stuff I've made for two very famous Jims.

How about a behind the lens flare INCREASER?

Super Flare Boy
Flare Me 9000
Mr. Flare
Snare a Flare
Glare N Flare
Streaks and Tips
Freaky Streaky Mark 4

Oh, it goes on and on . . .

on the packaging: "caution: use spf 80+ to protect yourself from these flares!"
 
I just tested " Creatology Foam Sheeting" (adhesive backed) from Michaels art supplies in Santa Monica.
Cut to size with a box cutter.
Panning through the sun, the flares are greatly reduced and softened until...

It flares strongly again, briefly, when slightly more off- axis.
It's bounce off the internal part of the OLPF mount (2 or 3 mm) BEHIND the glass...
No user- fix possible for that, I'm afraid.

I'm sure the telescope lining mentioned in this thread will work better than my adhesive foam.
 
Hmmmm....

Quelle drag.

Thanks so much for testing and reporting back.

David.
 
Mark and I are in synch. I tried to post this an hour ago but had net down for awhile... :

OK, I did some non-scientific tests with a laser and my Epic. Don't worry, I'm a professional with some optics knowledge and a lot of experience with internal reflections in astronomical telescope systems. There are several areas in the Epic that can reflect incoming light, including, but not limited to: 1) the "shelf" (actually four of them) in front of the OLPF, which is easily ameliorated with a bit of stick-on optical flockng; 2) potentially the edges of the OLPF, which could be treated to control reflections; 3) the radiused front edges of the frame just behind the OLPF; 4) the four "shelfs" just behind the OLPF; and 5) some of the electrical connections and wires that are part of the sensor. I'll try to grab some frames from the 5K shots I did with the laser, with no lens and with my 14mm Ultra Prime. BTW, I have played with ray tracing and lasers since high school (uh, that was in like 1966...). It's always interesting to see what a laser does to a camera system. The flares that I got with the laser are very similar to other real-world examples I have seen here and in my own shoots. This is FWIW, and likely the Red techs have a grip on this by now.

Mike
 
Mark and I are in synch. I tried to post this an hour ago but had net down for awhile... :

OK, I did some non-scientific tests with a laser and my Epic. Don't worry, I'm a professional with some optics knowledge and a lot of experience with internal reflections in astronomical telescope systems ... It's always interesting to see what a laser does to a camera system. The flares that I got with the laser are very similar to other real-world examples I have seen here and in my own shoots. This is FWIW, and likely the Red techs have a grip on this by now.

Mike

Wow - you had a laser near the sensor. Braver man than me!
 
Mark and I are in synch. I tried to post this an hour ago but had net down for awhile... :

OK, I did some non-scientific tests with a laser and my Epic. Don't worry, I'm a professional with some optics knowledge and a lot of experience with internal reflections in astronomical telescope systems. There are several areas in the Epic that can reflect incoming light, including, but not limited to: 1) the "shelf" (actually four of them) in front of the OLPF, which is easily ameliorated with a bit of stick-on optical flockng; 2) potentially the edges of the OLPF, which could be treated to control reflections; 3) the radiused front edges of the frame just behind the OLPF; 4) the four "shelfs" just behind the OLPF; and 5) some of the electrical connections and wires that are part of the sensor. I'll try to grab some frames from the 5K shots I did with the laser, with no lens and with my 14mm Ultra Prime. BTW, I have played with ray tracing and lasers since high school (uh, that was in like 1966...). It's always interesting to see what a laser does to a camera system. The flares that I got with the laser are very similar to other real-world examples I have seen here and in my own shoots. This is FWIW, and likely the Red techs have a grip on this by now.

Mike
Mike, just to be clear, you can make flares on your footage using lasers? At what power would you "feel" was safe to use, just in case you accidentally pointed directly into the lens with a laser.

(Not trying to get you to make a recommendation, just a what if kind of thing you might be comfortable doing for yourself.)
 
I used a very low power handheld laser for this, less than 5mw. No pixels were fried in the performance of these tests...

Mike
 
Oh, the test production was certified safe by PETS - People for the Ethical Treatment of Sensors...
 
Have seen this a few times over the years on various film cameras, all of which were attributed to "shiny surfaces" reflecting light behind the PL mount in the camera body. The solution each time was matte black paint...
 
I used a very low power handheld laser for this, less than 5mw. No pixels were fried in the performance of these tests...

Mike

That's interesting - I have been wondering how to get the cliche SWAT team laser sights in a digitally shot film without frying the sensor! Can you give us a link to the one you used - was it red or green. Presumeably it's hard to get a green one at low wattage?

Thanks.
Eric
 
I used a very low power handheld laser for this, less than 5mw. No pixels were fried in the performance of these tests...

Mike


I just spent 8500$ on a new sensor for my Epic-m after somebody apparently played with lasers and the camera... just a warning to people who don't know EXACTLY what they are doing: NEVER aim a laser at your sensor!
 
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