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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Epic STREAK FLARING

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Douglass, you make one and I will buy one. I was able to see the streak by slowly tilting the camera up towards the can lighting in my ceiling. Prior to this experiment, I have not seen it in the last three months shooting the EPIC outdoors.

I just threw out a bunch of adhesive backed velvet last weekend. Of course I would be afraid to try and use it so close to the OLPF. Once it sticks, it does not let go. I used it in my theater to cover doors, and trim, to improve the rooms contrast ratio. :)
 
Flare flocker! By doug underdahl. Lol. :)

Used in a sentence. Overheard on set.

"just get a Pugh inspired Underdahl flare flocker on that."

if you say it out loud it's actually funny.


David
 
I can't see the pictures well enough on my iPhone. I agree a sharpie us a bad idea. If you edit your post. I'll edit my original post so no one tries it.
 
David Battistella said:
Used in a sentence. Overheard on set.

"just get a Pugh inspired Underdahl flare flocker on that."

if you say it out loud it's actually funny.


David
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The part causing the problem looks like it's maybe some kind of flange...

which would make the solution the FLANGE FLARE FLOCKER.
 
Great thread. I have also seen this on my Epic.

Is there any chance a flat black paint pen could do the job for now?

Douglas, I will take 3 of those flockings please :)

Rich
 
Douglas Underdahl said:
I think that I could design and make lovely self adhesive, polycarbonate, black flocked masks to solve this problem . . .

Might be able to devise a simple way for owners to self install.

If you have an Epic and need one, stop by?
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Hey Doug, how long would you need the camera for this? I'm still planning to visit soon for the thing we talked about, just had lots of distractions lately. Is this something you could do at the same time if I bring an Epic?
 
I think it would take about an hour of experimenting and measuring, Adam. That would be great if you could swing by with your Epic.

Rich - it might be that you could hire one of those pinstriper guys to very carefully paint a thin, ultra flat black line over the offending part . . .

But hopefully, the PughDahl Flock Blocker will solve the problem without fuss.
 
One of the most interesting and informative (not to mention funny, "PughDahl Flock Blocker" indeed) threads on reduser.net in a long while. Thanks lads.
 
Deanan said:
We've got our optical engineering guys looking at it.
We can recreate it on epic and red one (and some other unnamed cameras) but it's different on each.
Don't know yet what an final recommendation will be.

If you want to mask the frame yourself, then by all means...
However, please be careful around the OLPF.
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Great you guys are on this, Deanan.

Certainly hope it's factory resolved before Epic-X ships though - don't really want to mess around near the OLPF. :smile:
 
I think the oddest thing about this flare is happening with any bright area, it doesn't even have to be a direct source light or the sun.. I was doing a shot panning to someone sitting on a couch with a window in the BG and the "flare" would just appear right before the window was even in frame, then went away when the window was in frame..... Odd! Hopefully they have a solve soon, because it was so distracting we nixed the pan.. (btw we had the full matte box on with siders, top flag and black tape mask insert inside the mb.. Not a hint of difference with or without..
 
I'm no expert, but if anyone is trying to roll their own flocking solution, be aware that some types of velvet flocking can shed tiny black hairs over time. Not the sort of thing you want running around near your sensor, needless to say. Hopefully, material sold for camera / telescope use would not shed.
 
Can anyone confirm this flare in footage taken with a camera using the Canon mount?
 
I remember a very similar problem with the Arri IIC. It had a ground glass set perpendicular to the gate, and at close proximity. It often happend that bright objects just out of frame would bounce light onto the shiny ground glass, then onto the film surface. Arri installed vertical metal shutters over the ground glass which solved the problem, but when you looked into the viewfinder, you saw black bars (like jail bars) running up and down the frame. Some guys pulled the shutters, but others got bit. I remember Ted Churchill had his put back in because a white van was just out of frame and it flared the image as he went by with his Steadicam. He said that really, the black bars weren't that bothersome, and they actually helped him keep the frame level.

Hope Adam or one of you other guys can loan or bring me an Epic so I can see if I can make a simple mask.
 
Douglas Underdahl said:
I remember a very similar problem with the Arri IIC. It had a ground glass set perpendicular to the gate, and at close proximity. It often happend that bright objects just out of frame would bounce light onto the shiny ground glass, then onto the film surface. Arri installed vertical metal shutters over the ground glass which solved the problem, but when you looked into the viewfinder, you saw black bars (like jail bars) running up and down the frame. Some guys pulled the shutters, but others got bit. I remember Ted Churchill had his put back in because a white van was just out of frame and it flared the image as he went by with his Steadicam. He said that really, the black bars weren't that bothersome, and they actually helped him keep the frame level.

Hope Adam or one of you other guys can loan or bring me an Epic so I can see if I can make a simple mask.
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Hi Douglas.. Where are you located?
 
2001: A Space Odyssey (1968)

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light is a complex phenomena. in this case, it seems to be pretty simple. stray, nonparallel light beams are passing (and bending) through the lens assembly at a glancing angle to hit the sensor. flagging may or may not make a noticeable difference, as the real problem lies between the optics and the sensor. what is needed to prevent this contamination is a really black black (theoretical black body) as used in telescope designs to peer into the universe. practically, it seems like some matte black tape or velvet will do, just be extremely careful around the sensor and OLPF (optical low pass filter) unless you want to be sending your shiny (or previously so) new toy back to california for vacation.
 
@Douglas

I was thinking that putting an adhesive tape in there might not be a great long term solution. I imagine the inside of that mount gets pretty hot (this is why they went with titanium right) so a glue or adhesive might get messy with heat.

Are you suggesting now that there might be a black metal mod piece like you did for the ARRI IIC, that could be put in place to "flag" those areas inside the sensor to prevent these types of flares.

That could work well.
 
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