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Epic/Scarlet and low light performance

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Andrew Allsbury

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There has been a lot of negativity roaming around regarding the MX sensor's low light sensitivity/performance. Could some seasoned RED vets chime in? I would personally love to know how it compares to the AF100, Thanks in advance!
 
Mmmm...was that in Shutter Island?
 
Yep "Shutter Island" was that shot using a Red One, I thought is was film, Hah!

I have seen a digital test with some one else doing something similar, I can't recall which camera it was performed on.
 
Phillip Bloom testing the f3 Sony
 
Mmmmm...I see...I remember hearing that was Red One also, but apparently we were mistaken...anybody else have some input on this topic? Would love some samples if possible.
 
Andrew Allsbury said:
Mmmmm...I see...I remember hearing that was Red One also, but apparently we were mistaken...anybody else have some input on this topic? Would love some samples if possible.
Click to expand...

Please look at the link I posted earlier in the thread.

That is exactly what you are looking for.
 
Michael, isn't that the scene from shutter island? That movie was shot on film per the imdb link above.
 
Andrew Allsbury said:
Michael, isn't that the scene from shutter island? That movie was shot on film per the imdb link above.
Click to expand...

No, it was test footage shot by David Fincher. They showed it as part of a reel at Red Day a couple years ago, it looked incredible in high resolution on the big screen. The youtube version can't even begin to do it justice.
 
Oh wow, that's great, thanks guys!
 
FS100 on a normal sunny day gets a surexposed pic at F22 at 0db. It's really really a sensitive sensor. Pics are beautiful at 3200 & 6400 ISO and you can reach 2X XXX ISO...

Don't expect going beyond 800 ISO with MX.
 
I've tested them all (except Scarlet…) very carefully with a Xyla-21 (see DSC Labs) and night shots. Only F3/FS100 and Alexa look a little bit deeper into the night. The AF10X is much noisier than RED.
BUT: FS100 has very low DR (around 10.5), F3 is aliasing and resolves HDTV only, just like the Alexa, which has the best image, but resolves half of what RED does.

Your choice now!
 
Phil Holland said:
Download Tonaci's footage and push it to ISO 12800.
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Easy there, Phil; you have to understand that when the footage is properly exposed at ISO800, when you "push it" to ISO12800 and then bring it back down to proper brightness with curves or exposure in RCX, you're essentially getting the same image as it was at ISO800. That's a perfect example of metadata and that's also why RED suggest you expose for ISO800 - in other words, all you're essentially saying is to boost the ISO to 12800 and then bring it back down to "ISO800" via other controls (curves, exposure, etc) and then thinking it's clean ISO12800. Know what I mean?

A better test is to go to Gunliek's thread and get some of his darker .r3ds (like his exposure test at t11+) and boost the ISO of those images. You'll quickly start to see the breaking point in terms of noise (conversely, this is also what makes the c300's ISO16000 performance pretty incredible.)
 
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Oh no. I was just saying that to show the shadow detail once it's lifted to that level. I wasn't implying boost it and then bring it down. Just wanted people to stare into the darkness and see what they can see. Should have been more clear. I was watching a movie :)

I agree that Gunliek's are a better low light example.
 
Word.

On topic - Personally, I don't mind a little noise in my image. When you combine downscaling with even slight noise reduction, I'm comfortable saying that you can get pretty good results up to ISO3200... Generally noise reduction smooths detail, but with 4k@1080p you've got resolution to spare. Add a little "film" grain and you could probably get usable ISO6400 (again, depending on your final output resolution and what you're comfortable with in terms of noise). Heck, if you're coming from DSLRs, most will probably be happy with the results of ISO3200.
 
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