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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Dragon slomo 300fps wich light

If you keep your shutter at 180 degrees, then you'll be at 1/600 of a second shutter which is ROUGHLY 3.25 stops darker, so you'll need to compensate for that in addition to flicker. The right light choice depends a lot on how far away from the light the talent has to be in order to get the framing you need. I think a K5600 (HMI) Joker 800 or 1600 would be a nice choice.
 
You can use 360 deg shutter which will gain you a stop and reduce flicker. At 300fps, 360 deg is 1/300 sec which is plenty fast enough to avoid motion blur.

Use sharp fast prime lens which will gain you back one or two stops.

Over 100fps, HMI "flicker free" ballasts may still flicker unless you use high frequency electronic ballasts like Arri's 1000Hz ones, or Panalux's 300Hz ones. They may also exhibit "arc wander" which may manifest as a moving hotspot/colour shift - diffusing the light through a large diffuser will help. It is still best to test the lamps at the shooting speeds required before the job.

Most Kinoflos are flicker free as long as they aren't dimmed. Kinoflo Vistabeams & Parabeams have a lot of punch. Even 4'x4 bank Selects might work if you can get them close to the subject without getting in shot.

Some cheaper LED panels may work if not dimmed, but only testing will ensure no flicker.

The larger Nila LEDs or the new Hexolights will be flicker free to over 300fps, even dimmed.
 
ericyoung said:
You can use 360 deg shutter which will gain you a stop. At 300fps, 360 deg is 1/300 sec which is plenty fast enough to avoid motion blur.
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I would be very careful about shooting 360 degree shutter. It is true that 1/300 of a second has virtually zero motion blur for realtime footage, but if you have an object moving very slowly within the frame, even the tiniest amount of motion blur is noticeable because the object is moving slowly. This site is littered with overcranked footage shot with a 360 shutter, and it always makes an otherwise beautiful image seem like video. I personally would rather introduce an extra stop of noise floor rather than have 360 smear in my footage.

EDIT: Matthew posted his video right before me. This shot looks great, but it is an example of what I'm saying. If you look at the rain drops falling, they are clearly exhibiting 360 degree motion blur. That can be an aesthetic choice, but let's all be clear that 1/300 sec shutter still has motion blur that doesn't look as filmic as a 180 (1/150) shutter would (Thank you for sharing, Matthew. The shot looks really great so if it didn't make the cut, the rest of the film must be fantastic).
 
Julio Quintana said:
I would be very careful about shooting 360 degree shutter. It is true that 1/300 of a second has virtually zero motion blur for realtime footage, but if you have an object moving very slowly within the frame, even the tiniest amount of motion blur is noticeable because the object is moving slowly. This site is littered with overcranked footage shot with a 360 shutter, and it always makes an otherwise beautiful image seem like video. I personally would rather introduce an extra stop of noise floor rather than have 360 smear in my footage.

EDIT: Matthew posted his video right before me. This shot looks great, but it is an example of what I'm saying. If you look at the rain drops falling, they are clearly exhibiting 360 degree motion blur. That can be an aesthetic choice, but let's all be clear that 1/300 sec shutter still has motion blur that doesn't look as filmic as a 180 (1/150) shutter would (Thank you for sharing, Matthew. The shot looks really great so if it didn't make the cut, the rest of the film must be fantastic).
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As usual, test with similar setup is only way to be sure.
 
If possible shoot outside, in the sun. It's flicker free for sure and you can shape the light with reflectors.
 
Julio Quintana said:
I would be very careful about shooting 360 degree shutter. It is true that 1/300 of a second has virtually zero motion blur for realtime footage, but if you have an object moving very slowly within the frame, even the tiniest amount of motion blur is noticeable because the object is moving slowly. This site is littered with overcranked footage shot with a 360 shutter, and it always makes an otherwise beautiful image seem like video. I personally would rather introduce an extra stop of noise floor rather than have 360 smear in my footage.

EDIT: Matthew posted his video right before me. This shot looks great, but it is an example of what I'm saying. If you look at the rain drops falling, they are clearly exhibiting 360 degree motion blur. That can be an aesthetic choice, but let's all be clear that 1/300 sec shutter still has motion blur that doesn't look as filmic as a 180 (1/150) shutter would (Thank you for sharing, Matthew. The shot looks really great so if it didn't make the cut, the rest of the film must be fantastic).
Click to expand...

You meant 1/600 ?
 
Julio Quintana said:
EDIT: Matthew posted his video right before me. This shot looks great, but it is an example of what I'm saying. If you look at the rain drops falling, they are clearly exhibiting 360 degree motion blur. That can be an aesthetic choice, but let's all be clear that 1/300 sec shutter still has motion blur that doesn't look as filmic as a 180 (1/150) shutter would (Thank you for sharing, Matthew. The shot looks really great so if it didn't make the cut, the rest of the film must be fantastic).
Click to expand...

Yeah man, if you read the lighting diagram and blog post, you'll understand that it was a deliberate choice. Long "smeary" rain drops is exactly what I wanted, nothing video-ish about it I don't reckon hehe....I guess it's a taste thing, and as long as people make choices like shutter speed, knowing what to expect, then it's all good :) I know I tested shooting at 300fps for a couple of days with different lighting situations and it was stressful trying to figure it out but in the end I was very pleased to know my cheap LED's worked a treat!

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Matthew Scott said:
Yeah man, if you read the lighting diagram and blog post, you'll understand that it was a deliberate choice. Long "smeary" rain drops is exactly what I wanted, nothing video-ish about it I don't reckon hehe....I guess it's a taste thing, and as long as people make choices like shutter speed, knowing what to expect, then it's all good :) I know I tested shooting at 300fps for a couple of days with different lighting situations and it was stressful trying to figure it out but in the end I was very pleased to know my cheap LED's worked a treat!
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I didn't read your blog, but the shot looked so well crafted that I guessed the shutter speed was a choice. Nice work and thanks for sharing.
 
Here is a quick frame pull from a project the other day, still needs to be colored but, shooting 240fps 180 using the new Hexolux 7" HMI LED's. only 2 heads with no other lights except the light from the windows… And they run on batt so you can take them anywhere.
I was pretty impressed with the out put as we ended up using about 70% of the possible output due to the amount of light they could produce. Never any flicker issue and we shot from 120 up to the 240 and mixed shutter angles for some effects.

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Sailas Vanetti said:
Hey, thanks a lot for yours answers!!!!

I'll think to do some test with different light (led, hmi, tungsten and kinoflo).

I let you know wich setup will be the best...

Eric, I talk to the director and unfotunately he wanted do it with canon lenses...

Ciaoooo
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Canon does do some fast primes - look at Julio's signature!
 
Matt, are those cool lights LED panels? And do only the cheap panels work for this?
 
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