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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DRAGON: Improve it...

Now for a more serious idea: make the Blackshade profile part of the RDC folder or the RMD sidecar. That may help when diagnosing noise issues, and otherwise tracking the quality of the sensor over time.
 
Now for a more serious idea: make the Blackshade profile part of the RDC folder or the RMD sidecar. That may help when diagnosing noise issues, and otherwise tracking the quality of the sensor over time.

It would only be of any use if the R3D contained the meta-data of the Sensor Temp and could pass that into the RMD along with the name of the CalMap.

To my knowledge - the only way to get this info is RED looking at the LOG file. Further - sensor temp can change during a shot - and I highly doubt it's worth the bandwidth to be writing sensor temp into an R3D on a frame by frame basis.
 
Maybe what Dragon really needs is 3d LUT implementation now that the basic raw file emulates most other camera systems.

need to have the ability to do different LUTS on the camera, evf and client monitor.

Battistella
 
You can, in fact shoot stills with the epic. It's easy with a gpio trigger (like the Aaton handle I modified) set the epic in timelapse mode with gpio trigger and every time you trigger you will be grabbing one frame. It's a great way to cut down on media usage if you just want some stills :)

Battistella
Yes, single frame in timelapse mode with gpio trigger, and I've been triggering strobe by key mapping to a Side Handle button; but how do you get both to occur simultaneously? As far as I can tell you can program the gpio to do one thing or another, but not two different things at the same time. I assume it would be no problem for a strobe sensor to trigger the gpio, but I would think by the time the frame was recorded the light from the strobe would have already come and gone. How to get these two in sync?
 
3d LUTs
monitor flip/flop
ISOs below 250 available in camera (put a *child* lock on it if you have to...)
punch in during recording and punch in for HDMI port only
Strobe mode working

But FWIW the camera is already amazing.
 
Maybe what Dragon really needs is 3d LUT implementation now that the basic raw file emulates most other camera systems.

need to have the ability to do different LUTS on the camera, evf and client monitor.

Battistella

+4,000,000,000

Or at least have a function in rcx that translates .cube into RMD within the parameters rcx can handle.
 
I would like to see AWB to be removed from the default key set up on the side handle. It is easy to disable or change but it has caused grief on set with a number of people i know. If it gets pressed it changes the white balance, obviously , but what is not so obvious is that even when changed back to the correct WB it will have applied a tint. It's easy to fix in post or on set but I'm bored of having to disable that button and tired of explaining the situation to people.
 
YEAH that tint'll get ya. I actually watched a colourist try to balance out a huge shift in resolve, before being walking over and switching to the raw settings revealing a whopping -21 in the tint.
 
Pretty much just the power and record keys should be mapped. This might encourage people to explore the menus and set the camera up the way they want it.

battistella
 
Pretty much just the power and record keys should be mapped. This might encourage people to explore the menus and set the camera up the way they want it.

battistella

A really bad idea IMHO, most cameras get rented & Alexa will get selected every time if that happens.
 
I would like to see AWB to be removed from the default key set up on the side handle. It is easy to disable or change but it has caused grief on set with a number of people i know. If it gets pressed it changes the white balance, obviously , but what is not so obvious is that even when changed back to the correct WB it will have applied a tint. It's easy to fix in post or on set but I'm bored of having to disable that button and tired of explaining the situation to people.

I totally agree. AWB is dangerous, and placed in the the worst position possible on the side handle.
While we're talking defaults, Shutter Mode should be RELATIVE by default, so that it works like a film camera, and doesn't go to 360 degrees when the frame rate is increased, ruining shots. It's difficult to notice this until you're playing back.
I've keen raising this for years...
 
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