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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DJI Wireless Follow Focus - 1st Impression

meteorango said:
but I find the motor when plugged and standing by feels like its always under pressure, it vibrates a bit continuously.
Anyone came accross that?

Cheers everyone
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I have not used it a ton as I still prefer old fashion Follow Focus and only use DJI on Steadycam, but I have noticed the continuous vibration though. It's subtle, but there. I looked to see if it affected footage, but the footage seemed OK. I'll test more soon.
 
I've had mine for 3 weeks on a show using a ronin and my steadicam using canon L series lenses and the canon 30-105 Cine zoom and it has been working great on both. We've had no issues. In fact the ac's have liked using it a lot. I do wish Dji would release a zoom rocker finger wheel follow focus so you could attach it to the gimbal handle and roll the zoom your self. As well as a 3 channel option. It seems the three channel is in the plan but not a priority
 
How does the DJI compare to the Red Rock Micro?

I'm looking for one to use on a Movi.
 
Any user feedback on these yet? Been looking at one, hearing tales of motors burning out pretty quickly.
 
Craig Lees said:
D Tap is lethal!

Anyone interested in a group buy custom 2pin Lemo to DJI Focus 6pin lemo cable so you can run it out of the RED 2pin AUX port straight from camera/ RED cable-less Quickback V Lock plate? Anyone genuinely interested, please email me below.

Cheers,
Craig Lees
ED & SX UK
Lomo Anamorphic & FD SSC Sets
cogartlit@yahoo.co.uk
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The Red Quickplate Lemo 2-pin AUX power out wouldn´t power a Bartech receiver and M-One motor. Amperage seems to be too high for the internal protector, and everything -camera and Bartech- will simply power off. Rated power is 3.8 A, both taps combined, which evidently is not enough.
Question is: will it stand a DJI focus motor? Probably draws less power. Anyone has tried this?
By the way, the +1 Module Lemo 4 AUX power out is rated as 1 A max; definitively not worth trying...

Guido
 
So, how does this really hold up? I was intrigued by it, but read a lot about the gear head motor being rather useless with real cinema lenses (like the CN-Es), i.e breaking down. Is this really working on high intensity shoots or is it unreliable?
 
Having just gone through a what's good enough scenario with FF motors I'll tell you this - The red focus motor has more than twice the torque of the DJI motor. I found it not up to snuff with real lenses. I had to go and get a HEDEN. There is a reason the HEDEN, Preston, and m-1 motors have the torque they do - that's what you need to reliably drive any lens any time. anything less is a compromise and may work fine with easy lenses when it's warm, but you can't count on it.


Nick
 
Ned Wilson said:
Got the extended motor bracket. The stock bracket was driving me nuts. This extended bracket is such a huge improvement. If you have the DJI FF, you need this.

http://www.adorama.com/DJIFP15MQRM.html?hotlink=t&svfor=5m&gclid=CKbE0f_k-MwCFQFahgod_Q8MYg
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One work around that some suggested which I've been using is, mount the FF to a top rod if possible, then rotate the rod when switching lenses that way you don't have to loosen the DJI bracket. Works great for me.
 
I just got through a weekend of punishment for the focus system. I did a promo spot with 2 simultaneous sets, with my 2 RED's and a DJI system in each. One was driving an Angenieux Style zoom lens 16-40 and the other a Tokina 11-16 cine zoom PL mount. No hiccups and issues whatsoever. The camera with the Angie, was on a jib, so the focus motor didn't have any rest all day.
As much as I'm, annoyed with DJI because of the Ronin firmware debacle, I have to say that my 2 Focus systems work flawlessly.
 
Christoffer Glans said:
So, how does this really hold up? I was intrigued by it, but read a lot about the gear head motor being rather useless with real cinema lenses (like the CN-Es), i.e breaking down. Is this really working on high intensity shoots or is it unreliable?
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You have to crank the torque / speed up to its highest settings. I'm not sure a lot people realize that it has torque settings. It's default has the torque at the lowest. It'll drive any modern prime without a problem (even CN-E). I've used it with Cookes, Leicas. Speeds, CP's and Ultras with ease. I bought it primarily for gimbal work where the motor combined with the MDR is a real weight saver. My AC's who are all experienced 600 guys and who work with Prestons and the like love the DJI and use it for conventional use on dolly or sticks. No motor fails after 30 days of use. The stock clamp is really crap. The extended clamp they make works great. As far as D Tap goes, there seems to a be a bit of panic about it. I've never mis mounted a D Tap ever. It's not something I worry about. check your D tap out and see if it can be put in the wrong way. It can't on any of my accessories. Because of its cheap price you'll probably hear of more issues as there will be more out there. It's like for every MOVI there are at least 20 Ronins out there. I suggest try it out for yourself and take advice from people who own one.
 
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