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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DJI RONIN - independent review and in-depth test

Jay Kim said:
I posted about the price drop on the DJI forum.
http://forum.dji.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2585&extra=page%3D1&lang=en
Click to expand...

I received the price adjustment with no issues. 2499 and still came with the free battery! I'm glad I didn't go with the used one that was available from BH for 2500.

I have been testing my unit the past two days. It takes a while to really get it dialed in but I am quite happy with the results I am getting. Scarlet with contax 25mm, paralinx arrow set up. I purchased the 24" WC lcd cable, it is not as flexible as I would like. I have set it up so far with my monitor on my camera, which makes it a bit top heavy and harder to balance, as well with the dp4 on top with paralinx so no cable at all. But the dp4 does not have histogram :(. With the WC cable it still runs quite nice, not as good as with no cable, but I ordered some 10mm expandable cable sleeve, and may strip the wire down and cover with this for more flexibility. Anyone have any experience with this? I opened it up a little, the first layer is small wire covering the entire cable, its not connected into anything, then some tinfoil type wrap then the cables which have the tinfoil as well. Is it ok to take it down to the wire or will not having the outer layers affect the cables performance?
 
Here is my Ronin test setup. Epic Dragon built with Leica-R 35mm, RT-Motion Receiver & one motor for Focus, Teradek Bolt Pro Transmitter, WC Anton Bauer plate with Switronix 90A battery, Red Tactical Top Plate, and OConnor OBox on the camera stage. The total weight is very close to the Ronin's maximum capacity of 16lbs. I mounted the Red 5" touch on the top handle bar and used a 24" thin monitor cable. I installed the Cinemilled Arm extensions to get enough clearance for the fore & aft adjustment & tilt movement. I got it balanced quite well but I noticed that I hit the bottom of the tilt vertical adjustment bar and the rear end of the pan slider bar. If I use a heavier lens, I probably won't get it balanced well.

Time to look for Vari-ND and a light-weight hood instead of a traditional mattebox to reduce a few ounces. Also, I like to find a solution to mount a brick battery under the vertical adjustment bar to adjust the vertical tilt balance easily. For the pan axis adjustment, either mounting a heavier and stronger Ronin battery (DJI??) or a third party pan axis slider extension (Cinemilled?) will solve the issue. Obviously, I can use a counterweight, but I try to avoid using any dead counterweights.

By the way, I couldn't get the price adjustment since my seller didn't get the deal like B&H or Amazon and that is why I posted on the DJI forum. Hope DJI can support small resellers and a buyer like me.
 

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Hi Jay,

Cimemill said in a video I saw a bit ago that they are making a vertical extender, to allow clearance at the back end.

What monitor cable/link is recommended for the monitor, please. As I understand it, the weight & stiffness can be significant issues.

Also, is a Pelican 1650 case enough to pack up the Ronin? Trek Pak has that 15% off sale this weekend and I am ordering up a few cases.

Thank you very much

Fury
 
Hi Nick,

I got the Brushless Gimbal's Superthin 24" Red LCD cable ($245). The 16pin connectors are not the genuine LEMO connectors but they are not bad quality connectors. I opened the connectors and checked inside and found that the cable work is indeed very good. For the cable, they used a flexible high speed HDMI cable (Copartner E119932 T AWM 20276) and it is a light weight and pretty flexible cable for the gimbal work. When I tested the ronin with the monitor attached to the top handle bar, I found no issues other than that I can use a bit longer cable. Therefore, I decide to build a few 30" Red LCD cable using the genuine LEMO FHG.1B.316.CLAD52Z connectors.

I love to test the Cinemilled drop-down pan axis slider bar extension when it is finally available. It will make my life so much easier.

My Ronin case works fine with the Cinemilled arm extensions and I don't have any reason to look for another case for the Ronin yet. However, the Pelican 1650 is a great case and I think it is big enough to pack up a Ronin.
 
I figured I'd bump this to get some guidance. I've read through a bit and seems like the Extenders for the arms, and or side mount for the brick seem like the best options.

I wanted to see what everyone recommended based on their experience so far? I don't have the RedVolts and am looking to pick a Ronin up on sale. Just trying to figure out the best way to use the Bricks still.

Thanks for the help and guidance!
 
Hey all, I'm just about to pull the trigger on a Ronin, but I had a question about the "upright" mode..
i have a little bit of concern (maybe unnecessarily so) about hanging my Red upside down on what (seems to be) an average mount. What are peoples experiences? Does it hang there ok? Or have people found this option 'too risky' ?

Thanks for any/all replies

Gary
 
The mount is more then adequate for the RED in any configuration inside the payload limits (16 lbs).
If you are going to work in that mode for extended period of time - you can also mount the camera upside-down (you'll need a top plate), so when you put the Ronin in the upright mode - the camera will be oriented the "right" way...

:sifone: Peter
 
Cheers Peter! (as always in quick with the knowledge ;) )
I think top plate might be the way to go then if the camera is fine in this mode.

Time to hit the gym prior to shooting :D
 
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