Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Custom Steadicam for REDusers <1800USD - Post your ideas

David Kellermann said:
You can't transmit smart data out of a battery plate, unless the battery plate has a special cable installed. So XLR, Dtap etc can't possibly transmit smart data (well XLR could, but you would need two extra pins for the smart data).
Click to expand...

If you can substitute "jack" for "special cable" in your first sentence, that's what I was trying to ascertain from Vitaliy. (Clearly you can do the same thing with a jack/port that you can do with a cable.) Will there be a 6-pin lemo jack on the plate that would enable those using smart V-mount batteries to use 6-pin lemos and cabling all the way up the post and to the back of the camera?
 
If you can substitute "jack" for "special cable" in your first sentence, that's what I was trying to ascertain from Vitaliy. (Clearly you can do the same thing with a jack/port that you can do with a jack/cable.) Will there be a 6-pin lemo jack on the plate that would enable those using smart V-mount batteries to use 6-pin lemos and cabling all the way up the post and to the back of the camera?
Click to expand...

As for my understanding it not only requires 6 pin connector, but different V mount plates supporting such batteries. So, it requires additional research.
 
Vitaliy Kiselev said:
As for my understanding it not only requires 6 pin connector, but different V mount plates supporting such batteries. So, it requires additional research.
Click to expand...

Would appreciate more info of this kind of plate being used, Vitaliy, either with a 6-pin jack built in or a captive 6-pin cable, perhaps as an option to the standard plate. Honestly, what makes the most sens for me in terms of resource leverage is to be able to replace one side of the double battery plate on the sled with an accessory-v-mount because I use the WC quickback system on my Switronix plate and can easily move the whole battery plate and battery from camera to another mounting point in seconds. Then I would only need a 6-pin lemo extension cable to get me from the Switronix captive cable up through the post and to the camera but don't know how feasible it would be to mess with one side of the sled's double battery plate.
 
Hey Vitaliy, Great photos of the new rig. I'm sure there are images somewhere of that actual bridge plate the connects to the camera but I was curious if there various mounting positions to offset the weight of cameras that may be more left/right heavy. I can't tell from the images posted. Thanks!
 
Regarding added diameter to gimbal sleeve ...

Vitaliy Kiselev said:
Here all is simple. manufacturer will provide solution that most people prefer, wither rubber or hard plastic.
Click to expand...

They need to be easily removable. Both should be supplied.
 
the sled itself doesn't seem to have changed other than supplying a dual battery bracket. It is the same stabilizer seen on their eBay page for a while now. Still waiting to see the photos with a 90 degree indication point on the tilt base, power junction boxes, lower bubble level, 15mm rod monitor mount. Hopefully He will update the photos with the required changes.

The arm does seem nicer, same with the docking bracket. looking forward to more photos and price :)
 
Steve Das said:
It is certainly coming along...but thought the monitor was to be rigged to a simple rod design.
Not sure how this bracket works in balancing but it looks awkward.
Click to expand...

Was looking at the monitor bracket also and trying to figure out if I'd prefer it or the 15 mm rod version. It looks like there's a rosette interface near the sled that allows off center positioning should you want that. And I'm assuming that slot and screw in the top of the base is for sliding the whole mount fore/aft with respect to the center post, but a video demo showing the operation of the whole mount would be helpful in terms of deciding which mount I'd prefer.
 
Hey Vitaliy, Great photos of the new rig. I'm sure there are images somewhere of that actual bridge plate the connects to the camera but I was curious if there various mounting positions to offset the weight of cameras that may be more left/right heavy. I can't tell from the images posted. Thanks!
Click to expand...

You mean multiple holes for screw here?

They need to be easily removable. Both should be supplied.
Click to expand...

Chris, I greatly value your input. Let's hear opinion of people who want to get this rig. I doubt that both will be provided.
 
the sled itself doesn't seem to have changed other than supplying a dual battery bracket. It is the same stabilizer seen on their eBay page for a while now. Still waiting to see the photos with a 90 degree indication point on the tilt base, power junction boxes, lower bubble level, 15mm rod monitor mount. Hopefully He will update the photos with the required changes.
Click to expand...

Check previous pages for my post with changes list.

90 degree indication point on the tilt base
Click to expand...

Can you make sketch showing exact type and place for the mark?

Right now you can use level to set it at proper angle.

power junction boxes, lower bubble level, 15mm rod monitor mount.
Click to expand...

Boxes are in the works now, so need some time, as I said, they'll be supplied as option.
Monitor mount is also in the works now, but must be ready soon.
Bottom level id odone, photos will be added soon.
 
+1, especially on the tilt indication points as that one may have gotten lost in the shuffle.
Click to expand...

It was not lost. I need to see sketches how you want them to look like to be usable. Marks are not hard to implement fast after we'll agree on best solution.
 
Elizabeth Lowrey said:
Would appreciate more info of this kind of plate being used, Vitaliy, either with a 6-pin jack built in or a captive 6-pin cable, perhaps as an option to the standard plate. Honestly, what makes the most sens for me in terms of resource leverage is to be able to replace one side of the double battery plate on the sled with an accessory-v-mount because I use the WC quickback system on my Switronix plate and can easily move the whole battery plate and battery from camera to another mounting point in seconds. Then I would only need a 6-pin lemo extension cable to get me from the Switronix captive cable up through the post and to the camera but don't know how feasible it would be to mess with one side of the sled's double battery plate.
Click to expand...

My understanding is that right now there are no power cables included... that's what I was pointing out. There is merely the double-sided plate, which has a d-tap. So you either have to make/buy a d-tap to 6-pin lemo (4 pins used, but its merely two wires split to 2+ and 2-)... OR you buy the optional J-box/D-box for the sled, and then make/buy a (more expensive) lemo to 6-pin lemo cable that plugs into the camera. In either case % wouldn't be shown as it wouldn't be a smart plate (and only 2-split-to-4 wires would be used.)

That's also why I asked if there was anything RED (camera) specific about the upgrades... Without the lemo already included, you'll be paying at least an additional ~$50+ to get a d-tap to lemo cable (which isn't ideal as its ~70Wh draw max, and the camera is at least 60 so powering the monitor from the ab/v-mount would be sketchy if it's even possible given that the d-tap would be used to power the camera). Conversely, the power cable would cost more if you needed more than one lemo connector (e.g. an extension cable that has a female 6-pin on one end and a male 6-pin on the other...) Each lemo connector is at least $40 and not easy to solder.

In other words, you'd still have to fend for yourself when it comes to powering the camera (and monitor), and it's not like the cable will cost $10.
 
It would be very very convenient and important in my mind to have an easy and out of the box solution that comes with this rig for having a properly run power cable from the plate to the top of the sled for a Red DSMC (Scarlet/Epic) camera. I really don't want to be messing around with all of the extra adapters and cables unnecessarily if I go with this rig.
 
Tyler Bourns said:
It would be very very convenient and important in my mind to have an easy and out of the box solution that comes with this rig for having a properly run power cable from the plate to the top of the sled for a Red DSMC (Scarlet/Epic) camera. I really don't want to be messing around with all of the extra adapters and cables unnecessarily if I go with this rig.
Click to expand...

This basically sums up my wordy post(s) regarding a RED specific edition. Something that is geared to work out of the box with Epic/Scarlet -- plug in v-mount or ab-mount battery, attach monitor (with d-tap power), and plug in the already-routed 6-pin lemo at the top. Easy peasy.

Unfortunately nothing (pictures or info of the remodel) has lead me to that conclusion yet... and it's also why I was hoping David was still running this group buy, since that was seemed to be his intention from the beginning and what he's working towards with the other options.
 
My understanding is that right now there are no power cables included... that's what I was pointing out. There is merely the double-sided plate, which has a d-tap. So you either have to make/buy a d-tap to 6-pin lemo (4 pins used, but its merely two wires split to 2+ and 2-)... OR you buy the optional J-box/D-box for the sled, and then make/buy a (more expensive) lemo to 6-pin lemo cable that plugs into the camera. In either case % wouldn't be shown as it wouldn't be a smart plate (and only 2-split-to-4 wires would be used.)
Click to expand...

OK, let's make it more clear. Right now it is double plate with D-Tap connector. As for cable it'll be provided as option. So talks about $50, etc are speculation now.

That's also why I asked if there was anything RED (camera) specific about the upgrades...
Click to expand...

Improvements requests were not invented by Laing, but provided by users. All boxes parameters, etc where same provided by users.
If you want to see improvements in powering area, clearly express that you want to see.

Without the lemo already included, you need to get a d-tap to lemo cable (which isn't ideal as its ~70Wh draw max, and the camera is at least 60 so powering the monitor from the ab/v-mount would be sketchy if it's even possible given that the d-tap would be used to power the camera). Conversely, the power cable would cost more if you needed more than one lemo connector (e.g. an extension cable that has a female 6-pin on one end and a male 6-pin on the other...) Each lemo connector is at least $40 and not easy to solder.
Click to expand...

Cable will be provided for people who'll request it.

Is it possible to provide references for your cited power numbers (connectors and cameras)?

Also want to ask to provide your specific requests that are clear. For members who constantly use Red products many things are obvious, but they are not so obvious for steadicam manufacturer.

In other words, you'd still have to fend for yourself when it comes to powering the camera (and monitor), and it's not like the cable will cost $10.
Click to expand...

Right now it is speculation.
 
It would be very very convenient and important in my mind to have an easy and out of the box solution that comes with this rig for having a properly run power cable from the plate to the top of the sled for a Red DSMC (Scarlet/Epic) camera. I really don't want to be messing around with all of the extra adapters and cables unnecessarily if I go with this rig.
Click to expand...

This is the goal for optional set, to have all included, boxes and cables. And this is why it is important to understand real requirement here.
 
Vitaliy, here is a quick photoshop job of what we mean by angle indication on the tilt plate and a simple cost effective solution for them. Basically a small metal plate with an arrow sitting under the tilt plate with the angle indicators on the tilt plate itself. (angles in picture not accurate)
 
Vitaliy, here is a quick photoshop job of what we mean by angle indication on the tilt plate and a simple cost effective solution for them.
Click to expand...

Generally it is that I meant, as it requires not only markings but also some reference pointer.

Thanks for your work.

In reality, as I said, you have horizontal bubble level to set head horizontally.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top