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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

CAME HMI GROUP BUY

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I would've interested in 2 of them. Also make sure they come in U.S compatible plugs (3 prongs) for american customers...the default seems to be a default 2 prong euro style.
And has Anyone considered contacting cool lights for a group buy as well?
 
Maz Mawlawi said:
I would've interested in 2 of them. Also make sure they come in U.S compatible plugs (3 prongs) for american customers...the default seems to be a default 2 prong euro style.
And has Anyone considered contacting cool lights for a group buy as well?
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These seem intriguing, and there is interest. Any comparative reports on just how hot do they get with the replacement lamps? Any reports , from sound operators, with the replacement lamps? Are these lights UL (Underwriters Laboratories) approved? The above links has, what appear to be a typo regarding voltage, at any rate:

"Specifications:
Source type: HMI lamp ,
Lamp base G38
Power: 1200w HMI
Color temperature: 5600k
Ballast: Dimmable EB Ballast
Barndoor: 245mm
Lens diameter: 175mm Fresnel
Protection: IP23
Packages weight 23kilo
Viltage: 100v-250v"

Thank you very much

Fury
 
Oje Unuigboje said:
Jay,

I will take two of the 1200s and two of the 575s. Pricing with no bulbs will make it a batter deal still. Looking forward to seeing the pricing with no bulbs.

Anyone has a link to where we can buy the bulbs ? Bulbs that operate at 240 volts, mains. I would like to get the replacements straight away.

Thanks,
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These 1200W bulbs operate at AC 100Volts and have to be driven by a specific ballast, either magnetic, which means they will operate at local line frequency or via an electronic ballast. The electronic ballasts provide a square wave AC output that makes the light flickerfree but more noisy. A good ballast will let you choose between "low noise" and flickerfree operation. Flickerfree operation usually runs at 300Hz, there are high speed models than run at 1000Hz.
While quality HMI´s usually perform smooth there still might be some flicker caused by an unstable arc in the bulb itself. The 1200W SE bulb is hot restrike, but naturally it has be be ignited with the proper high voltage which is required for a HR. If these lights are not HR that means they have a lower ignition voltage that may start a quality bulb which is hot but won´t guarantee this function.
I do not know this specific brand but what I take from this thread is that you are supposed to get what you pay for. Arri, broncolor, jokers are in another ballpark.
You get the bulbs from different manufacturers, e.G. Sylvania / Osram / Philips / GE. My experience is Sylvania and Philips are working best for the sound guys. HTH.

Cheers

Ulf
 
Jay A. Kelley said:
Matt joey tells me if you upgrade the bulb it will be hot strike. Do you concur?

Jay
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The hot restrike capability has more to do with the ballast than the bulb. The typical ignition voltage for the bulb is about 1 to 5Kv. When the bulb is hot it builds a lot of pressure and the threshold for ignition becomes much higher. Ballasts with hot restrike capabilities can provide a much higher ignition voltage in order to overcome this threshold when the bulb is hot. Hot restrikes can shorten the lifespan of your bulb even if your ballast has this capability, so it's probably better to let it cool anyway.
 
Noel R. said:
Snip
Hot restrikes can shorten the lifespan of your bulb even if your ballast has this capability, so it's probably better to let it cool anyway.
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?? This is the first time I hear of such. AFAIK the worst condition for the bulb is the startup period from cold until it reaches its working temperature. A good designed electronic ballast will shorten this period through providing more current flow without exceeding a microprocessor programmed wattage for a specific lamp. During this process you will not be able to dim the lamp as this is not desired (this curcuit is switched off during startup). Voltage, current flow and the resulting wattage is monitored - whenever the bulb runs out of its specifications the ballast will turn in fault mode. (All this applies at least for the major german brands like BS(Arri), broncolor/Kobold and probably at lot more) By far the worst thing you could do is to interrupt a runnig startup process, do this only only in emergency. In general you are adviced to just keep the lights running / not switch them off during short breaks as any startup process is not good for the lamplife.
You are right on the higher voltages to initiate the current flow like I already pointed out, but this is more a matter of isolation (e.g. 575WSE HR uses the G38 Base while the non HR version is plugged into G22 Base) Obviously all other electrical connections need to be designed for the higher voltage as well and you have to provide a proper grounding of the unit.

Cheers

Ulf
 
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Okay guys more information. Joey is offering another price for those of you who do NOT want his bulbs included.

1034 for 1.2kw
712 for 575w

Frankly I did not expect him to lower the price here since h most likely pays almost nothing for the bulbs, but it's clear he is doing everything he can..

Jay
 
Awesome! How do we go about ordering? I'm interested in 2 of each with bulbs.

Edit: For USA. Will these work out of the box or will we need any adapters? Ballast is 110v capable (US), just wondering about the physical plug.

Does it include the roadcase?
 
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Really would perfer to have a case also. and group buy for bulbs makes it easier.What do these mount to? See a bracket in the photo, not sure.
 
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