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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

BIG PROBLEMS WITH PICTURE QUALITY.......

There's nothing wrong with your images at all. I'd say the only thing is that your reference material is a much different vibe and color grade/style than what you're doing. If you want that milky, washed out film look like some of your examples, you have to grade for that.
 
Zack McTee said:
There's nothing wrong with your images at all. I'd say the only thing is that your reference material is a much different vibe and color grade/style than what you're doing. If you want that milky, washed out film look like some of your examples, you have to grade for that.
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agreed.

I think you are also being drawn into the stories by the filmakers. Your 3 shots could go straight into all of the pieces, you just need to grade to match. Also, the film examples also do a generally good job of using light in an interesting way and a fairly heavy handed desat/low con grade applied to the 1st 2 and a pretty high con/high saturated grade to the last example.

Maybe you feel your footage looks DSLR'ish because you did exactly what you do when you shoot on a DSLR. No lighting and fully open up your lens....but if you put it side by side you would see the difference hands down. I just did a shoot for a client that wanted DSLR (Nikon D800) and Epic footy of the same scenes...it made the DSLR look like a chump...it was actually pretty enlightening for me because I rarely see the same scenes 1st hand shot by each camera. Usaully I am fairly pleased with the DSLR footage, but side by side I was very shocked by the lack of detail and color information that the DSLR had.

Your R3d is your negative, if you expose properly you can than get an incredibly malleable canvas to go and f the image up as much as you want.

It's to bad the title of this thread is named what it is...

-dane
 
Make sure you're viewing at 1/4 or 1/2 or full res in RCX... 1/8 res (which is default) looks like DSLR footage. Your renders look about right for vimeo video... maybe need a little unsharp mask or sharper lenses, but, yeah, that's pretty much what to expect.

If you want the "cinematic look" you're still going to have to light like a "cinematic look."
 
This might be of some help and won't take too long to watch (and it's free). My friend Denver Riddle has some quick color grading tutorials for Final Cut Pro X, but the principles are universal.

FCPX Color Grading Tutorials

After you watch these and see how he works with each image, you will have a better understanding of your tasks to achieve the looks you want.

The key is to start with 2 steps (and 2 color passes). The first is to correct the image, exposing for focus and setting contrast. The second is to add a color grade. A lot of people want to do this as 1 pass. It really needs to be 2 because correction and grading are separate.

Hope this helps.

—DC
 
Lenses are key

Lenses are key

Mr. Koo uses vintage canon k35 prime lenses and shoots straight in to the sun to achieve most of his washed out look. Modern lenses use coatings to minimize flairing, get some some glass from the 70s or before.
 
Ershov, why did you set the ISO to 250? Did you lower the ISO instead of adding ND? That won't work well...
 
Ershov Kirill said:
why?
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You will over expose the image. ISO is just metadata. It's not like changing to a slow speed film stock. Regardless of your ISO settings the amount of light hitting the sensor will be the same. To decrease the light hitting the sensor you can either add ND (ideal) or change the shutter angle (very stylized look).

RED suggests keeping the ISO set at 800.

This may explain why you are not pleased with the results you have been getting.
 
Gunleik Groven said:
http://www.gunleik.com/red/r3d.zip

And there are some contrast challenges... But how do you want them to look?
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well its my firs RED test so of course there are different locations but i jus want to get maximum near look to that 3 vimeo files i loaded before....

something that will prove that it is not dslr footage)

REALLY THANX TO EVERYBODY FOR ME IT IS VERY IMPORTANT MAYBY MY PROBLEMS SEEM TO BE STRANGE BUT I WANT TO LEARN EVERYTHING)
 
Brandon J.F. said:
You will over expose the image. ISO is just metadata. It's not like changing to a slow speed film stock. Regardless of your ISO settings the amount of light hitting the sensor will be the same. To decrease the light hitting the sensor you can either add ND (ideal) or change the shutter angle (very stylized look).

RED suggests keeping the ISO set at 800.

This may explain why you are not pleased with the results you have been getting.
Click to expand...

thnx for info i really didnt know it)
 
Ershov Kirill said:
REALLY THANX TO EVERYBODY FOR ME IT IS VERY IMPORTANT MAYBY MY PROBLEMS SEEM TO BE STRANGE BUT I WANT TO LEARN EVERYTHING)
Click to expand...

Definitely check out the links Gunleik sent. They will be a big help to you.

Here's my quick grade... :)

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Who's next?
 

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I pushed the contrast pretty hard on these. I did what I might do for an urban music video. It's hard to get really good stylized color out of RCX, but for basic style these are fun!











 
Another extreme... :)

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