BEST OLPF CHOICE AND SETTINGS FOR GREEN SCREEN WORK

[Jason George]

Hi there, I shoot a fair amount of green screen jobs and was wondering if any other Weapon Dragon shooters have recommendations on optimal OLPF and camera settings for shooting green screen.
In studio I commonly use low light OLPF but find I need to add a significant amount of saturation to get the green to a rich level which I prefer not to do for skin tones. Many thanks.
JG

 

[Marcus Friedlander]

Standard olpf is probably your best bet. And at around 500-640 ISO.

 

[Michael Tiemann]

I just did a green screen project with STD OLPF. Shot at 60fps/180 degree shutter. Very clean due to little motion blur. You could shoot 96fps/360 degree, summing first and second and tossing 3rd and 4th to get smooth 24fps / 180 degree shutter, effectively, with 1/4 the usual green motion blur.

 

[Marcus Struzina]

Hi Michael, something I'm missing in understanding the idea of shooting 96fps/360 degrees and summing the first 2 frames and dropping 3&4, could you explain further how this ends up having a different amount of motion blur then shooting 24 fps/180 degrees ? Are you doing this in something like the Tessive Time shaper software?

 

[Michael Tiemann]

Hi Michael, something I'm missing in understanding the idea of shooting 96fps/360 degrees and summing the first 2 frames and dropping 3&4, could you explain further how this ends up having a different amount of motion blur then shooting 24 fps/180 degrees ? Are you doing this in something like the Tessive Time shaper software?

You would have to ask! And I have to confess that I've thought about doing this, but have not done it. The theory is that if you shoot at 1/96th of a second, you'll have half as much motion blur in each frame as if you shot at 1/48th of a second. That might be small enough that you can afford to be pretty aggressive about how you pull your key. Summing together two very clean stills should give you a clean, properly blurred still. I can say that when I looked at my 1/120th of a second stills, the key was amazingly clean even when hands were gesticulating at full speed, so I'm thinking that 1/96th is good enough.

I know that at 1/48th of a second, all kinds of body movements start to blur (at the pixel-peeping level). And having twice as much ground to cover, suddenly the compromises that seemed easy to make with less blur suddenly become more daunting. But again, I haven't actually tried, and perhaps there will be a fine double green line that's devilishly difficult to remove. I *think* I know how to avoid it, but I haven't done it, so cannot prove it.

 

[Jason George]

Thanks for the replies- what colour spaces do you find are optimal, and how about metadata settings ?
Thx

 

[Jason George]

I find under tungsten lighting that there is a compromise between acceptable exposure time (shutter speed) and depth of field, depending on the movement of the camera and talent- I like to give the focus puller a bit of stop but also the FX DEPT some crisp images.
I am curious about the monitored image and colours reflecting accurately those on the set.
Thanks.

 

[Michael Tiemann]

RWG and Log3G10 are brilliant for green screen...and everything else.

 

[Eric Oh]

Hey Jason,

Shot lots of green screen with Dragon sensor... STD OLPF, 90 degree shutter to reduce motion blur and get good edge sharpness. Sometimes I’ve shot at 45 degree and if they need motion blur to match BG, they will add it in post. Sharp edges gives them a good key. Also, when recreating daylight, I made sure my luminance levels were high enough (minimum of 55-60 IRE on a waveform). In fact, with my lighting plan, there’s enough ambience and soft wrap around light that I don’t need to light the green. Did that a few months ago with a 30’ x 20’ green screen.