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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Best ND Filter Set In 2018

I have the Firecrests from a group buy a few years ago. They’ve been fantastic additions to my kit, but one or two of mine shift a bit towards magenta. I can’t say they’re perfect. Definitely going to look into these new Tokina ones.
 
Based on Phil's suggestion I am going to go with the Tokina Pro IRND.

Breakthrough and PolarPro's are not a complete set and do not cover my largest 95mm lens.

They should be a huge upgrade to my Tiffen Shane Hurlbut White Water ND set I bought years ago.
 
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Vance Colvig said:
Very pleased with Nisi Nano IRNDs. No detectable color shift on Dragon or Helium.
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+1 for these.. I have these and a couple sets of Firecrest – super happy with both. It's nice that Firecrest come in a wide range of screw-in sizes all the way down to DJI X7 size. Funny aside though, I bought the NISI from B&H and they arrived pretty hazy and dusty (they looked used).. which was weird, but they cleaned up well and the friendly folks at NISI said they'd follow up with B&H
 
Kippertie Revolva

Kippertie Revolva

I've been using the Revolva ND mount for several weeks now and I can't imagine going back to the faff of either vari ND or fixed ND. For those that don't know it, it's a filtration mount that hold an ND filter cartridge with four NDS. Very well made piece of kit!
 
So do we still need ir for nd filters for helium?
Im intrested in NiSi HUC Pro Nano IR ND64 ND-filter and C-PL 77mm.
A side note. In the explanation of it it says nothing about ir filter but the name suggests that it is.
 
I have a set of the Tiffen NATural ND. Utterly fantastic, especially for VFX comping where multiple layers are being used. The difference between an empty matte box and a 2.1 - negligible
 
darren scott said:
For anyone that knows... which are more colour neutral...the Tokinas or Nisi?
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Whatever the answer to that question, it doesn't matter as much as it is so often made out to matter. That's mostly just filter-cultism.

I know that doesn't answer your specific question. But either one will serve you just fine and the differences are so negligible as to not be concerned with. Any response you receive recommending one of the other is likely to be influenced by things such as brand-name that having nothing to do with the performance of the filter.
 
John David Pope said:
Whatever the answer to that question, it doesn't matter as much as it is so often made out to matter. That's mostly just filter-cultism.

I know that doesn't answer your specific question. But either one will serve you just fine and the differences are so negligible as to not be concerned with. Any response you receive recommending one of the other is likely to be influenced by things such as brand-name that having nothing to do with the performance of the filter.
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Completely agree and I have both Tokina IRND and Nisi IRND. I have 4 Tokina thread ons for some lenses and 4 4x5.65 Nisi IRNDs for matte box. No noticeable color shift on either and extremely easy to use both on a single shoot without any issues.

I am sure you could do some testing and be extremely gratified that you now know which one is every so slightly more neutral, but unless you are extremely lazy and don't planning on doing any color grading it definitely won't matter.
 
I compared FireCrest and Nisi, ended up with Nisi. I couldn't tell a difference and the price was enough. I tried both the 2mm FireCrest and the 4mm. The 2mm is too thin for a matt box like the Atom which uses a flexible stub to hold filters in place - the 2mm flex a bit.

I'm not sure in this day and age whether there is *that* much difference between all the brands really...

cheers
Paul
 
Hello Phil how are you bro? I used to use "Variable ND" when I am doing small gigs that require quick adjustments and is fine but that kinda gig. Now for the real deal, when you use ND with stops, the slight minor adjustment left, if you want to maintain a certain F Stop, how do you go by that? Adjusting the exposure, iso and or flut in camera?

Just wondering how you do it...


Thanks :)
 
Alain M said:
Hello Phil how are you bro? I used to use "Variable ND" when I am doing small gigs that require quick adjustments and is fine but that kinda gig. Now for the real deal, when you use ND with stops, the slight minor adjustment left, if you want to maintain a certain F Stop, how do you go by that? Adjusting the exposure, iso and or flut in camera?

Just wondering how you do it...


Thanks :)
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There are 1/2 stop NDs, but that's usually not worth the effort. I mainly 99.9% of the time am using full stop NDs. Mostly in the .3-1.8 range, though I do keep in my kit up to 3.0 densities. Basically a 1-10 stop range. I use mostly 4x5.65" filters, occasionally screw-on filters.

By adjusting your ISO, FLUT, or Exposure Adjustment you aren't changing the light coming into the camera, so for instance not protecting against clipping or anything.

Beyond that, controlling the lighting helps on set or even outside.

Most of the time I work at a consistent ISO, like I choose 400 or 800 or whatever. Then light and expose to that. I treat RED nearly exactly like working with motion picture film. In controlled environments like a closed set, you'll notice in my BTS pictures I rarely have ND on camera if I can avoid it as I can control the lighting these days extremely precisely. Sometimes I'll overlight a bit and go the other way around if I'm dealing with natural light and windows, even still, there's opportunities to dial that down near the source. Just depends.
 
Phil Holland said:
There are 1/2 stop NDs, but that's usually not worth the effort. I mainly 99.9% of the time am using full stop NDs. Mostly in the .3-1.8 range, though I do keep in my kit up to 3.0 densities. Basically a 1-10 stop range. I use mostly 4x5.65" filters, occasionally screw-on filters.

By adjusting your ISO, FLUT, or Exposure Adjustment you aren't changing the light coming into the camera, so for instance not protecting against clipping or anything.

Beyond that, controlling the lighting helps on set or even outside.

Most of the time I work at a consistent ISO, like I choose 400 or 800 or whatever. Then light and expose to that. I treat RED nearly exactly like working with motion picture film. In controlled environments like a closed set, you'll notice in my BTS pictures I rarely have ND on camera if I can avoid it as I can control the lighting these days extremely precisely. Sometimes I'll overlight a bit and go the other way around if I'm dealing with natural light and windows, even still, there's opportunities to dial that down near the source. Just depends.
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Just wanted to say thanks for the recommendation on the Tokina IRNDs. I got a small set of the screw on variants for my Sigma Art lenses and they are perfect. Obviously it will depend on each particular lens, but is there any reason to avoid stacking up screw on filters? I didn't notice anything too out of the ordinary when doing some basic testing with this but just wondering if it might create some strange artifacts in some situations?
 
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