Backlash and new tripod thoughts

[AndreasOberg]

I just recieved my Epic and Sachtler Video 20 S1.

I'm testing for difficult camera movements with my RPP 300mm with maximum magnifications.
Should it be possible to pan left/right and then slowly stop and let go of the head handle? Or am I'm doing it wrong. Should I just stay with a firm grip on the handle?
When I do that the head will move back with about 10 pixels in full 5k resolution. 10 pixels is way too much to be used I think.

The only way I managed to get rid of it is by holding my hand sturdy on the handle all the time because if I would let go then it would swing back a bit. This is the first time I use a tripod and camera of this caliber so maybe I'm doing it completely wrong or I have too high expectations.
However I know that the Sachtler is built from some kind of "bands" inside the head while the OConnor uses oil fluid and I can imagine that when you stop the fluids could balance it out while the "rubber" bands will of course not do this.

Any thoughts are welcome, remember I'm new so I'm not at all trying to critisize Sachtler, I'm probably just doing it wrong.
Thanks
/Andreas

 

[ericyoung]

I think you are expecting too much. 10pixels at 5K at 300mm is pretty small backlash, especially if you are punching in 1:1 pixel magnification! While an O'Connor might be slightly better at a higher price, I'd be quite happy with that performance.

The Sachtler Video 20 S1 is a true fluid head, like the film style O'Connor heads, although the exact design will obviously have some differences.

But remember it's basically impossible to have absolutely zero backlash on a tripod with a fluid head, as any leg system must have some twist if any pan torque is applied - it's just physics. The heavier duty and better built legs will have less, but there will always be some. You can reduce it by using minimum pan drag/friction, while still just enough to perform a smooth pan.

In the end, you may just have to stay on the handle at the end until you cut the camera.

IF effectively zero backlash on a tripod is required, then a geared head will probably be the answer, as that does not apply pan torque.

 

[Jeff Whitehurst]

Eric is right that keeping the drag set as low as possible helps to prevent binding and leg torque. I am in the habit of not letting go of the handle at the end of the pan, seems like that's your solution. You can also try a rubber band hooked on the pan handle and use it to pull the move, which dampens the move and has a very organic feel to it. Works with pans, tilts or both at the same time. You can either just pull the band, or hold the pan handle while preloading the band and then letting it go. With practice I have learned to hit a mark consistently even in high winds or cold. I've using this technique to follow birds in the trees at 400mm lately, and it allows me to have multiple changes in movement during the shot and keep the backlash with each change in direction minimal. Try different band lengths/thicknesses, long and thin seems to work better to me when shooting at long focal lengths.

 

[AndreasOberg]

Good to hear that everything seems to be in order guys. The tripod is very nice, very very sturdy and fairly light for the strength it provides.
I was experimenting into the late night and found that I could move the head smothly if I was very careful with my hand and didn't let go in the end.
I could also move it smoother if the drag wasn't so high.
Haha, I used rubber bands before on my cheap tripod, I guess it could work here as well, but it would need to be a STRONG rubber band

Any other tips for operating or training etc? I personally find it's very useful to put a big zoom on and then just practice at maximum magnification to pan pan pan every day. I even put the camera in the kitchen to practice while eating

Any advice is more than welcome.
/Andreas

 

[Phil Holland]

I was demoing for Libec how I practice and test heads a few months ago. I tape up white sheets off paper on a wall at various locations to form "barriers". Then I try to hit the invisible marks and not allow the edges of the paper show on my moves. Adjusting the resistance in combination with this gives you a pretty good feel of what the limitations are with the fluid head as well.

I find trees good to practice on with longer lenses. Following branches and "tracing" them is nice.

Been doing it for years.

 

[Jeff Kieffer]

When panning with longer lenses, I tend to reduce the drag and grip the head instead of the handlebar.
That way, there will be less backlash when releasing the grip at the end of the pan.