Anyone has a Lean & Mean Red ONE I can copy the config?

[CocoBermudez]

I've been looking around the forum but I can't seem to find anyone with a lean version of a RED ONE.

After purchasing the Canon 5d MKII and Canon 7d and using to create for the last couple of months, I have decided to finally purchase my first RED ONE. Nope nothing bad about those two models...I like them a lot...but time to move to the next level.

I was wonderin...anyone has a lean version of the RED ONE? I want to travel with it and treat it the same way as I have treated my Canons. Light, move fast and quick Nikon lens changes...dump to my computer and then keep on shooting.

Can anyone point me in the right way...I did call RED customer service and sent them an email....but while I wait over the happy turkey day, I want to finalize my list. I have about 25k to 28k to plunk down...

Again, I need light, light, light....


Am I missing anything here on my list?

RED ONE (BODY ONLY) Price: $17,500.00
BASE PRODUCTION PACK Price: $1,250.00
REDFLASH (CF) MODULE Price: $500
RED LCD (5.6 in) Price: $1,700
RED POWER PACK Price: $1,450
16GB CF CARDS (4-pack) Price: $1,400
NIKON MOUNT Price: $500
RED Cap Price: $30 got to have one!

 

[David Adamic]

I don't have a RED so take this for what it is or isn't worth.

The changes I'd make to the config you listed, instead of RED's Nikon mount, maybe splurge and get a prolock (250-350 more). I'm sure its not lighter but it makes the camera more versatile.

Also, from the Red shoots I've been to, you're gonna want some more batteries. Maybe buy the 4 pack of Batteries and a charger.

P.S. I love your attitude, I really like my Canon 5d Mk II too but soon it'll be time to go to a RED.

 

[Julio Quintana]

If you want it to be as light as possible, you need to buy the Red Quickplate (http://www.red.com/store/110-0032), and a second Top Mount (http://www.red.com/store/110-0035) to attach your batteries. Buy two 12" Carbon Fiber rods for the top (http://www.red.com/store/645-0007).

And since you aren't getting a RED Drive, you don't need to use the Red Cradle, Bottom Plate, or Shoulder Dovetail. Instead, I would buy the ALLSTAR shoulder pad (http://allstar-cine.myweb.hinet.net/). It mounts directly to the bottom of the camera body.
Then you need to get the Long Valley Rod Support (http://longvalleyequip.com/rodsupport.php).

That's about as light as I can think of.

 

[CocoBermudez]

If you want it to be as light as possible, you need to buy the Red Quickplate (http://www.red.com/store/110-0032), and a second Top Mount (http://www.red.com/store/110-0035) to attach your batteries. Buy two 12" Carbon Fiber rods for the top (http://www.red.com/store/645-0007).

And since you aren't getting a RED Drive, you don't need to use the Red Cradle, Bottom Plate, or Shoulder Dovetail. Instead, I would buy the ALLSTAR shoulder pad (http://allstar-cine.myweb.hinet.net/). It mounts directly to the bottom of the camera body.
Then you need to get the Long Valley Rod Support (http://longvalleyequip.com/rodsupport.php).

That's about as light as I can think of.

Awesome stuff....I think I will be able to save myself a little dinero..enought to add the T-Shirt

 

[Shane Kelly]

forget the red nikon mount, get the optitek one, it's way superior.
I would also go element technica for the top mounts @ 15mm, then an ET battery mount and Et lightweight rods.
I personally use the ET mantis for handheld work but for lightweight I'd use the red handles and a foam pad with a velcro strip on it. The foam kneepad that you can get for gardening works well for this. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YTVJA/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001JEOH5A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SQFS1Y4T9BCCB2T1G0C
but the allstar gear looks pretty good as well.
I'd also dump the red arm and go with with ultralight http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bin/nsearch?query=ultralight&catalog=cinemasupplies&go.x=0&go.y=0
this will allow you to get the lcd out as far in front of you face as you need.

In short, forget the production pack.

 

[rod bradley]

Good advice given. Yes, the Prolock mount is way superior to the Red mount. You might want to use the battery belt setup to get the battery weight off the camera. Even configured this way, it is heavy -- way beyond the DSLRs -- way way beyond.

There are other battery options as well that some people are happier with. So you might want to investigate that.

The Allstar Dovetail and shoulder mount is excellent -- and the dovetail married with an Oconnor 1030 is about as light a tripod solution as you'll find, if you plan on going tripod at times.

But I'd say, in no way believe it's going to be like handling your Canons. But the results will be worth it (with the possible exception of extreme low-light situations.)

Good luck.

 

[CocoBermudez]

forget the red nikon mount, get the optitek one, it's way superior.

Do I have to do this modification myself? Is it hard to put it on..any danger with screwing the cam?

 

[David Adamic]

In case it's not clear, Optitek makes the Prolock. I first heard about it from a post of Shane's. If I'm correct, the beauty of it is that you don't have to remove the PL mount to use it. Thus making your camera more versatile because you can use Nikon or PL mount lenses quickly without a time consuming mount change.

 

[CocoBermudez]

what does it go for?

 

[Zakaree Sandberg]

I just got my prolock... You DO remove the PL mount.. its just like reds nikon mount except 100 times better.. it will lock the lens in place (lens wont move like it does with red nikon mount) also, You can use lenses that dont have iris control.

 

[Zakaree Sandberg]

all you need to buy from RED is..
RED ONE (BODY ONLY) Price: $17,500.00
REDFLASH (CF) MODULE Price: $500
RED LCD (5.6 in) Price: $1,700 (however.. if you can step it up, I would go with the 7'')
RED POWER PACK Price: $1,450
16GB CF CARDS (4-pack) Price: $1,400
RED Cap Price: $30 got to have one! (really nerdy, might have been cool in early 07 but ok...)

For support, go with Element Technica, I have all of their goodies (except for red drive stuff.. Havent tried it out, but heard its good.. once i get extra cash ill buy)

Your going to need a good follow focus.. check out the mff-1
You can use screw filters for your nikon lenses.. you will save money, and wont need a mattebox.

then you will need a good fluid head, and find your self a good pair of lightweight carbon fiber legs.

 

[David Adamic]

Zakaree, thanks for the correction, I thought the PL stayed on.

 

[Brian Ferguson]

The lightest rig I ever saw was a Red One body with a LCD on a arm mounted to a single Top Mount with a Top Handle and the battery belt clip into a back-pack. It was with a PL mount and it was a test for a feature film. They even put a Preston follow focus remote on the lens and put the receiver in the back-pack and powered it off of the D-Tap on the battery plate. Small, mobile & light weight. If you needed filters you could use a clip on matte box like an Arri LMB-5 designed for StediCam rigs, or a 138 mm round clip on filter holder.

 

[hdcrew]

I just got the Pro-lok, works very well so I've also gone with ET's 15mm lightweight support and an Arri MFF-1/MMB-1 for a documentary project I'm about to start shooting.

Bunch of compact 2.8 Nikon zooms

I only use the the LCD (sold the EVF because I very rarely used it)

I power the camera from a battery in my rucksack to keep the camera weight down.

When using the drives I use this:

http://actionproducts.ch/product_info.php?cPath=48_23_54&products_id=42

It's very simple and lightweight and about as lean as I can get it.

 

[Peter Majtan]

Since You have the 5D and 7D - I can only assume You have some EF glass from Canon. Why don't You consider the Birger mount? Not only it will control the iris & focus of the canon lenses - it also offers (in partnership with ViewFactor) a lightweight wired/wireless followfocus solution. On top of that You can easily mount Nikon glass to it via $20 USD adapter...

As far as the RED goes - I use two lightweight configurations, one for aerial and motion cinematography and the other for remote locations. The basic You will need:

- RED ONE body
- CF module
- 4x 16GB CF pack
- Birger or any of the Nikon mounts
- Battery 6-pack
- IDX 4-post simultaneous charger
- Battery Belt Clip
- RED LCD (either of the two, but would go with the "PRO" if You can squeeze the money)
- RED Arm (pick either the 9" or 5")
- RED LCD cable 2'

The AllStar rig is great BTW...

This is just on top of my head, I will add more later...

:devil: Peter

 

[Alexander Ibrahim]

LCD's for a lightweight rig

LCD's for a lightweight rig

I am thinking of replacing my RED 5.6 LCD with either the

SmallHD DP1

or the

Manhattan LCD

Both units give you a 1280x720p display, and they'll save you a bundle compared to the RED LCD.

Both offer 500:1 contrast ratio. The RED 7" is 400:1, the 5.6" is 250:1.

Neutral point, both the units I linked are 8.9inches. The larger size can be a boon, or a bane. Depends on your particular circumstances. I like being able to get further away from the LCD and maintain a good image size- especially on steadicam and the like.

The downsides:

They both also require you to make your own power arrangements. The DP1 includes some lightweight batteries, and the model of the Manhattan I linked has a mount for Canon prosumer cam batteries. That seems fine to me, but it does suck compared to one cable for the RED monitors.

They use HDMI, so your connection will be less secure. The Manhattan offers a model with an SDI option built in, its around $1300 and doesn't include a battery plate.

The RED LCD's are brighter. The RED 5.6" is 550cd/m^2 compared to 250cd/m^2 for the manhattan and 300cd/m^2 for the DP1.

I don't know the weight of the RED LCD's, but the weight of the Manhattan LCD is 1.8lbs and the DP1 weighs 1.6lbs.

Regarding LCD brightness... my feeling is that less than 800cd/m^2 isn't satisfactory in daylight, and I don't feel discriminating between 550 and 250 is worthwhile. In my opinion they both need hoods. In controlled lighting, I am more concerned with contrast ratio's than absolute light levels.

There may be other great options out there, but for now these are the best value I've found

Another note, unless money is super critical, get an EVF. Even if it stays off the rig a lot get one. There are times, especially outside, that you just need to get into the eyepiece and block other stuff out. To me its one of those things you'd rather have and not need, than need and not have.

 

[Reed Phillips]

...
They both also require you to make your own power arrangements. The DP1 includes some lightweight batteries, and the model of the Manhattan I linked has a mount for Canon prosumer cam batteries. That seems fine to me, but it does suck compared to one cable for the RED monitors.

There is this option.
http://www.smallhd.com/blog/dp1-compatible-with-red-battery-plate/
It may not be ideal, but it is an option.

You are correct about the need for a sun hood for all the monitors you mentioned. Ideally you need a hood like the hoodman or smallhd that completely surrounds the screen. Surrounding a screen in black also creates a physiological effect that makes the screen image appear brighter.

-reed

 

[Damien Molineaux]

I would strongly recommend to stay with the Red LCD, it is ultra light weight, high quality, powered by the cam, and shows you all the menus of the camera. I haven't seen anything that can beat it for a Red One.

Additionnaly Optitek advertise on their website a Red One Camera LCD Clip-on finder (not yet available, but hopefully sometime soon), which can turn your LCD into pretty much the ultimate viewfinder. I tested a protoype from Actionproducts, they have alas abandonned that project and I have been waiting for Optitek to make theirs available. If others are interested by this product, please let Optitek know there is a demand. This really makes for a great viewfinder, maybe even superior to the Red viewfiner, and way lighter.

Cheers,
Damien

(aka, earthling)

I am thinking of replacing my RED 5.6 LCD with either the

SmallHD DP1

or the

Manhattan LCD

Both units give you a 1280x720p display, and they'll save you a bundle compared to the RED LCD.

Both offer 500:1 contrast ratio. The RED 7" is 400:1, the 5.6" is 250:1.

Neutral point, both the units I linked are 8.9inches. The larger size can be a boon, or a bane. Depends on your particular circumstances. I like being able to get further away from the LCD and maintain a good image size- especially on steadicam and the like.

The downsides:

They both also require you to make your own power arrangements. The DP1 includes some lightweight batteries, and the model of the Manhattan I linked has a mount for Canon prosumer cam batteries. That seems fine to me, but it does suck compared to one cable for the RED monitors.

They use HDMI, so your connection will be less secure. The Manhattan offers a model with an SDI option built in, its around $1300 and doesn't include a battery plate.

The RED LCD's are brighter. The RED 5.6" is 550cd/m^2 compared to 250cd/m^2 for the manhattan and 300cd/m^2 for the DP1.

I don't know the weight of the RED LCD's, but the weight of the Manhattan LCD is 1.8lbs and the DP1 weighs 1.6lbs.

Regarding LCD brightness... my feeling is that less than 800cd/m^2 isn't satisfactory in daylight, and I don't feel discriminating between 550 and 250 is worthwhile. In my opinion they both need hoods. In controlled lighting, I am more concerned with contrast ratio's than absolute light levels.

There may be other great options out there, but for now these are the best value I've found

Another note, unless money is super critical, get an EVF. Even if it stays off the rig a lot get one. There are times, especially outside, that you just need to get into the eyepiece and block other stuff out. To me its one of those things you'd rather have and not need, than need and not have.

 

[ericyoung]

Since You have the 5D and 7D - I can only assume You have some EF glass from Canon. Why don't You consider the Birger mount? Not only it will control the iris & focus of the canon lenses - it also offers (in partnership with ViewFactor) a lightweight wired/wireless followfocus solution. On top of that You can easily mount Nikon glass to it via $20 USD adapter...Peter

Just one caveat, as of 19 Nov, you can no longer replace the RED PL mount with a Birger mount without voiding the RED warranty. It's not retrospective fortunately for existing Birger mount users who went through the certification process.

See:
http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?p=512681#post512681

:-(

 

[CocoBermudez]

Just one caveat, as of 19 Nov, you can no longer replace the RED PL mount with a Birger mount without voiding the RED warranty. It's not retrospective fortunately for existing Birger mount users who went through the certification process.

See:
http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?p=512681#post512681

:-(

Do you know why is this? When I called Red Sales they mentioned the fact that thye do not support the Birger Mount but they did not have a lot of info...yet I see people using them. Would this also apply to the Optitek or even the other mounts like Panavision etc that I have seen around the net?