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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Any workflow if im using Red on time-lapse for HOLY GRAIL ?

Longyu Chau

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[FONT=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Hi all,

I know about LRTimelapse for DSLR like 5D2,but haven't heard for Red,any suggestion?

Thanks in advice,
Yu[/FONT]​
 
Hi all,

I know about LRTimelapse for DSLR like 5D2,but haven't heard for Red,any suggestion?

Thanks in advice,
Yu
​

There's no need for a different workflow for timelapse on Red versus video. When you shoot timelapse on Red, it creates a .R3D video clip, just like when you take a normal shot of footage. If you know how to work with .R3D footage, then you know how to work with .R3D timelapses. Because they are the same.
 
Hi Nick,

Normally I use LRTimelapse,this is a software for DSLR raw or jpg picture only.Then make a smooth transition for day to night time-lapse.But I have no idea for the video clip.

Thanks
Yu
 
Longyu, you're going to have to use something like After Effects or DaVinci Resolve.

Combine that with shooting in HDR mode and maybe you can do a full holy grail (day -> night) shot? It'll be a little tricky though and require more processing than just working with stills cameras and LRTimelapse.

Bruce Allen
www.boacinema.com
 
Hi Bruce,

Which tools you use in after effect?Could you mind to share your workflow for holy grail time-lapse ?

Really appreciate for your help.

Yu
 
Hi Bruce,

Which tools you use in after effect?Could you mind to share your workflow for holy grail time-lapse ?

Really appreciate for your help.

Yu

Ha! Sadly, my workflow is to use stills cameras :) They are cheap and good for timelapse, especially since you can control them so nicely via USB, they are good in low light and you have good bulb ramping options.

To go from really bright sun to seeing bright stars at night is really tricky. To do it on a RED, I think you'd need something like a motorized iris, or motorized variable ND filter. Even then, RED just isn't that sensitive. You may have to wait for Dragon.

I think that with HDRx mode, a RED should be able to cover a small exposure change if you didn't need a full transition of as many stops.

The main problem will be that a RED is not good in low light and also can't do a lot of bracketing. Only 2 different exposures. It's difficult because the exposure for a holy grail shot changes by so many stops. I'd try set HDRx to a very high setting and see how that works.

Anyway... if you were doing a sunset, I'd set it so that there just enough some detail in the HDRx shot (so one shot is totally overexposed, the other just not clipped).

You'd use that HDRx track in the beginning. Then as the HDRx track starts becoming too dark, slowly blend into the normal track.

The problem is that the normal track will quickly become too dark. What you'll need to do is to start blending and averaging frames in order to reduce noise and increase signal.

Check out a plugin called Neat Video - it's very good for removing noise. Takes a while to render. Temporal Noise reduction averages across frames too, which is what you want.

Those are my quick thoughts. What do you think?

Bruce Allen
www.boacinema.com
 
Thanks for your advice Bruce.I agree with you DSLR is good and cheap so i did it also.
What do you think about the quality of those?(5D2 have 4k quality also in time-lapse,But im using Arri MP lens with Redone and Zeiss zf lens with 5d2.)

Neat Video look great!What different between LR4 and Neat video of your experience in noise reduction?I use Apple Color for noise reduction in always without time-lapse.

Thanks
Yu
 
I used the Red for timelapses quite often. It's very convinient since you can instantly view the timelapse on the camera. I shoot with HDRx, however your timelapses cannot be so long if the sun rises because it will simply become to bright.
/Andreas
 
Anybody know how to animate the R3D metadata, specifically ISO and white balance? This is how LRTimelapse works, but the only way I can think of doing this with R3D is creating an R3D trim for each frame, and using that as an image sequence.
Or it might be more realistic for long shots to write a script using REDline.
 
Anybody know how to animate the R3D metadata, specifically ISO and white balance? This is how LRTimelapse works, but the only way I can think of doing this with R3D is creating an R3D trim for each frame, and using that as an image sequence.
Or it might be more realistic for long shots to write a script using REDline.
In after effects go to linear color space and float for your composition. Then just key brightness, as long as you shoot within histogram they keys will keep the brightness constant. You can do this in a log space but I find it real hard to key the brightness correctly. (when doing this in linear, output it in log when your done)
 
For major shifts in color or exposure, the raw metadata needs to be changed to avoid clipping or excess noise.
As long as it's a metadata only change, when you drop the r3d into AE with linear using float, the AE in memory floating point numbers for color/brightness have enough bits to hold all the data (is expensive on memory and speed). By keying the controls (i.e. multiply color values/brightness, etc), you can keep the screen brightness the same though the r3d is changing. It is hard visually working this way, since the data is in the float and when the float get's converted to 8/10 bit for the screen it will get clipped, but by keying multiplying values you can keep what you want to see in the range where it will not be clipped. In nuke it is a bit easier to do this, for nuke you would output in redcinex in exr 32 bit mode, making sure you don't clip any of the r3d footage in the histogram by just doing a rgb multiply(or just link in the r3d if your using a older r3d type then do the multiply, using the "none" color mode). Then in nuke automate/key the color correction (nuke also works default with a large floating point numbers in ram). This works as long as the original shot data is within the camera histogram.
 
Never knew a day-to-night timelapse was called the "Holy Grail". Learn something new everyday.
 
Red is superior to all known still cameras for time-lapse as you got 360 shutter on red. This makes it possible to vari your exposure times in increments of frames in post which is a huge advantage. Where as still cameras need to disrupt exposure between frames and for that reason they can not get the same coverage... not many know but it's a wonderful thing. See it as where HDRx is "times two" this tecniqe is like "HDRx times infinity".
 
Never knew a day-to-night timelapse was called the "Holy Grail". Learn something new everyday.

because... this is how you feel when you watch what you've got

indiana-jones-holy-grail.jpg


and of course... when you mess it up this happens:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36WEn-9zs1U
 
You could do the blend method of holy grail by shooting two time lapses and blended them in post. The problem is still that epic is not sensitive enough for astro shots. We will have to see how Dragon performs.
 
au contraire... you just gotta do a little magic. 360 degree 1secx16 frame summing in camera combined with frame summing/averaging in post... try it (:

don't forget to BLACK SHADE for current exposure/fps
 
I should..I haven't yet. With Dragon maybe it will be in the sensitivity range of a 5d3 to be able to shoot milky way shots. I'd love to not deal with the post processing of still camera time-lapse shots.

dragon as of right now.. its slowest is 1/8 and frame processing isn't available. Hopefully it will change by release time.
 
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