I'm a huge proponent of FoolControl, and Mikael has done an amazing job at developing the app. That being said, the internal antenna on the DSMC2 cameras ...well, kind of sucks. WC announced a very elegant solution at Cinegear last week, which will be shipping next month for $500. It's on my list of things to pick up when I have more money, but in the meantime I decided to whip up a quick workaround.
Similar to the Lattitude Sidekick module, I designed the Wifi antenna to sandwich between the camera and the DSMC2 side plate. It replaces the internal Wifi antenna, which connects under the plate. Shown in the picture above is a 4" antenna that I had already, however I've since ordered a smaller 2" antenna that should be more suitable.
UPDATE. I have tested the range, and the ad-hoc mode gets around 300-350ft now, and that's with the smaller 2db antenna.
The mod costs a grand total of $16 in parts, and takes under 5 minutes to install. Here's a list of parts, as well as the 3D file in case any one wants to make their own:
1) 3D printed side plate ($10)
2) 2db 2.4ghz antenna ($4 on ebay)
3) 4" (10cm) U.FL cable ($1 on ebay)
4) 4x M3 18mm screws ($1)
File: http://runoutmedia.com/business/red_wifi_3d_v4.zip
The file is designed in MM, intended for 100 microns or smaller. You can get it 3D printed in whatever material you like, but the standard black PLA (plastic) seems quite suitable. I used 3dhubs.com, which allows you to upload the file, and then it will list all the 3d print facilities closest to you, as well as complete the transaction.
Please note that you'll need the right type of antenna/cable to make this work, as there are many different kinds that look the same, but have different intended purposes (see the list above, as well as check on page 3 for further discussion). Obviously I assume no responsibility for whatever modifications you make to your camera, so use at your own risk.
EDIT. As kindly noted by Mikael below, the U.FL connector on the antenna is rather fragile, so just be a little cautious when swapping the new antenna with the internal one (use tweezers or something, rather than yanking on the cable to pull it loose).
I'm a huge proponent of FoolControl, and Mikael has done an amazing job at developing the app. That being said, the internal antenna on the DSMC2 cameras ...well, kind of sucks. WC announced a very elegant solution at Cinegear last week, which will be shipping next month for $500. It's on my list of things to pick up when I have more money, but in the meantime I decided to whip up a quick workaround.
Similar to the Lattitude Sidekick module, I designed the Wifi antenna to sandwich between the camera and the DSMC2 side plate. It replaces the internal Wifi antenna, which connects under the plate. Shown in the picture above is a 4" antenna that I had already, however I've since ordered a smaller 2" antenna that should be more suitable.
UPDATE. I have tested the range, and the ad-hoc mode gets around 300-350ft now, and that's with the smaller 2db antenna.
The mod costs a grand total of $16 in parts, and takes under 5 minutes to install. Here's a list of parts, as well as the 3D file in case any one wants to make their own:
1) 3D printed side plate ($10)
2) 2db 2.4ghz antenna ($4 on ebay)
3) 4" (10cm) U.FL cable ($1 on ebay)
4) 4x M3 18mm screws ($1)
File: http://runoutmedia.com/business/red_wifi_3d_v4.zip
The file is designed in MM, intended for 100 microns or smaller. You can get it 3D printed in whatever material you like, but the standard black PLA (plastic) seems quite suitable. I used 3dhubs.com, which allows you to upload the file, and then it will list all the 3d print facilities closest to you, as well as complete the transaction.
Please note that you'll need the right type of antenna/cable to make this work, as there are many different kinds that look the same, but have different intended purposes (see the list above, as well as check on page 3 for further discussion). Obviously I assume no responsibility for whatever modifications you make to your camera, so use at your own risk.
EDIT. As kindly noted by Mikael below, the U.FL connector on the antenna is rather fragile, so just be a little cautious when swapping the new antenna with the internal one (use tweezers or something, rather than yanking on the cable to pull it loose).
