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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

What filters do you need for Red? A beginners' guide.

strangways said:
I hope you followed along with all of that. But here's the catch:

As far as I know, the RED ONE does not have anything in it's optical system that is affected by the polarization of light. There isn't a semi-polarized mirror in between the exit pupil of the lens and the sensor. A high-pass/infrared filter in front of the sensor won't be affected by polarized light.

Why spend more on the circular polarizer? Probably because the safe bet has seemed to be splurging on the circular just in case. I also find it common for people to believe that "circular" means it's the only one you can rotate to vary the effect. Misinformation, uncertainty, and doubt.

Put it all to rest now. If you're looking to buy a polarizer, get a linear if it'll save you money. In fact, why not, try and find a clean, scratch-free used one?

Granted, I don't own a RED ONE. So if anyone out there wants to actually test it in the real world, please do, and post your results here.
Click to expand...

Great post! I was planning to get a linear pola for these same reasons, but I ended up going with circular because of the auto-focus and optical viewing systems that are coming out.
 
Awesome post. Other explanations about filters are always targeted to people that already know a lot about photography. I loved the way you simplified the purpose of ND filters--I paraphrase, "basically a pair sunglasses for your camer."

I think that a lot of people, many authors of books included, give complicated explanation just to sound intelligent and validate their own knowledge. I truly believe that if you really know something, it can be explained in very simple terms. Richard Feynman, famous particle physicist, is of the same mind. He says that you really don't know something until you can explain it in simple enough terms that anybody can understand.

Thanks for the great post.

Anybody know any books that go into other aspects of photography/cinematography in a similar way to Evin's post?
 
I never used lens filter before.
My question: is it possible to use more than one filter in the same time, and how? Do we need another tool or something..

thanks in advance
 
Another new user question.

Is there a filter set out there that fits onto the lens? I've had these for my DSLR. Right now the only lens I have is the RED 18 - 50. Also, is there just a plain glass one out there so that I have something to protect the glass? I've looked around a bit but can't find anything specific for this lens.

Thanks,
 
mackro said:
Another new user question.

Is there a filter set out there that fits onto the lens? I've had these for my DSLR. Right now the only lens I have is the RED 18 - 50. Also, is there just a plain glass one out there so that I have something to protect the glass? I've looked around a bit but can't find anything specific for this lens.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

"Plain glass" is never used. Optical clear flat is also not used unless you are filming hazardous situations. The reason is that any additional glass decreases optical performance of the lens. Protective filters are for kiddies. Real men do not use protection...

Long lenses sometimes have internal filter slot. Red 300mm has one.

Happy shooting :biggrin:
 
mackro said:
Another new user question.

Is there a filter set out there that fits onto the lens? I've had these for my DSLR. Right now the only lens I have is the RED 18 - 50. Also, is there just a plain glass one out there so that I have something to protect the glass? I've looked around a bit but can't find anything specific for this lens.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

If the front of lens does not have a threaded filter screw mount, then you'd use a clamp-on adaptor ring to hold a round filter, one that is slightly bigger than the front of the lens.

But at some point as you use multiple lenses with different-sized fronts, and multiple filters, it will be easier to use a mattebox and rectangular filters.

But you may also want some round clamp-on filters and a rubber sunshade for more handheld situations.

If the lens has a filter tread in front, you can buy screw-on filters for that thread size usually. But at some point, it gets a bit awkward with lenses with huge front elements which is why most don't have filter threads.
 
Can someone comment on their experience with the filter TRU-CUT IR-750? I have a situation of external actors with plenty of sunshine and I am concerned about the purity of the blacks.
 
i've read a few filter review posts on here. since some time has passed, new filters released since latest reviews (redrock, formatt, etc.), what is the beginner filter set you'd recommend?

as i understand it, the nice package is:
- .3, .6 regular NDs by Tiffen
- Rosco True Color (anyone knows if they started doing "sandwiched", protected models by now?)
- .9, 1.2, 1.5 Panchro IRNDs

- any thoughts on the above kit? or any other recommendations due to new items in the market
- also which Polarizer would you recommend? (this one? http://www.filmtools.com/schneidtruep.html)
- what is the order to stack / not to stack these? (i'm assuming polarizer to go in front of everything (except IRNDs); rosco - 1st to the lenses, then NDs?)
- any thoughts if new RED cameras coming out will change the game with IR and other filter results?

thank u
 
ND and IR

ND and IR

Do you need IR+ND combos when shooting on the red? Also what if you stack and ND3IR and and ND6IR? Is that too much IR going on? Trying to understand it better. Or is it better to have separate ND filters and an IR filter?
 
Lawrence Daufenbach said:
Do you need IR+ND combos when shooting on the red? Also what if you stack and ND3IR and and ND6IR? Is that too much IR going on? Trying to understand it better. Or is it better to have separate ND filters and an IR filter?
Click to expand...

It depends what you mean by "better". It all depends. The goal is to get rid of IR contamination and avoid side effects such as vignetting or colour shifts. Different solutions work on different principles. Dichroic filters cut off certain spectrum. Pancro mirrors, for example, reflect both visible and IR equally and therefore can not be separated into IR and ND filter.

Performance of a dichroic IR filter will also differ depending on the angle of your lens as they introduce cutoff frequency shift towards corners. Some users reported reflections when using Pancros. Mine seem work perfectly on the lenses I have.

Read the tests performed here, test yourself and then chose what works best for you and your lenses.
 
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  • #34
Wow, way to resurrect a thread. I would recommend a matebox and 4x5.65 size filters for versatility and coverage. Most of us only use protector filters or optical flats for FX work where there is debris flying at the camera.
 
Yes - I learned that the hard way shooting a sparkler on an 8x10 Deardorff with a 10" Rodenstock lens that ended up with an area of melted glass on the front element from a flying piece of molten metal. I sold that lens - at a loss:–(
 
Richard Foster said:
Yes - I learned that the hard way shooting a sparkler on an 8x10 Deardorff with a 10" Rodenstock lens that ended up with an area of melted glass on the front element from a flying piece of molten metal. I sold that lens - at a loss:–(
Click to expand...

A big loss, I'm thinking. Ouch.
 
Any changes in filter reccomendations since MX?

Any changes in filter reccomendations since MX?

This is a very good thread but I am wondering if any information needs to be updated in light of the MX sensor? This thread started long before that.

Also, many operators have some extensive time under their belt now with the filter combos they bought. Any thoughts on what they'd have done / purchased different? What are the current reccomendations for "must have" filters? And brands please?
I'm adding a 6x mattebox for some anamorphics and I am re-evaluating what I need to pruchase this time.
Thanks!
lael
 
Hardly any mention of a Hot IR filter. In the oldnen days, long long ago, before time was measured, one used to have to have a "hot IR" when shooting at elevation. I live at 7000 and that's a "thing" out here. Our sunlight is closer to 5800k than 56 and we have uv bouncing all over the place... So, the question is: Is that still an issue with the new sensors and with the Epic and/or scarlet?

Inquiring minds need to know!

thanks
 
I only use Hot IRs when I pile on a lot of ND. The theory behind this has to with the ratio of visible light to IR. When one knocks down the visible light by a major amount using ND filters you do not reduce the IR. The atmosphere does absorb much of the IR at sea level. At 7000' of elevation there will be more more IR than at sea level. In answer to your question about the newer sensors, yes they are less sensitive to IR than the pre MX RED One sensor. Nonetheless, like I said once I starting adding significant amount of ND combined with high altitude I add a HOT IR dichroic in the filter stack.
 
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