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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Is there a D- Tap on the Pro i/o module????

There are several options, first you can use the dtap on the battery plate like most cameras utilize. You can have a distro box made, or get a dtap distro box from b&H and you can have a lemo cable made to power your FF or monitor.
 
Thanks, Trying to get away from the Batt plate and make the move to all redvolts especially for steadicam. So they make a lemo to D Tap Breakout. I've never seen that.....been looking all over the internets too.
Now does the +1 Module adapter have a D tap?
 
Thanks, Trying to get away from the Batt plate and make the move to all redvolts especially for steadicam. So they make a lemo to D Tap Breakout. I've never seen that.....been looking all over the internets too.
Now does the +1 Module adapter have a D tap?

+1
We bought the power out cable with loose ends but I guess a 4pin lemo to D-Tap female cable is what I need. Does any one have a link for such cable?

Or what is the most common Wireless FF power in connector?
 
Sell your module and Get the complete elektra and appollo systeme from action product ! I have the whole system, it's really good and it has nearly the same capabilities as the pro I/o.

I can put a cinetape, a wireless ff, a 7" monitor with wireless transmitter, a hd>sd converter, charge my redmote or my iPhone....
Of course, batteries are running low quickly :)

Pro I/o I not really a pro I/o.....
 
I am not sure you will get enough power out the lemo to power wireless FFs ?
I think that redvolts are at the current threshold for running the camera. Any significant additional load and the battery circuit will trip.
LI-ion have to be circuit protected so they don't overheat and catch on fire.
It would be good for Red to spec the current limit and circuit protection type (slow/fast fuse, resettable, thermal, etc) so we don't damage the camera running over current.
 
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