Will the Scarlet 2/3" include auto gain, autofocus, and image stabilization?

[David Rasberry]

In ENG style situations with broadcast zooms, i often quickly press the auto iris button, then manually nudge exposure half stop down. Usually this gives an acceptable compromise - and it's naturally very fast way to set up.

I've used that same procedure myself. Works well with zebras to choose where to sacrifice your highlights for good shadow detail.

 

[Chris Davis]

Non-destructive Auto Exposure

Non-destructive Auto Exposure

We don't know what Scarlets expsoure index will be but the red 1 is rated at nominal 320 ISO for example. Practical exposure latitude for R1 from some chart tests posted here is about 5 stops, 1 to 1-1/2 stops over and about 4 stops under depending on lighting conditions without getting excessive highlight burnout or shadow noise.
An auto iris lens controls light exposure to the sensor, the closer you stay to the optimum 320 ISO exposure the more dynamic range you have to play with in post.

Thanks for the info. So, if I have this correct, 1 ½ stops over ISO 320 would equal a about ISO 960. I guess negative ISO would be expressed in negative gain. If ISO 320 is about 10db of gain, four stops down would mean a RED one could still handle around -14 db of gain (?).

Gain can be manipulated in post with raw files, so you don't need to use that on the camera. This is a fundamental difference between normal video cameras and RAW digital cameras. With normal video formats you have to optimize gain and iris settings when you shoot, there is little range to deal with it in post.

Dan Hudgins idea (in this thread) to simply use manual iris and allow the camera to keep a record in metadata of how much gain "should" be added or subtracted makes a lot of sense. You could dial in manual gain in the shoot, and also the tell the camera that you’d like a separate set of metadata regarding auto-gain. In post, you could then keep or discard the metadata regarding the auto-gain corrections. The first ever kind of non-destructive auto exposure. Anyone else here like Dan’s idea?

 

[David Rasberry]

Thanks for the info. So, if I have this correct, 1 ½ stops over ISO 320 would equal a about ISO 960. I guess negative ISO would be expressed in negative gain. If ISO 320 is about 10db of gain, four stops down would mean a RED one could still handle around -14 db of gain (?).

You got it backwards, overexposure is lower ISO rating. Underexposure is higher. Not talking about gain but actual light exposure on the sensor. 4 stops under would be ISO 2500 approx. 1-1/2 over would be 100 ISO approx. The system records metadata based on actual light values from the sensor. You can have a metadata setting for gain, ISO speed in this case, but this does not affect the actual output of the sensor. Gain is how you manipulate the recorded values afterward. 320 ISO would be considered 0 gain point. This is more like exposing film than shooting video.

Dan Hudgins idea (in this thread) to simply use manual iris and allow the camera to keep a record in metadata of how much gain "should" be added or subtracted makes a lot of sense. You could dial in manual gain in the shoot, and also the tell the camera that you’d like a separate set of metadata regarding auto-gain. In post, you could then keep or discard the metadata regarding the auto-gain corrections. The first ever kind of non-destructive auto exposure. Anyone else here like Dan’s idea?

The problem with any auto exposure system is that in a moving shot with changing highlight and shadow values you may have to independently correct every frame to maintain the same midrange values for a consistent look to the shot. The idea is to manually expose and light for a range of values that fall within the dynamic limits of your camera so such adjustments are not necessary.

 

[Kyle Presley]

Having trouble finding it, but Jannard said 2/3" Scarlet will have auto everything.