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Why such friable image? Epic-W

Aleksandr Frayman

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Hi, everybody! I remove in 8k on Epic-W, the lens Xenon FF Prime 75mm. And in each picture I see big friability, there are no sharpnesses and distinctness. Saw settings of sharpness in the camera, but I don't know what it is better to make. Friends, help to deal with it. I am a beginner in RED.
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I don't know what you mean about friability but shot looks like you have missed critical focus on her eyes and ended up with it somewhere between the bridge of her nose and the tip of her nose (where there is little contrasty detail to spot sharps on.)

Aside from being more dilligent with focus RED does no in camera sharpening. So sometimesvif you want to sharpen an image a little post sharpening goes a long way.

In this case though I would suggest first learning better use of the focus assist tools (or getting your AC to do so).
 
I don't know what you mean about friability but shot looks like you have missed critical focus on her eyes and ended up with it somewhere between the bridge of her nose and the tip of her nose (where there is little contrasty detail to spot sharps on.)

Aside from being more dilligent with focus RED does no in camera sharpening. So sometimesvif you want to sharpen an image a little post sharpening goes a long way.

In this case though I would suggest first learning better use of the focus assist tools (or getting your AC to do so).
thanks for your response! I tried to find Focus Peaking as on the old Ursa mini 4.6 but found nothing similar, found only function of show of focus in the form of the square changing color, but it is very not convenient. How it is correct to make Focus Peaking? How it is correct to make good sharpness in Davinci? And whether costs делайть the Sharpness setup in the camera?
 
Hi Aleksandr,

There is no color peaking yet on Red cameras, just a simple focus peaking and you can't customise it (in Settings>Display>Tools and choose "Focus" in the "False Color" menu)

You can use also the Edge function to verify your focus.

If you want a color peaking you must take a third party lcd as SmallHD or something else.

Focus is very difficult with 8k sensor, especially if you just have a 720p LCD.
 
Hi Aleksandr,

There is no color peaking yet on Red cameras, just a simple focus peaking and you can't customise it (in Settings>Display>Tools and choose "Focus" in the "False Color" menu)

You can use also the Edge function to verify your focus.

If you want a color peaking you must take a third party lcd as SmallHD or something else.

Focus is very difficult with 8k sensor, especially if you just have a 720p LCD.

I have a monitor 7 * RED Touch. I have a question. Whether the correct color settings at me in the camera? Video Source: Graded.
profile of Redcolor 4/Red gamma 4 color.
 
And one more problem. For some reason when I work in Davinci, video the file contrasting when I transfer it to premiere pro, contrast disappears. What can it be? I have a professional monitor for operation with a graphics 4K, not MAc os/
 
In my experience, every signal chain should be tested end to end with a known reference image to determine appropriate settings/preferences for various software/platform/file type combos.

Primary attributes to check/adjust would be color space, full vs legal range (if in 709), gamma (1.8, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6), log vs linear encoding, bit depth. If you have a particular set of apps you use most of the time I'd get them all matched if possible - my bog standard starting point is usually rec 709, full range, 2.4 gamma, 8 bit RGB, 29.97fps 1080P which every device in the signal chain should be capable of. I'm old school so I just use rec 709 bars for setup.

How are you sending signal to the monitor? DL-DVI, HD-SDI 3G, HD-SDI 1.5Gx2, HDMI 1.4a/2.0/2.0a/2.0b, DP 1.3/1.4, DP 1.2 x2 (in MST or SST mode)? Do you have a purpose built Video interface from AJA, Matrox, BMD, BlueFish444, etc? Is it 10 bit capable? If so, is that via all connection ports - or only certain ones?

Over the years the manufacturers of devices and software/firmware coders have tried to create flags/handshakes that unerringly chose all the right settings. It even works as intended sometimes. Many other times, default settings somewhere along the signal chain are altering things like legal vs full range in rec 709 (0-255 vs 216-235 IIRC) or perhaps a gamma setting gets toggled that shouldn't have, etc.

This topic gets deep quickly, baseline is to get your reference image to the display without any shifts. Sometimes one preference change is all you need, or perhaps figuring out how to put a monitoring LUT in your signal chain. Other times, it can be a PITA. Strongly suggest you make notes or take a pic of the settings/preferences panes as you go. Watch out for default presets for imported files. Does your app default to "matching clip settings" on import? That can work well, but it can also make unexpected changes to sequence/timeline/format settings.

Cheers - #19
 
Edge focus is awesome. I assign a button on my side handle to toggle it.

There's also the magnifier tool, but that will only take the centre part of the image. As far as I know, there's no way to magnify the other areas of the image.
 
Edge focus is awesome. I assign a button on my side handle to toggle it.

There's also the magnifier tool, but that will only take the centre part of the image. As far as I know, there's no way to magnify the other areas of the image.

If you select autofocus (doesn't matter whether your lens supports it or not--it brings up a target that the camera will use for AF calculations), you can manually move the target around the full screen. When you select magnify, it will magnify the image around the autofocus box. But, unfortunately, unlike most other cameras, RED doesn't allow magnification during recording, which makes it very, very difficult to maintain critical focus during a shot in which your subject moves. RED acknowledges this limitation in the fine print of every firmware build, but has not yet ever said they will actually go and fix the limitation.
 
That focus looks fine to me at that resolution. But to be safe, you can actually combine both of the tools that others have suggested. Magnify and then use the Edge false color mode on top of that.

For the most perceived sharpness, shoot at the highest resolution, lowest compression, add sharpening in post and export at full debayer quality.
The default softening is by the OLPF to prevent moire. I used to hate the idea of post-sharpening, but it's not noticeable unless you overdo it.
 
If you select autofocus (doesn't matter whether your lens supports it or not--it brings up a target that the camera will use for AF calculations), you can manually move the target around the full screen. When you select magnify, it will magnify the image around the autofocus box. But, unfortunately, unlike most other cameras, RED doesn't allow magnification during recording, which makes it very, very difficult to maintain critical focus during a shot in which your subject moves. RED acknowledges this limitation in the fine print of every firmware build, but has not yet ever said they will actually go and fix the limitation.

Michael, you just made my day. I will go check this out! I don't mind not being able to magnify during recording. Well not yet, as I haven't yet had a situation where I've needed it. But never say never! :laugh:
 
Edge focus is awesome. I assign a button on my side handle to toggle it.

There's also the magnifier tool, but that will only take the centre part of the image. As far as I know, there's no way to magnify the other areas of the image.

If you set focus to Spot you can drag the box to wherever you'd like in the image.
 
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