Which Timecode gear to invest into?

[Alexander Thomson]

When you keep a timecode device attached to a RED body, is there a need to keep jamming frequently for safety? Or is the timecode always in sync as long as a timecode device is physically attached?

In other words, does the drift only occur if you jam the camera and then detach the timecode device?

In the past, I've been syncing in post, using audio waveforms via a scratch mic. When I update my audio recorder, I'll be sending backup audio from the recorder to the camera, so waveform syncing should be even more reliable than before, coming from the same mic. Part of the reason I've been leaning towards to Zoom F4 over the MixPre is the timecode-out on the F4, but I'm wondering if it will be that important if I'm always running the backup audio into the camera. Thoughts?

If you have a TCXO timecode device like a tentacle sync plugged into the RED, then you're all set. The timecode will stay jammed.

If normally sync via waveform, then you may not need timecode.

 

[Alexander Thomson]

If you have a Zoom F4, why would you need a Tentacle? Why not just jam sync between the RED and F4?

The tentacle will keep the RED from drifting. Because the RED does not have a TCXO onboard, it will drift as soon as 1 hour after jamming.

 

[Marc Wielage]

Over the weekend I decided to test just how well the Epic W's kept timecode themselves internally, so I set up a little test since I now have two of them. I sync'd them both (warmed up for 30 minutes) to a 633 on free run and left camera power on but disconnected the sync cable connection. Next I photographed (1/1000 sec) the screens of both cameras sitting next to each other over the next couple of hours which "froze" the screens showing the timecode values. Long story short - after one hour they were at least one frame apart, and after two hours 3 frames apart (both running 23.98). My conclusion is that you really do need some sort of local timecode kit attached to the camera, unless you want to have cables or re-sync every 30 minutes.

This is also my painful experience, after a series of tests 5 or 6 years ago that I posted long ago in a message here. It's a very, very wise idea to use a lockbox with any camera -- and I would include Alexa, Blackmagic, Canon, Panasonic, Red, and Sony on that list. I had a pretty awful experience with a multicam shoot with a Canon, but the editor was right on top of it and just manually synced it all by hand without a complaint.

Ideally, you have to have both timecode and a genlock reference in order for multiple cameras to be precisely in sync with each other. Otherwise, they'll drift +/- 1 frame on certain takes every so often.

 

[Rome Will]

I ended up getting a 702T with Denecke smart slate (TS-3), Denecke SB-3 (which lives on my RED brain) and then connects to a WC accessory box that has genlock, timecode, and one other SDI input...that WC box then connects to the back of my RED brain via a tiny lemo (sync port I believe)...

Funny how the camera still drifts every now and then, thats why it's always good to check a couple times a day...as my audio guy said "drift happens"...lol

 

[David Peterson]

Well have got two Tentacle Syncs now, but seriously considering getting two Ultrasync ONEs as well.... any reason at all why they wouldn't all play nicely together on the same shoot?