What's a good single key light for MX?

[Dean Butler]

Hello,

I shoot a lot of documentary and corporate interviews. Most of the time I shoot with available light and add to it with kino's and 800w tungsten lights with gels to balance to daylight color temp.

However sometimes I have to make do with the lights alone and I'm finding there's just not enough kick at least for the key light. I either have to remove all diffusion (to get good enough exposure and it's usually still under and it doesn't look as good), push the footage in post or move the lights too close to the talent, again the lighting doesn't look as good and it's off putting for the talent.

So I'm thinking of getting something bright enough to be an equivalent to a 2k blonde tungsten, but preferably without the heat (and I find the Scarlet doesn't like tungsten as much, at least on skin tones compared to daylight). I thought I could get quite a hard light that could be used that way, or diffused in different ways for whatever look/effect we are after.

Could anyone give me some advise on what a good single light would be to purchase? We are often shooting with a 3 - 4 person crew moving from location to location, car and plane.

Thanks!

 

[Matt Ryan]

Get this: http://www.k5600.com/products/jb400/index.html with a softbox or softtube and thank me later. The k5600 lights are awesome, low power, high output, versatile piece of lighting kit. Use it on exterior shoots as well. It's pricy but you will get decades of use out of the thing and it packs a punch. The new Big Eye accessory (beauty softbox type diffuser) is also excellent: http://www.k5600.com/products/bigeye/index.html

 

[David Mullen ASC]

A 1.2K HMI is the daylight equivalent of a 2K tungsten, if not slightly brighter. There is also the K 5600 Joker 1600 and a 1.8K HMI, but at that point you are pushing the limits of a 20A circuit.

Yes, the Joker 800 is also a good choice.

 

[Matt Ryan]

A 1.2K HMI is the daylight equivalent of a 2K tungsten, if not slightly brighter. There is also the K 5600 Joker 1600 and a 1.8K HMI, but at that point you are pushing the limits of a 20A circuit.

Yes, the Joker 800 is also a good choice.

David, curious why the Joker 400 has this in the description: "The JOKER-BUG 400 is comparable to a 1500/2000Wquartz fixture but with a power draw of only 5.5 Amps." Can that be right? I realize it's a par so it has more punch at closer distances so would that be where the claim comes from?

 

[Dean Butler]

Thanks fellas!!! Appreciate your input

 

[David Mullen ASC]

I've never done a direct comparison but they may be right, just seems a bit of a stretch. General rule of thumb is that an HMI is about twice as efficient as a tungsten, at least, that's my general rule of thumb but I tend to be conservative in my estimates, better that than pick a light that is too small for the job. You're probably right to say that a Joker 800 is a good competitor to a 2K tungsten, and it's similar in output to many 1.2K HMI's.

These companies probably all list their products' photometric data so it's not hard to compare.

 

[Matt Ryan]

I've never done a direct comparison but they may be right, just seems a bit of a stretch. General rule of thumb is that an HMI is about twice as efficient as a tungsten, at least, that's my general rule of thumb but I tend to be conservative in my estimates, better that than pick a light that is too small for the job. You're probably right to say that a Joker 800 is a good competitor to a 2K tungsten, and it's similar in output to many 1.2K HMI's.

These companies probably all list their products' photometric data so it's not hard to compare.

Wise words, thanks David.

 

[Michael Lindsay]

Comparing different fixtures is tricky ...they tend to be different in ways beyond the light emitting technology.

That said if you are (like this guys says) gelling a blonde to daylight a 400w joker has more useful output than a blonde.