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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

What went wrong, if anything, here? Dragon noise level

but you can also capture lower compression. 4:1 compared to 6:1 as an example using about the same amount media.

battistella

Great point about compression. I actually think some of the "extra noise" that's possible at cropped in resolutions can be offset by using less compression. We've been using that approach for MX 3K, and it's been extremely helpful.
 
Just a small note/ rule of thumb on shutter angles/ degrees etc. (I work in degrees)

what is most important is to keep an eye on the the T/E indicators (see phils chart) and that they are green/green or green/yellow.

if they are green/red or yellow/red or red/red (like when the sensor is warming up) then it's best to wait for it to warm up or to do a blackshading calibration if the camera is up to temp and any of these indicators is RED. If it's green yellow, I have not noticed a massive issue. Green green is best though.

Battistella
 
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thanks for this thread guys - very useful.

I found using the epic dragon at 4kHD that I generally don't want to go above 640 ASA. I had no idea about the T+E settings - and I've been using the epic for over 3 years now. Man, I wish I knew that. For the future I'll be more careful.

And I wish more ACs knew about this stuff as well when they use red stuff.
 
Here it is from the DSMC guide.


CAL: T/E INDICATOR
The CAL: T/E indicator shows changes to temperature (T) or exposure (E) in relation to the active calibrationmap. If the temperature or exposure change significantly, black shade the camera at the desired temperatureand exposure. Failure to properly calibrate the sensor may reduce image quality.
 Green: Sensor temperature or exposure are properly calibrated for current settings.
 Yellow: Slight change in sensor temperature or exposure.
 Red: Significant change in sensor temperature or exposure.
 The – and + indicate whether the sensor temperature or exposure has decreased or increased, respectively.NOTE: T and E indicators change colors independently of each other.
 
Great point about compression. I actually think some of the "extra noise" that's possible at cropped in resolutions can be offset by using less compression. We've been using that approach for MX 3K, and it's been extremely helpful.

We have found that too. Overall we have been getting really great results out of MX 4k and 3k and the lowest possible compression. Very comparable to Dragon... still not quite the dragon, but when we can't rent our trust MX doesn't hurt our feelings when we have to shoot it.
 
Luckily the noise can be cleaned up. Unfortunately it seems like focus was buzzed on these shots. Even sharpening the hell out of these doesn't make them look particularly sharp. Noise level looks about right for the skintone/highlight olpf and the higher ISO's used to shoot. The advice given above should help you guys out on the next shoot. Keep on shooting!

couple1.jpg

girl.jpg

dude.jpg
 
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