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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

What kind of Track Wheels?

M

Mikko Suomalainen

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Hi!

I just recently bought some second hand Panavision steel track, and I made a basic platform-dolly with skateboard wheels on it.
I bought a set of these wheels for it: http://www.glidegear.net/product/dolly-track-swivel-wheels/

For few shoots they worked good, but this weekend I had some major problems. The wheels got huge bumps on them, when the DP was sitting on the dolly between shots. They are just generally too soft, since they get bumps very easily. Apparently they are made to be used just under a tripod, so that's why the DP sitting on dolly was too much load.

The V-brackets are great, so I only need the wheels. My budget would be 100€ maximum.

So what's your recommendation for skateboard/rollerblade wheels for dolly track? What size and strength? How about brands?
 
Skateboard wheels are usually rated with a particular durometer hardness rating. See http://bones.com/why/b-scale/
There are also issues of surface finish, diameter and composition of the wheels, as well as the condition of and finish on the tracks.
Sorry this isn't a simple recommendations, but at least it may help in articulating what works and specifying what to buy.
 
Hi!

I've been skateboarding my whole life, so I know somewhat lot about them, and also many shops where to buy the wheels.
But the hardness is what I'm thinking, the wheels that I'm now using seems to be longboard wheels, propably 78A rated.
So should I buy the hardest that I can get (99-100), or something in between, 92 or 97?
The track is in fairly good condition, but still I'm worrying a bit if I buy the hardest wheels, will there be just every small bump and joints noticed?

And what is a good size, around 58mm? Powell Mini-Logo 58mm 97a is what I'm looking now.
 
I believe you are on track (pun intended) in looking for something in between what you have now and the hardest available. Too hard will transfer too many small bumps to the camera head, and, as you have discovered, too soft leads to flat spots. Most of the really good dolly grips I've worked with will roll the dolly back and forth a bit every couple of minutes to keep the wheels more perfectly round. I would assume the higher end dollies use wheels they have determined through testing are the "Goldilocks" hardness. Whether that is 85 or 95 on the scale you cite I don't know. Would suggest you load up your dolly with a typical load and see how often you would have to "row" it back and forth to keep the wheels round. If a quick row before each take keeps you smooth I'd just keep what you have and prioritize keeping it moving - but I'm a cheap bastard ;-).

Cheers - #19
 
Hi!

With the wheels I have now, it was almost total nightmare, we had many shots where the shot lasted about one minute on fix frame, and then started dollying. Even if I rided the dolly for a few minutes, and it was smooth before the shot, there was bumps after that one minute the dolly had to keep still :)
 
Oh, I know all about this. I've sold about 3000 skateboard dollies, and skateboard dolly kits, over the last 25 years.

Hard wheels are best because they don't get flat spots. Soft wheels do ride over poorly cut gaps better, but they can get flat spots on them if you ride the dolly and let it sit in one place. Some users roll the dolly back and forth between takes to keep this to a minimum. We use harder wheels and our track is precision cut, and uses our Track Connectors so the joints are smooth. Also our trucks have 4 wheels each, and they swivel AND slide from side to side to go around curves better.

Check our stuff out at longvalleyequip.com

If you just want hard wheels, go for 93 or 95 durometer when you buy locally. Also I recommend ABEC 5 or 7 bearings as they are quieter than cheaper bearings.

We sell straight and curved PVC track with the connectors installed. A lot of users just buy our wheels/trucks and connectors, then make their own platform and buy their own pipe.

Here is our wheel/truck kit on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/231477219326?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
 
Thanks so much Doug!

I wish I had bought your wheel sets.. But since I already have the trucks (and bearings too), I'll just try to find the wheels for a good price. I already found two sets of un-used 63mm 92a wheels that I got from a friend back in the days, now I just need to buy two sets more.

I love reduser too, I posted this same question to Cinematography.com and didn't get any replies yet.. :)

-Mikko
 
Douglas Underdahl said:
Oh, I know all about this. I've sold about 3000 skateboard dollies, and skateboard dolly kits, over the last 25 years.

Hard wheels are best because they don't get flat spots. Soft wheels do ride over poorly cut gaps better, but they can get flat spots on them if you ride the dolly and let it sit in one place. Some users roll the dolly back and forth between takes to keep this to a minimum. We use harder wheels and our track is precision cut, and uses our Track Connectors so the joints are smooth. Also our trucks have 4 wheels each, and they swivel AND slide from side to side to go around curves better.

Check our stuff out at longvalleyequip.com

If you just want hard wheels, go for 93 or 95 durometer when you buy locally. Also I recommend ABEC 5 or 7 bearings as they are quieter than cheaper bearings.

We sell straight and curved PVC track with the connectors installed. A lot of users just buy our wheels/trucks and connectors, then make their own platform and buy their own pipe.

Here is our wheel/truck kit on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/231477219326?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Click to expand...

+ 1 on Long Valley kits. I have a sled I built using those wheels. They are fantastic. I bought some steel track but on this last gig I was shooting some broll for this documentary about the Eastern District Court in Brooklyn and facilities feared the steel track so I busted out the long valley PVC and it was great. I forgot how easy and light and really well they work.

Get the long valley wheel kit. You'll be really pleased
 
Thanks Hugh

Other two "secrets" about PVC track are

A) spray it down with Pledge furniture polish to eliminate any squeaks. It's a spray wax that also repels dirt. Wipe off the excess. I keep a can and rag in the track bag.

B) get a few moving blankets to put under the track when you are shooting on a creaky wooden floor, or crunchy gravel. Really helps to stop noise. Moving blankets are also great for laying down on for those low shots, and catching 20 winks between set ups . . .

The other thing about PVC is that it's not as rigid as steel track, so you rarely have to level it. It coforms to the floor or ground and smooths it out. Then you level your sticks and fluid head. Steel track is so rigid that it must be carefully shimmed or the ends will clunk and rock. Shimming takes a lot of time, so there's a big penalty if you want to, say, move it a foot or two before a take. Not so with PVC.
 
Here's a shot of the dolly with PVC and ABS track.

Also a close up of a Track Connector and wrench.
 

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