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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Updated Low Light OLPF Examples

Brandon J.F.

Brandon J.F.

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I shot a few quick tests tonight. All available light.

Scarlet Dragon, ISO 2000, 5k WS, 7:1, 30 second grade.

lD6PR5s.png


(R3D)

Please share anything you might have as well. I'll post more soon (with R3Ds).
 
looks very nice, i'm sure the red lights would change quite a bit between different color sciences, is this dragonColor?

i'll try to look for a specific example i can use, i've actually been committing the grave sin of not black-shading (to allow, perhaps, for a little more noise,) which i find has a pretty pleasant disposition... but i've also heard that it takes less time in the newer builds, and i should probably get back to blackshading anyhow. but for purposes where you want noise, i find it better to get it in camera via underexposure than adding it, at least with the red.
 
Wet streets help a lot in low light.

nice samples.

Battistella
 
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Brandon, that looks great! What lens and T-stop did you shoot with?

Paul, the biggest problem with not black shading is that you can develop hot pixels over time, and if you get a few in a series of shots, it's much more time consuming in post to remove those pixels than it is to do a good black shade beforehand.
 
Brandon J.F. said:
I shot a few quick tests tonight. All available light.

Scarlet Dragon, ISO 2000, 5k WS, 7:1, 30 second grade.

lD6PR5s.png


Please share anything you might have as well. I'll post more soon (with R3Ds).
Click to expand...


Brandon this looks really great, yes wet streets do help at night time as David B pointed out, when you say 30sec grade can you please let us know roughly what you did and in what software?

We will be getting our 2x Scarlett dragonised this year, so I'm really interested in any low light OLPF samples.

Thanks for sharing
 
paulherrin said:
looks very nice, i'm sure the red lights would change quite a bit between different color sciences, is this dragonColor?
Click to expand...

I didn't really look yet. Yeah, it's DG/RG4. The reds are really "hot" in the tests I shot. Almost too hot.

paulherrin said:
i'll try to look for a specific example i can use, i've actually been committing the grave sin of not black-shading (to allow, perhaps, for a little more noise,) which i find has a pretty pleasant disposition... but i've also heard that it takes less time in the newer builds, and i should probably get back to blackshading anyhow. but for purposes where you want noise, i find it better to get it in camera via underexposure than adding it, at least with the red.
Click to expand...

I really like how Dragon noise feels. It's very filmic. I'm probably going to add enough ND that I can shoot the few daylight exterior scenes we have at ISO2000 so things match.

David Battistella said:
Wet streets help alto in low light.

nice samples.

Battistella
Click to expand...

Yeah, the wet streets look great and help a lot.

Burke Doeren said:
Brandon, that looks great! What lens and T-stop did you shoot with?.
Click to expand...

I shot at a T2. The lens goes to T1.6. The girl was just someone random on the street and she's a little out of focus.

Thanks!
 
Adrian Weinbrecht said:
Brandon this looks really great, yes wet streets do help at night time as David B pointed out, when you say 30sec grade can you please let us know roughly what you did and in what software?

We will be getting our 2x Scarlett dragonised this year, so I'm really interested in any low light OLPF samples.

Thanks for sharing
Click to expand...

I auto white balanced in camera (2857K, -20.596 tint), a small S curve, plus some alchemy (0.373), default unsharp mask, and outputted a still with ADD. Then I added a subtle vignette in Camera Raw and boosted the "Whites" +60. That's it. It took about 30 seconds.

The low light OLPF is the way to go for indie work!

The way I'm lighting these street scenes is to use what's there and paint in a little light with a battery powered china ball on a boom pole. I have a company making me custom variable color temp LED strip lights (CRI 95) so I can dial in anything between 2700k and 6000k. The lights should arrive soon. Then it's just a matter of playing with the color temps of the LEDs and what I balance to until I find a combination I like.

Oh, and the updated OLPF fixed the flaring problem entirely!
 
Brandon J.F. said:
Not a one.
Click to expand...

There are no neutral colored lights to reveal the red orb problem in that shot, so hard to tell. I see sizeable red orbs around red lights, which could be normal and just because they are red, or maybe that's fog and not orbs at all, or… Really hard to say.

Someone PLEASE shoot actually bright, non-red lights so we can see to what extent problem has really been solved.
 
def on the "to buy" upgrade list
 
this really looks great brandon...!!! maybe you could post a R3D... 'd be appreciated... very nice work...!!!:thumbsup:
 
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