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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Transporting Lenses Do and Don't!!

that's an excellent point. One of the main reasons why lenses might be dropped(on the set) is if some idiot AC leaves the lens case open after hastily grabbing a new lens for a quick change. it's always important to make freaking sure that the lens case is always closed from at least one latch unless there's somebody grabbing something from there.

Another point worth at least a page-long rant is coffee-cups on equipment cases on the set, but that doesn't belong in this thread.
 
Juhan Malmstein said:
Another point worth at least a page-long rant is coffee-cups on equipment cases on the set, but that doesn't belong in this thread.
Click to expand...

Stay put as for this I have been bugging the crap out of Louis at Innerspace to design a customized ATA case smaller, more portable, but more important offering the same protection of the Pelican/Storm case style, were the inside is completely sealed, and has a specially designed closing system to be weather tight!
 
Thanks Ketch, very usefull.
My primes set is in a Pelican i will post some picts...

cheers
 
Hey Ketch (if it's ok to call you by your first name on my first post directed to you),

Thanks for sharing all these tips. I had been using some of the same methods for a while now, but it's good to learn a ton of new tips and the reasons behind them. Also, they will come in even more handy because I'm purchasing my RPPs (with the 18mm and the 300mm) now. Which brings me to my question...

Since we're talking about protection of lenses:

1. I'm thinking of buying protection screw-in filters (or UV filters) for all of them. I see that as the best way of protecting my front elements. Just wonderin...
a) Is it (for some weird reason) not a good idea?
b) I've heard especially with the 300mm it's better to put drop in filters in the back, but I don't know if this applies to UV...can I still protect my front element with a UV? or should I use just an "optical flat" protection filter.

2. Are the filters 105mm?
3. I've seen some 105mm advertised as "coarse thread"...is that a problem? Should I look for "normal" (which I guess is actually fine thread?)

If anyone can answer these, I'd be very thankful. I'm also in a bit of a hurry to know...

Thanks in advance,

Yecid Jr.
Purchasing our 2nd RED ONE...very excited!!!
 
Yecid Jr. said:
Hey Ketch (if it's ok to call you by your first name on my first post directed to you),

Thanks for sharing all these tips. I had been using some of the same methods for a while now, but it's good to learn a ton of new tips and the reasons behind them. Also, they will come in even more handy because I'm purchasing my RPPs (with the 18mm and the 300mm) now. Which brings me to my question...

Since we're talking about protection of lenses:

1. I'm thinking of buying protection screw-in filters (or UV filters) for all of them. I see that as the best way of protecting my front elements. Just wonderin...
a) Is it (for some weird reason) not a good idea?
b) I've heard especially with the 300mm it's better to put drop in filters in the back, but I don't know if this applies to UV...can I still protect my front element with a UV? or should I use just an "optical flat" protection filter.

2. Are the filters 105mm?
3. I've seen some 105mm advertised as "coarse thread"...is that a problem? Should I look for "normal" (which I guess is actually fine thread?)

If anyone can answer these, I'd be very thankful. I'm also in a bit of a hurry to know...

Thanks in advance,

Yecid Jr.
Purchasing our 2nd RED ONE...very excited!!!
Click to expand...

Hey Yecid, it is not only absolutely okay to call me by my first name, but a must, I would not want you calling me any other names, he he.


The use of Screw in Filters, has always been for directly changing the look of how the image was captured, by the use of various filters with various effects, from Polarizers, Neutral Density standard and "Gradients", Warming filters, Ultra Violet etc. etc. only recently the use of filter become a must on lenses such as many of the Canon "L" series which offer Weather Resistant Lenses, when attached to their Weather Resistant Bodies, such as the new 1D series, this lens will only Truly be Weather Resistant if a Front Screw IN filter is attached.

In this case when the need calls for it the use of a clear UV filter of High Quality is a must, and this do not degrade the image in any way, I have tested over 50 lenses during the last few years, and I firmly can say that image degradation, only happens when low quality filters are used.

Amongst the best are the W+B filters.


Therefor the use of Screw In filters is not to actually protect the front element, but to protect the lens it self, as if and when dust and or moisture enters a lens, only a Professional shop can and only they should open the lens to clean it, from either moisture and or internal dust deposits.

If a lens as Cine Lenses are used, such as the RPP in question, then even with custom screw in filters, there is little protection offered to the lens other then avoiding having to clean the actual front element, instead of the filter, and possibly allowing for preserving the front glass element, as far as dust and moisture, this elements will enter any lens, no matter of cost and or build quality, unless specifically manufactured to be Weather resistant.

Also with Cine Lenses, since many filters are used to get a shot, it is best to not have an additional piece of glass that serves no direct purpose to the capturing of a look, or added to allow the capture of a shot other wise impossible in bright day light, such as in the sue of Neutral Filters of different darkness levels.


So best of luck with your R1's and just make sure that you take good care of the RPP's, no worries about Screw in Filters on them, as this are not the type of lens that you will ever take shooting under the rain, and or in the middle of the desert on a windy day, with out a proper full cover for the entire camera set up.
 
If you carefully look at the construction of ATA type cases, you will notice that for the case to be as tight as a Pelican or Storm case, it would have to be sealed at every seam or corner with a flexable sealant such as aviation Pro Seal or maybe a silicone product. There would have to be a continous seal between the lid and the base of the case. Damage incurred to these two mating surfaces would probably invalidate the seal.

The military has probably the most experience with the shipping and transport of some very expensive and delicate equipment. They use Pelican type cases all of the time. The original Red One case was (and maybe still is) a Pelican. They isolate the contents with foam and it seems to serve them well.

Don't want the contents of the case to get hot, then put shade or a space blanket on it. Don't want someone to sit or stand on it, placard it "NO STEP NO SIT".

I have noticed that the "art" of closing and latching of cases has not been well transfered the latest generation of up and coming movie makers, at least here in California. Forty years ago, that was the first lesson for a second assistant to learn. If that second assistant neglected that rule even once, they were out looking for a new job the next day. That is how basic and important it was then. It is still just as basic and important now because the consiquences to the equipment are the same, just not the personnel. Times have changed.

By the way, Innerspace does a wonderful job on foam cuts for Pelican and Storm cases as do some others. Just my 2 cents.
 
Hi,
We use our Red (with 18-50) for documentaries & nature shoots. Offlate we've been carrying the Red with lens attached in a Pelican case, to protect the sensor & avoid fixing the lens in dusty (or misty) outdoor locations. Hence, we never lift the lens. What risks do my equipment face?
Thanks,
Ritesh
 
Ritesh said:
Hi,
We use our Red (with 18-50) for documentaries & nature shoots. Offlate we've been carrying the Red with lens attached in a Pelican case, to protect the sensor & avoid fixing the lens in dusty (or misty) outdoor locations. Hence, we never lift the lens. What risks do my equipment face?
Thanks,
Ritesh
Click to expand...

None, if the lens never supports the camera, by means of the foam not letting the lens float easily resting, the 18-50 is a super light lens, so if was to be left always on the camera, it will happen nothing, just always makes sure that never the lens support the weight of the camera when placed in the case.

I actually, even so much prefer Primes to Zoom, do the same thing with any camera I use for long lengths of time in bad weather, and in high dust environment, this prevents any dust to enter the sensor, or at list most of it, as some how dust always finds its way in ;)
 
This is a fantastic thread. I'm glad it was resurrected because I missed it before. Thanks Mr. Ketch for starting this as I've learned a lot. I mostly read here as I have much to learn from all the experts around here. I have been here from the beginning and enjoy your posts; I'm sorry I missed your tiramisu. :(

This thread should be stickied or indexed for newer shooters who aim for professional practice or independents who will eventually work with crews.

I'd like to add this little piece for new assistants.

The lens belongs in only 1 of 3 places:
1) In the case.
2) In your hand.
3) On the camera.

Laying it on a table or elsewhere is inviting a) disaster or b) gravity and disaster into your world. There is a unique, sick sound created when a $XX,000 lens hits a stage floor and you do not want to be the one who created it.
 
Last edited:
How to get even with airlines and their baggage handlers.

A musician named Dave Carroll recently had difficulty with United Airlines. United apparently damaged his treasured Taylor guitar ($3500) during a flight. Dave spent over nine months trying to get United to pay for damages caused by baggage handlers.

During his final exchange with a United Customer Relations Manager, he stated that he was going to create a music video for you tube exposing their lack of cooperation. The Manager responded: "Good luck with that one, pal".

So he posted this retaliatory video on you tube. The video has since received over 7 million hits. United Airlines contacted the musician and attempted settlement in exchange for pulling the video. His response was: "Good luck with that one, pal".

Taylor Guitars sent the musician two new custom guitars in appreciation for the product recognition from the video that has lead to a sharp increase in orders. This is easy listening.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YGc4zOqozo&NR=1
 
When I bought a set of Cooke Panchro/i's the case I purchased from Cooke has the 6 hole case with the lens holes cut so that the lenses rest on their side. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

I'm assuming, for those lenses, the at-rest-on-it's-side, position is best. I mean, that's what Cooke did, anyhow. It's a pretty cool case, too.

You suppose that is to reflect how they are built? Because they are built almost exactly like S4's and I've used those in many cases where the front element went face up.

-ryan
 
Danny Lingan said:
This is a fantastic thread. I'm glad it was resurrected because I missed it before. Thanks Mr. Ketch for starting this as I've learned a lot. I mostly read here as I have much to learn from all the experts around here. I have been here from the beginning and enjoy your posts; I'm sorry I missed your tiramisu. :(

This thread should be stickied or indexed for (...)
Click to expand...
Stick it! :-)
 
I don't know if this was mentioned but i try and fit 16kg of carry on and it does work most of the time if you just shut up. However, in the case you get the wrong person on the wrong day, most airlines have a fragile section. Ask and remind them it is very fragile. Plaster the luggage with Fragile stickers. They usually have a separate loading scheme for fragile equipment. Then hope for the best. I have only had to do this 2 times out of approx 30. My first flight where i told them about the 16kgs (learnt really quick) and another time where they put it in the belly but treated it fine. I have never been to North America which seems like its own universe in regards, so not sure my advise would work there.

Other than that Steve's fedexing idea sounds good.
 
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