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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Tokina 11-16 - Soft at furthest focus

I set the BF at 16mm 3ft. When I zoom out to 11mm and refocus its now almost at 7ft.
 
either the lens bf is long or the camera flange is short. At this point i suggest take another zoom and do the same thing. If the results are close it points at the camera flange. If different it suggests the lens bf.
Camera flange depth adjustment is described in the camera manual.
If it's the lens bf you need to remove a shim from under the lens mount flange.
I do NOT recommend doing that yourself if you don't know what you are doing.
If you are adjusting the camera flange first get the lens in focus at 16mm. Zoom out, do not touch the lens focus ring. Adjust the camera flange until the image is sharp at 3ft mark at 11mm fl on the lens. Now zoom back to 16mm and refocus with the lens focus ring again. zoom out again to 11mm and repeat with camera flange adjustment.
To make long story short just remember:
16mm (long end) -adjust with the lens focus ring only
11mm (wide end)- refocus with the camera FD adjustment only.
Repeat until the image is its sharpest at both 16 and 11mm.
This is as good as it's going to get.
This rule applies to any zoom lens on any camera BTW:thumbsup:
hope that helps...
 
Johnny pretty much hit the nail on the head. If you are working with a stock Tokina 11-16, that's what happens, it's a consumer lens.

If you've invested in a Duclos mod of the same glass, will cost you thousands, but what can I say. Johnny shot the National Geographic Migrations Series Palau jellyfish segment with Matt Duclos' 11-16 Tokina cine-mod, the results speak for themselves.

He won an Emmy for his work.

I rest my case.
 
The same Johnny could have probably shot it with the coke bottle glass and still win the Emmy.
Lenses don't make great footage- people do...
I admire what Duclos does- I couldn't do it for that money.
But it's more about the convenience for PL guys so they have a super wide, light weight lens for their camera and don't swap mounts- that's all.
They surely don't alter the original optical design....
 
If I set the BF at 11mm 3ft, I seem to get a sharper image at inf but at 16mm I have to back it off inf a little to get it sharp. So I think I will leave it like this for now and shoot outside and see whats what. At least this way I can get sharp ( although the 11 isnt crispy but who could expect such wide to be crispy) at inf for the whole range.
 
Keep going Ben, you're on the right track.
Repeat until your focus @16mm and 11mm matches exactly so you don't need to move the focus ring at all on both extremes. You'll get there
 
If I make it so the focus does not change neither is sharp :(
 
You will get it sharp- trust me I've done it for over 25 years...
Just remember 16mm- lens focus ring only to get it sharp, 11mm-camera flange adjustment to get it sharp (do not touch the lens focus ring @11mm)
Repeat as many times as necessary to get it there.
If you can't get it sharp at11mm with the camera adjustment you may not have enough range on the camera adjustment..
 
Im not sure that I want to mess with the flange as I have no clue about it :)
 
The lens will not get sharp without it..
Maybe the first time you can have a tech show you...
BTW have you put another zoom on it?
 
OptiTek said:
Camera flange depth adjustment is described in the camera manual.
Click to expand...
I searched the camera manual and the Canon mount manual for 'flange', but didn't find anything?
 
Don't tell me Red calls it "back focus"!!!!:lol:
 
OptiTek said:
Don't tell me Red calls it "back focus"!!!!:lol:
Click to expand...

I hate it when they hide the information in plain sight! ha ha.

BTW - once back focus is finished for one lens, will back focus be correct for all Canon lenses? I get the impression that may not be the case?
 
Obviously that's not the case here-at least. In order to have all lenses focused correctly they all need to be "base lined" correctly on a collimator.
Then the camera needs to be "base lined" correctly as well. This can be done with a special tool like our Optimator (straight forward and bullet proof) or with one of the "base lined" lenses.
Preferably with the widest, fastest, longest range zoom at a close distance. This minimizes the DOF thus maximizes the precision....
 
Hmmm... I recently picked up an 11-16 and I think I got a bad one; has anyone else got one which exhibits a... veiling glare, for want of a better description, just in the center of the image, at the extreme ends of the zoom range? Nothing to do with focus, everything to do with zoom.

Going back to try another!

Mike
 
After looking through 14-24 Nikkor every lens exhibits veiling glare:devil:
 
Mike 'Fireman' Ross said:
Hmmm... I recently picked up an 11-16 and I think I got a bad one; has anyone else got one which exhibits a... veiling glare, for want of a better description, just in the center of the image, at the extreme ends of the zoom range? Nothing to do with focus, everything to do with zoom.

Going back to try another!

Mike
Click to expand...
no such probs with mine Mike...

Stu Aull
SX199
Alaska
 
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