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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Timnelapse setup question

Thank you Nick this helps me know when and why I should use one over the other.
I used the frame summing the other nite just during a camera test and did notice the noise or hot pixs you talked of. I was asking a lot from the camera but will keep trying and fund a good average for low light TL. And try to find some other used for the dragging shutter as you call it.

this is why I belong to Reduser.net
thanks again.
 
Would it be possible to post some examples of this process?
I have been doing all of my long exposure time-lapse work with DSLR's and would welcome the ability (knowledge) to use my Epic for long exposure TL as well.
To date I have been limited to 1fps with a 360 shutter.
 
REDONE-MX take Time laps?
 
"RED- Please issue a timelapse calculator for RED."
 
Loved everything about it, from the grade to the treatment to the moves. One can imagine the brief for a job like that could lead to all sorts of 'flat' interpretations but you guys made it sing. Very impressed. Also insanely jealous :)
 
So, the other night, it was incredibly clear and a perfect temperature, so I took my Scarlet, sat it outside on my deck, pointed it at the stars, and TimeLapsed. 16 1-second exposures, Frame Summed. And I got this (the bit of brightness at the beginning that fades out towards the center is the remainder of the sunset. Ignore it, and just look at the noise remaining after it fades):

http://youtu.be/zrjz_W4j2Ko

Now, for this particular export, I've cranked the contrast WAY up, so that it's easier to see what's going on. I think that those constant green and red spots are noise. I did blackshade the camera after I set the exposure length and amount of frames to be summed, but I did so after the camera was on for about a minute. I think what happened is that I didn't wait for the sensor to get up to temperature before blackshading. Would love if someone could confirm that thought?

I'd like to try again in a few days; there's supposed to be a meteor shower, the "Brightest of the year" on the 12th and 13th. This one was shot with my Contax-Zeiss 50 1.7. The only thing I have that's wider is either the CZ 35 2.8, or the CZ 35-70 3.4. Well, I also have a crappy Canon stills kit zoom, 18-135 3.5-5.6, but it's soft and abberates and is just BLAH (Canon makes some nice glass. This particular lens is not one with that distinction). So, I think my best bet is the 50 (even though I'd love to get wider) because as it is, the amount of light for exposure was kind of low. I did a little bit of research, and for this same meteor shower last year, the suggestion is shoot 25-30 second exposures at a higher ISO. Which I can't do on Red.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I'm going to what to get this right on the first shot if I actually try it.
 
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