Arnold F.
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Perhaps someone could direct me to some timelapse resources either specifically for the Scarlet or that, although meant for other other cameras, might nevertheless be applicable.
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Timelapse
- Thread starter Arnold F.
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Carelton Holt
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Hey Arnold,
Below are a couple of pretty good links to some basic and beyond time lapse sites. They discuss working with RAW images, so in that respect apply to the RED. A few tips that work for us are as follows:
1. Flicker (assuming you are working with still camera lenses): One of the problems with many still lenses used in Time Lapse is image flicker from frame to frame. This is generally caused by the slight variations in the aperture from frame to frame. This is more problematic shooting with a DSLR since camera controlled lenses go back to full open aperture between shots and it can vary slightly each frame, even when set to a consistent f-stop. A fix for this is to use a fully mechanical lens. Once set, the aperture will not vary. Even then, the exact speed of the shutter can also vary slightly creating a similar but less pronounced effect. There are several post processes that can deal with Flicker in After Effects if it is present.
With the Scarlet, I am hoping the aperture of our EOS lenses remain pretty constant since it is controlled by the camera and not subject to returning to full open between exposures. You should be able to set a project at 24fps and a low frame rate and actually see your time lapse play in real time during playback. I'm not sure about flicker, but it would be understandable if it were present slightly due to slight variations in the "shutter speed" established electronically by the camera. Even the tiniest of variations result in slight flicker.
2. Use a really sturdy tripod! You would be shocked how even a pretty solid tripod shows wind, floor, vibration and other motion issues. If possible, get away from the camera during the time lapse for something really smooth.
3. Try a tilt/shift lens (like a lens baby) for some cool miniature effects. Fun and even sometimes commercially viable.
Anyway, the links below cover a lot of this info. Good luck... The link below recommends a couple of really good flicker removing applications as well.
A Couple of Pretty Good Links:
http://philipbloom.net/2012/01/24/raw-workflow-for-timelapse/
www.timescapes.org
Below are a couple of pretty good links to some basic and beyond time lapse sites. They discuss working with RAW images, so in that respect apply to the RED. A few tips that work for us are as follows:
1. Flicker (assuming you are working with still camera lenses): One of the problems with many still lenses used in Time Lapse is image flicker from frame to frame. This is generally caused by the slight variations in the aperture from frame to frame. This is more problematic shooting with a DSLR since camera controlled lenses go back to full open aperture between shots and it can vary slightly each frame, even when set to a consistent f-stop. A fix for this is to use a fully mechanical lens. Once set, the aperture will not vary. Even then, the exact speed of the shutter can also vary slightly creating a similar but less pronounced effect. There are several post processes that can deal with Flicker in After Effects if it is present.
With the Scarlet, I am hoping the aperture of our EOS lenses remain pretty constant since it is controlled by the camera and not subject to returning to full open between exposures. You should be able to set a project at 24fps and a low frame rate and actually see your time lapse play in real time during playback. I'm not sure about flicker, but it would be understandable if it were present slightly due to slight variations in the "shutter speed" established electronically by the camera. Even the tiniest of variations result in slight flicker.
2. Use a really sturdy tripod! You would be shocked how even a pretty solid tripod shows wind, floor, vibration and other motion issues. If possible, get away from the camera during the time lapse for something really smooth.
3. Try a tilt/shift lens (like a lens baby) for some cool miniature effects. Fun and even sometimes commercially viable.
Anyway, the links below cover a lot of this info. Good luck... The link below recommends a couple of really good flicker removing applications as well.
A Couple of Pretty Good Links:
http://philipbloom.net/2012/01/24/raw-workflow-for-timelapse/
www.timescapes.org
Jon Carr
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Lowest frame rate you can go is 1fps, lowest shutter is 1/1. So keep that in mind. Black shading is always a good idea when you change your shutter speed that much.
First time-lapse test I did with my scarlet from my apartment roof, NYC skyline.
http://vimeo.com/36752134
First time-lapse test I did with my scarlet from my apartment roof, NYC skyline.
http://vimeo.com/36752134
Brian Pascale
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My understanding of it is that you can get this cable: http://www.red.com/store/cables/product/3bnc-to-00-lemo-sync-cable, and then use a third party intervalometer to control the shutter rate. That way you can set it for less than one frame per second. Haven't tired this yet, but will be buying the cable soon and will see if my MX2 or Little Vamper will work with the Scarlet.