Tilta nucleus M handle setup on RED weapon - Thoughts?

[Kerry Lofton]

Was looking at getting the dsmc2 side handle but have been also looking into tilta nucleus m setup that is a handle and focus motor. At $599 for the package, that’s not bad to have a wireless follow focus setup that can be adapted in many different situations. Was wondering if anyone has experience running a setup like this. Pic of what I’m thinking for reference is attached (using the tilta handle in place of the red handle)

 

[Ethan_Cole]

I’m running the DSMC2 side handle on the right and the Tilta handle on the left. $599 does not include the $150 brackets or the $40 batteries. Just so you know the cost! I will post a pic tomorrow on my Monstro.

 

[Josh Birch]

I've got the Tilta Nucleus M but never got round to rigging the handles like this. Mainly because I need to buy the additional bracket first.

 

[Andrew Reese]

No need for special rigging.....If you own a Nucleus-M kit and you are not running a Nucleus-M handle on the side of your DSMC2 cam you guys are really missing out. Pulling focus as as single op, especially with long throw (300 degree) cinema lenses is much better hand held with a remote FF than mechanical follow focus wheel or by hand gripping the lens. Even handheld on my smaller Leica-R and Canon FD cine-mod sets I still prefer to pull focus using the Nucleus-M handgrip and motors as its more stable than grabbing the lens or turning a mechanical focus wheel. I run Nucleus-M motors on all my jobs and the hand grips that come with the kit mount right to my DSMC2 Gemini with just a small bolt on Arri-rosette on my top plate. I also use GDU quick release plates on my shoulder rig, ronin, tripod, and helix for moving the camera between different supports/stabilizers. I have arri rosette mounts on my shoulder rig handles, ronin has side rosette mounts on the handlebars, and the helix I adapted the handgrip to a rosette mount. Therefore within less than 20-seconds I can go from shoulder rig to tripod or gimbal while consistently maintaining my FF connection and ability to pull focus as a single op no matter how I am shooting. I can also have an AC pull from a monitor using the larger wheeled controller included with the Nucleus-M kit or even let them use the handgrip. The last thing I want to do is take the time between shots on set to remove bolt on accessory. I actually leave my FF motor installed on my cam all the time even when I put it away in my Cinebag or F-stop bag so basically all I have to do is pull my camera out, click into the GDU quick release and attach the Nucleus-M handgrip to the rosette on the preferred method of shooting (brain, shoulder rig, gimbal, tripod, etc.) and power on and I am ready to go as a single op. Shots handheld with the focus handgrip become much more stable (even without a readyrig) as you can balance the camera with the hand you usually would use to pull focus while using the other hand to trigger record / pull focus simultaneously. You can also trigger record with the Nucleus-M handgrips on DSCM2 bodies as well so there are really a lot of advantages to it.

If you want to see pics of various setups check out this google drive link of BTS shots from a recent shoot.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pZ-SzbyL8fcmtUTCL65Lj0USqcsSDQoH?usp=sharing

 

[Josh Birch]

Very nice man, what Arri rosette adapter is that you've got for it?

 

[Ethan_Cole]

Here is what I have going on..... got 5 handles!

 

[Mike P.]

Does anyone have an extra handle they’re trying to sell? I have a Nucleus Nano, and really wanted to get it up and running with a handle finger/thumb wheel.

It’s kinda infuriating; tilta offer a bunch of handles that use NPFs and LP-E6s to directly power and control their motors, but they’re for the BMPs/EZ cams only. They’re actually substantially cheaper than the M-handles too.

 

[Andrew Reese]

Here are links to Arri rosette mounts that I have. Pretty much both the same thing.

https://www.adorama.com/cmvc2037.ht...leAHaEAQYBiABEgKh_PD_BwE&utm_source=adl-gbase

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...MI9O7u0sPO6gIVT77ACh361Q3WEAQYAiABEgJVQ_D_BwE

 

[Kerry Lofton]

I had lost hope on this thread but I’m glad it exploded with some amazing advice from some amazing individuals. I’m going to make the jump. I don’t want to use the pass through top plate...anybody know of another good mounting solution for the arri rosette? Was checking this out but don’t know if it interferes with the connections on top

https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-top-plate-for-red-dsmc2-1748.html

 

[Andrew Reese]

I had lost hope on this thread but I’m glad it exploded with some amazing advice from some amazing individuals. I’m going to make the jump. I don’t want to use the pass through top plate...anybody know of another good mounting solution for the arri rosette? Was checking this out but don’t know if it interferes with the connections on top

https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-top-plate-for-red-dsmc2-1748.html

Yea just get that SmallRig version which is open in the front or the one I think RED sells that is non-pass through but leaves the front pogo pins open for a monitor. I have worried about the WC top plate too but so far mine has been rock solid.

 

[Kerry Lofton]

Going to end up going with the camvate top plate. That smallrig blocks the connection for the outrigger handle

 

[Ingo Schmoll]

No need for special rigging.....If you own a Nucleus-M kit and you are not running a Nucleus-M handle on the side of your DSMC2 cam you guys are really missing out. Pulling focus as as single op, especially with long throw (300 degree) cinema lenses is much better hand held with a remote FF than mechanical follow focus wheel or by hand gripping the lens. Even handheld on my smaller Leica-R and Canon FD cine-mod sets I still prefer to pull focus using the Nucleus-M handgrip and motors as its more stable than grabbing the lens or turning a mechanical focus wheel. I run Nucleus-M motors on all my jobs and the hand grips that come with the kit mount right to my DSMC2 Gemini with just a small bolt on Arri-rosette on my top plate. I also use GDU quick release plates on my shoulder rig, ronin, tripod, and helix for moving the camera between different supports/stabilizers. I have arri rosette mounts on my shoulder rig handles, ronin has side rosette mounts on the handlebars, and the helix I adapted the handgrip to a rosette mount. Therefore within less than 20-seconds I can go from shoulder rig to tripod or gimbal while consistently maintaining my FF connection and ability to pull focus as a single op no matter how I am shooting. I can also have an AC pull from a monitor using the larger wheeled controller included with the Nucleus-M kit or even let them use the handgrip. The last thing I want to do is take the time between shots on set to remove bolt on accessory. I actually leave my FF motor installed on my cam all the time even when I put it away in my Cinebag or F-stop bag so basically all I have to do is pull my camera out, click into the GDU quick release and attach the Nucleus-M handgrip to the rosette on the preferred method of shooting (brain, shoulder rig, gimbal, tripod, etc.) and power on and I am ready to go as a single op. Shots handheld with the focus handgrip become much more stable (even without a readyrig) as you can balance the camera with the hand you usually would use to pull focus while using the other hand to trigger record / pull focus simultaneously. You can also trigger record with the Nucleus-M handgrips on DSCM2 bodies as well so there are really a lot of advantages to it.

If you want to see pics of various setups check out this google drive link of BTS shots from a recent shoot.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pZ-SzbyL8fcmtUTCL65Lj0USqcsSDQoH?usp=sharing

Do you still need to use the hand controller (FIZ) everytime you want to calibrate the motors to a new lense or can you do that using the handles only too? Thanks!

 

[Nathan Ryan]

Do you still need to use the hand controller (FIZ) everytime you want to calibrate the motors to a new lense or can you do that using the handles only too? Thanks!

Motor has the ability to trigger calibration directly, no controller needed. It's the fastest way since you are already in there changing the lens, just trigger the calibration once the new lens is secured and mated with the motor! (it's the down arrow marked with CAL)