Tilta Armorman II advice

[Dominik Bauch]

Hi,

Trying out the Armor man II exoskeleton with the Tilta Gravity and a approx 8lb camera / Lens payload.

Anyone have any advice on how to get best results? Out of the box it seemed like the springs were set for a heavier payload so the resting position for the gimbal was almost at eye level. I decreased the spring tension on both arms and now the rig sits more naturally.
But, it seems very prone to vertical bobbing as I walk. What is the best way to minimize this? Any ideas?

Also what is the best way to hold the handles? The rig has a tendency to tilt forward. Can this be minimized with making the dovetail arm parts shorter or longer?

Thanks in advance for any advice / help.

Dom

 

[Chris McKechnie]

When walking, try rolling onto your feet - don't walk flat footed.

In terms of the spring tension...less is more. You want it to move easily up and down, but not have the tension so high that it lifts right up when you let go.

Also, when holding the gimbal...have a very light grip on the handles. If you grip it tightly, you're transferring more movement to the gimbal which isn't what you want.

Hope that helps!

 

[Tim Daust]

I have found with smaller payloads like that I need to loosen the two knobs on each arm. If you have ever used a steadicam I try to get it to float as much as possible rather than lift.

however in my experience , the tilta armorman 2 inst the best for achieving smooth motion for walking. I think its made more for stamina for long takes or shooting for long periods at a time. I personally have been using the AM2 for rehersals and blocking then using just the gravity for the actual takes. anytime I use the AM2 I get unwanted bobbing unlike when I operate the gimbal solo.

as far as holding the handles I just hold the knobs that the handles sit inside of most of the time. with my thumb and pointer fingers mostly.

hope this helps

 

[Tim Daust]

When walking, try rolling onto your feet - don't walk flat footed.

In terms of the spring tension...less is more. You want it to move easily up and down, but not have the tension so high that it lifts right up when you let go.

Also, when holding the gimbal...have a very light grip on the handles. If you grip it tightly, you're transferring more movement to the gimbal which isn't what you want.

Hope that helps!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ what Chris said

 

[Dominik Bauch]

Thanks for advice guys. I've seen some armorman clips online and was super impressed with results. Kind of hoping that there is a way to make it work for my arms sake...!

Chris, re light grip on handles, when you let go of the handles do the cups make the gimbal tilt or does the gimbal stay pretty level?

 

[Chris McKechnie]

Thanks for advice guys. I've seen some armorman clips online and was super impressed with results. Kind of hoping that there is a way to make it work for my arms sake...!

Chris, re light grip on handles, when you let go of the handles do the cups make the gimbal tilt or does the gimbal stay pretty level?

The cups are meant to give fluidity. Their version 1 arms weren't deep enough and were locked in...were more like a small little cup affixed to the arm itself. The V2 with the moveable cups is much better. You can let go...the gimbal will move a bit but it won't fall out like the V1 could have. Typically, I'd have my fingers on the actual gimbal handles, not the cups, again, with a very light contact.

 

[Jamon Lewis]

Really helpful info Chris & Tim

 

[Anton Esteban]

I do have a question about the tension settings for the different springs. Do you find that you change the tension equally or do you have different settings for each? For example, do you keep the spring closer to the body more tense than the one closer to your hands or do you adjust them equally.

On another note, I have problems with my back and I've found this pad really helps with Lumbar support which I find lacking in the Armor Man 2. Its not the sexiest thing but it helps.

http://gokhalemethod.com/stretchsit