Steadicam Flyer questions

[ericyoung]

If you keep the camera to subject distance fairly constant and depth of field as deep as possible then you can often do without FF. A whip exerts enough torque that it'll force the Steadicam operator to grip the post - significantly compromising the isolation required for good Steadicam operation. YMMV.

 

[Tom Wills]

Steadicam LE kit for sale:
http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=55723

That's not a Flyer LE. It's a second-generation Flyer, but it still has the 15 pound weight limit. The LE has a carbon fiber post (which is matte finished, not shiny like that aluminum one), and has a telescoping adjustment near the bottom of the post. The arm also looks slightly different. Now, in terms of that 15 pound limit for the original arm - it's not too concrete. Some arms have a bit more strength in them, and if you could smartly place some weight near the bottom of the rig, you might be able to push it by a few pounds. You're still in the danger-zone trying to fly a RED on one of these, but perhaps not as direly as you would think.

I think the main 'solution' for me, is to use the Red battery belt clip system, then take everything else off the body. Just fly the Red, the lens, buy some shorter rails and use a FF... and the monitor.

Here is another question... CF cards. What are people using? I can't imagine it's only the Red brand. Currently we're using the Red drives. Thats another thing I'll have to mount to my body to make this thing light enough. Can you guys point me in the right CF direction?

A few things here set off red flags for me. You cannot mount anything off of the rig on your body, and have a cable going to it. Even a super-thin BNC cable is enough to disturb your operating on a rig that light. The general rule is that as the rig gets lighter, the operator's touch needs to get lighter, and the rig gets less immune to outside forces. A thick cable, like a power cable, or especially a drive cable, will make your life miserable as an operator.

Just don't do it. Record to CF cards - that's a necessity - and get a power cable to power the camera off the sled. If you're not comfortable with the sled's wiring, just run a cable down from the front of the camera to the top of the monitor, and then back to the batteries. Really, all you should need on the top of the sled is the camera body, a lens, a single rod (something short and lightweight) and one focus motor, the wireless follow focus receiver, and a downconverter. If you've got light glass, you could probably make it happen in 15 (give or take a few) pounds.

Focus will be an issue. I'm thinking I'll look into renting a wireless unit. For some of the stuff I need the steadicam for in the immediate future, its actually just 'walking' shots... out doors... nice wide apertures... no real focus pulls. I do have a 2ft whip we could probably use if we're careful.

You certainly can try to work without a wireless follow focus, but they're pretty cheap in the long run. A DP I work with just picked up one for $2600, including motors and cables, used. It's the kind of accessory you don't only have to use on the Steadicam too - I know we're going to be using his a lot for handheld and dolly stuff. Plus, if you have it, you can rent it to other people. I know that even up here in Buffalo a Bartech with motor goes for $125 a day. The whip, as Eric said, is also a big no-no. If you'd like more information on why exactly this is, I can go into the physics for you, but it's probably best just left at a "You shouldn't do that" for now.

All in all, if you really want to do Steadicam, you have to think about it as an investment. You're going to have to have rental rates on the gear, and up your rates as an operator if you want it to make you any money. Also, when you get it, you will be absolutely amazed by how much skill it takes to operate it. I think taking a workshop to learn the fundamentals is a real necessity, and even with that, you've still got tons of practice to do. (And tons of hours of annoying your girlfriend by chasing her around the backyard! :001_tt2: )

I know that it's not a "popular" thing to say in this day and age of do-it-yourself everything, but hiring an operator is a really great choice. When you think about it, most pro operators have been working for years, if not decades, solely on this skill. The really good ones are masters of their craft, and the tools they bring to the table mean you never, ever have to think about whether the next shot is going to require a lens a bit too heavy, or require a piece of gear you don't have. I guess the real decision comes down to - do you want to be an operator, or do you just want to make a film?

Hope this all helps. And if you ever need a Steadicam operator in the Central or Western NY region, hit me up. (Shameless self promotion, I know, but I've got a new rig to pay off!)

 

[ericyoung]

That's not a Flyer LE. It's a second-generation Flyer, but it still has the 15 pound weight limit. The LE has a carbon fiber post (which is matte finished, not shiny like that aluminum one), and has a telescoping adjustment near the bottom of the post. The arm also looks slightly different.

Now, in terms of that 15 pound limit for the original arm - it's not too concrete. Some arms have a bit more strength in them, and if you could smartly place some weight near the bottom of the rig, you might be able to push it by a few pounds. You're still in the danger-zone trying to fly a RED on one of these, but perhaps not as direly as you would think...

Oops. I didn't check the advert closely - although how do you know, there aren't any pictures!

There is some leeway in the 15lb limit, and that includes the weight of the two batteries at the bottom. You can replace the non-active battery with other kit.

If you don't mind an outboard cable (the longer Red LCD cable, 18" is too short) you can actually mount the Red Pro 7" LCD in place of the Flyer's SD monitor. You'll have to either have the cable pulled tight or secured to stop it flopping around.

If you're technically competent, you can make an adapter cable to power the camera from the sled. Get the V-mount version and you can use Red batteries (but without the battery information). *** NOTE: if you make the adapter cable that the Red Camera requires the same DC volts of the correct polarity on TWO PAIRS of pins in the 6 pin Lemo power connector. If you fail to do so, you will damage an expensive power board in the camera!! ***

I was able to use a Red Drive on the camera, but only by gaffer taping it directly to the body, rather than using any sort of mounting, to save weight.

I used lightweight stills lenses rather than cine lenses, but some lightweight cine lenses may work.

 

[Frank_L]

Can alter the Epic lenses focusing with a Redmote or is that not possible? Anyone know? Also the Varizoom wireless follow focus. Will that work with Epic? Thanks.