Some Questions About 80C and 80D Filters

[Jonathan Salvia]

I've read about the need to use 80 series filters when shooting Red under tungsten light. My question is whether you shoot with 80D or 80C in studio conditions with tungsten light (I'm using Kino Flo Parabeam 400s)? Is there an improvement from 80D to 80C?



Jon

 

[Michael Notar]

just slight color variations between the two, slightly more or less color conversion. you will need alot of tungsten light to blast through those filters! i personally dont use those filters, i denoise a little in post but its not bad without. i have also heard of people shooting iso 320 in tungsten light and getting better results (i believe without any filtration).

 

[Brian F Kobylarz]

If you are not mixing other tungsten lighting, you might consider swapping out the bulbs in the Parabeam.
The 55 watt, 4500 lumen Kino KF55 tube fits and is daylight balanced at 5500K.
I use these in both my Parabeam and ARRI Studio Cools with excellent results. (They also fit the Diva's)

RED's sensors like daylight sources more than tungsten - adding a filter compensates - but with several compromises.

If you are mixing sources with room practicals there are a number of options on the market now to bring them up to daylight temps...

 

[Jonathan Salvia]

Thanks for the replies Michael and Brian.

Michael, I have noticed a definite improvement using the 80D as opposed to not. I've also been shooting iso 320 regardless of filter or not.

Brian, agreed that daylight balanced lights are the way to go. However, I don't have the option of switching out the bulbs in this situation. Its extremely low budget and the lights are what they are. However, the good part is that I'm not mixing with any other color temp/light source. I've got a couple of different arri fresnels I can throw into the mix but I haven't bothered yet.

 

[Jonathan Salvia]

Brian, after doing a quick google search of prices on the bulbs you mentioned...I might suggest this to the client. I didn't realize how inexpensive they were.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[Michael Notar]

i realize the filters are good in theory, which i believe, but i find it overly impractical to use them due to a heavy heavy filter factor under what is usually low light. then you add iso 320 onto of it. im talking from using iso 800, trying to get f2.8-4, hopefully more and usually 1/30th shutter. im lighting with a few kino divas 4 and 2 tube lights, and 1.2k HMI. curious to know what your doing to pull it off. I'm really interested in bettering the quality of the footage. i have noticed noise even when shooting outdoor at iso 800, whens there is lots of light for the sensor and its all daylight.

 

[Brian F Kobylarz]

Jonathan - if you go ahead and order the daylight bulbs, I would suggest adding their 6-bulb carrying case: Kino Flo's # KAS-CL6. Retails for about 40 bucks.
This will allow you to have a full set of daylight and tungsten bulbs with room for a spare of each with the Parabeam.

As added fuel for thought - I sometimes intentionally "mix" the bulb types - for example (3) of the daylight & (1) of the tungsten - just to warm it up a tad. Depends on the existing scene and look desired.

Also, if you remove the front grate, then the plastic diffuser - you should find a removable thin metal frame. Easy to tape a gel onto the frame for some color correction.