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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

SLR Magic APO HyperPrime mini review

Thanks so much for these fantastic tests Ericsson! Appreciate you working my shots in too. I was wondering the same thing about the color variance being specific to my copies, but seeing your swatches does seem to indicate that it's a general issue.

The exposure difference is unfortunate, but pretty straightforward to compensate for. The different color tone and character across each lens is a bigger deal for me. I do a lot of 2 camera interview work for clients who don't do much by way of color correction.
 
Yes, thanks to both Ericsson and Joe, these are awesome tests.

I confess to not really being too big of shooting charts these days, but they are useful to know. If i get a chance i will try as well.

I'm wondering if the consistency is the same across the iris range - in that you could argue that the Iris's are aligned slightly differently on all the lenses. Yes, WO then that is a fixed point but closing down then there's wiggle room for error...

cheers
Paul
 
Yeah, I'm not sure, but word back from John at SLR Magic is that my tests are consistent with other user's feedback, and normal.... so I think these results are to be expected.

If you look at my swatch with matched tone/exposure, it almost looks like a gradient going green as it goes wider. Why is this? I don't know, someone smarter than I would have to pop in, but my very, very undeducated guess is that the lenses are actually coated the same, but are not being corrected/adjusted to match color between each lens design. I also did a wb on grey in lightroom of all the lenses at 2.8, and here are my results:
25: 4950k +44tint
32: 5100k+36tint
50: 5200k +32tint
85: 5350k +40tint
18-35: 5250k +30tint
70-200: 5500k +36tint

For reference, I think it is important to look at this chart I found from the Salt III test of other lens' color/tone variation - http://www.artbyphil.com/phfx/dib/saltIII/bigs/phfx_HSSALT_ColorAndTonalConsistency.jpg

I think the SLR Magics are obviously not as consistent as the master primes, or leica c series, but they seem to compare well against some of the others.

I had considered the Sigma or Tokina lenses as well, and would love to test how consistent they are when we rent for a shoot possibly. That said, in blind tests, I've never really gravitated towards the Sigma & Tokina image, thus I went with the Hyperprimes. I might have went Otus, but being stuck in EF mount is an issue. Anyway, despite my chart results, I am still really happy with the Hyperprimes in real life shooting.... its just good to know how the lens act.
 
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I had considered the Sigma or Tokina lenses as well, and would love to test how consistent they are when we rent for a shoot possibly. That said, in blind tests, I've never really gravitated towards the Sigma & Tokina image, thus I went with the Hyperprimes. I might have went Otus, but being stuck in EF mount is an issue. Anyway, despite my chart results, I am still really happy with the Hyperprimes in real life shooting.... its just good to know how the lens act.

I think that's the point. They just look great in most situations.

Most work will be graded, so it's not such a huge issue.

Are you shooting on Red as well? I do wonder whether the camera has an influence. I know that not everyone here is shooting on Red.

I did some stuff fairly recently on an 85 in a theatre. It was just so nice to look at, was really happy in some super challenging conditions. If i can, i'll post some frames but this time i don't own the copyright. So need to get permission first!

cheers
Paul
 
I wonder if keeping a CC10M or similar filter permanently on the 25mm at all times would be a good idea.

It's so easy to tweak the RAW image either way so it's probably not worth it.

BUT

SLRMagic do an image enhancer filter. Mine did have these on but i took them off. So i'm wondering whether they have an effect on the tint?

http://www.slrmagic.info/product/77mm+Image+Enhancer+Pro+Filter

I have no idea where mine are at the moment - must hunt them down...

cheers
Paul
 
It's so easy to tweak the RAW image either way so it's probably not worth it.l

If you're managing your own post-production, sure.

But this is the same reason people fought for the latest line of "neutral" ND filters coming out from lots of companies. It's nice to have that piece of mind that everything you put onto the sensor is going to have a visual consistency to it. I have one regular ND filter that I always have to remember to dial out 10 or so green points and add 500K to get the color to match. Not hard by any means, but that'd be one less thing I have to remember to do.
 
I think that's the point. They just look great in most situations.

Most work will be graded, so it's not such a huge issue.

Are you shooting on Red as well? I do wonder whether the camera has an influence. I know that not everyone here is shooting on Red.

I did some stuff fairly recently on an 85 in a theatre. It was just so nice to look at, was really happy in some super challenging conditions. If i can, i'll post some frames but this time i don't own the copyright. So need to get permission first!

cheers
Paul

Thanks Paul, yeah I should clarify that I really do love the lens' look, more so than the Sigma Cine (from the comparisions I've seen so far ymmv).

These tests were shot with a Canon DSLR as raw stills for ease, but what drew me to even doing them was seeing variance between setups whilst shooting Varicam LT. Definitely the camera sensor will affect the lens signature, but I was mostly looking at variance between lens' for this test, which should still be apparent despite camera to some degree or another.

To reiterate, I am loving the lens character in real life shoots, but in some scenarios knowing how it acts in terms of tone/luminance and color is important and saves time in post (especially when I'm not doing post!). Also, for people who may be scared off by these lens' because of this test, please don't be. They are beautiful lens', and even much more expensive lens' aren't perfectly matched (as seen in the chart below again from the reduser salt iii test)... although I would be extremely happy if the APO's matched as well as Master Primes and Summilux C's :)

33044589798_32e8f9713c_b.jpg
 
Any thoughts on using the APO lenses in L mount full frame cameras like the new Panasonic S1?

There are third party adaptors from PL to L mount and EF to L mount.

I was planning on buying 2 Eva1's but am toying with the idea of one or both of them being S1's since it supports 4k 10 bit and Vlog, has higher iso and can obviously be used for stills.
 
Can someone recommend a good Push-in Lens cap for the 50mm (The lens front cap included is horrible, even the back cap feels so plasticky).
 
Any thoughts on using the APO lenses in L mount full frame cameras like the new Panasonic S1?

There are third party adaptors from PL to L mount and EF to L mount.

I was planning on buying 2 Eva1's but am toying with the idea of one or both of them being S1's since it supports 4k 10 bit and Vlog, has higher iso and can obviously be used for stills.

I see no reason why they wouldn't work (you can see a small amount of edge of lens in FF on a Sony A7sII on the 25mm in the corners, so compare the physical sensor size with that - this is stills full frame on that camera). The only thing i'd say would be shooting cine lens on a stills camera is a bit of an ergonomic nightmare. Just not very comfortable - having a full focus throw and manually focusing yourself can be difficult. I prefer small rangefinder lenses. But it's a personal thing of course. I think they'd work fine.

cheers
Paul
 
I'd build it myself using https://mycasebuilder.com/ . Alternatively, I'm pretty sure Jasoncases would be happy to put something together with you.

I have those Leica caps from Duclos, but I've since switched to normal 82mm pinch on lens caps because I'm afraid of people accidentally picking up the lens by the cap, and it slipping out YMMV. They look very nice though, and they do fit pretty securely, but they can slip out if you don't make a point to 1. secure the lens in the cap fully, and 2. pick up the lens a bit more carefully/purposefully (just like almost any push on cap, except maybe the more expensive acetate ones from Duclos and TLS). Because they are deeper than normal caps, the tempatation to grab on to the lens by the cap is greater just in my experience. Still nice, but I'd rather the pinch ons personally. Anyway, if you're interested in buying a few, pm me I may just sell mine.

Best PL rear cap I've ever used is the True Lens Service one which has an O-Ring seal to help prevent the cap from loosening accidentally. I think Duclos sells the same one as well. I think the SLR Magic rear cap is pretty good though.... I think I recall reading that it used to actually be a nicer looking aluminum version, but early user feedback is that people preferred plastic so it didn't wear on the titanium ring, which makes sense.
 
I'd build it myself using https://mycasebuilder.com/ . Alternatively, I'm pretty sure Jasoncases would be happy to put something together with you.

I have those Leica caps from Duclos, but I've since switched to normal 82mm pinch on lens caps because I'm afraid of people accidentally picking up the lens by the cap, and it slipping out YMMV. They look very nice though, and they do fit pretty securely, but they can slip out if you don't make a point to 1. secure the lens in the cap fully, and 2. pick up the lens a bit more carefully/purposefully (just like almost any push on cap, except maybe the more expensive acetate ones from Duclos and TLS). Because they are deeper than normal caps, the tempatation to grab on to the lens by the cap is greater just in my experience. Still nice, but I'd rather the pinch ons personally. Anyway, if you're interested in buying a few, pm me I may just sell mine.

Best PL rear cap I've ever used is the True Lens Service one which has an O-Ring seal to help prevent the cap from loosening accidentally. I think Duclos sells the same one as well. I think the SLR Magic rear cap is pretty good though.... I think I recall reading that it used to actually be a nicer looking aluminum version, but early user feedback is that people preferred plastic so it didn't wear on the titanium ring, which makes sense.

Thanks for the recommendations!
 
Thanks for the recommendation Paul

Likewise, anyone here found a quality case/foam solution for housing 4 lenses?

I got the SLRMagic 4 lens case when I bought my set from Hotrodcameras. I do not think it's officially on the market but you can call/email them and get it.
 
I'm experiencing an issue that a few others have noted in this thread. I just got my 32mm brand new from Hot Rod about a week ago. Have not used it on any shoots yet and have barely taken it out of the box. Lens didn't look like it had been previously handled

I was focusing by hand, and noticed when magnified-in 1:1 that the frame seemed to shift. The shift happens when changing direction (pushing to pulling and vice versa) independent of where in the focus range it's in. I tested locked off on sticks with a wireless follow focus to eliminate variables. The PL mount is solid without issues. The lens housing does not wiggle or move at all when this issue occurs, it seems to be all internal in the optics. All the mechanics still feel great and focus ring stops solidly at each hard stop

https://vimeo.com/316167213/33db82c966

Ericsson San Pablo Chu and Jake Wilganowski noted similar issues. Were you able to contact at SLR Magic to arrange repair? Or should I request an exchange with Hot Rod?
 
I'm experiencing an issue that a few others have noted in this thread. I just got my 32mm brand new from Hot Rod about a week ago. Have not used it on any shoots yet and have barely taken it out of the box. Lens didn't look like it had been previously handled

I was focusing by hand, and noticed when magnified-in 1:1 that the frame seemed to shift. The shift happens when changing direction (pushing to pulling and vice versa) independent of where in the focus range it's in. I tested locked off on sticks with a wireless follow focus to eliminate variables. The PL mount is solid without issues. The lens housing does not wiggle or move at all when this issue occurs, it seems to be all internal in the optics. All the mechanics still feel great and focus ring stops solidly at each hard stop

https://vimeo.com/316167213/33db82c966

Ericsson San Pablo Chu and Jake Wilganowski noted similar issues. Were you able to contact at SLR Magic to arrange repair? Or should I request an exchange with Hot Rod?

Yikes. I'd try and go through Hot Rod first and see if they can swap you out.
 
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