Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

slow motion filcker?

greg filipkowski said:
Slow motion flicker? 300fps how do i adjust for it? I did tests with regular house lighting and get a lot of flicker. Is there lets just say a shutter spread I should be at?
florescence # tungsten #
Click to expand...


well at 100fps they say 300º.... so I would think about there should do....
 
You'll need some kinos or other high kHz ballast light to do high speed....

Course the sun seems to work ok as well.
 
300Fps means 1/300 or shorter shutter speed. Be prepared you´ll need quite an amount of light. Tungsten will perform quite well if sized from 2K and above as the thicker filament is too slow to follow the mains cycle. Also low voltage household lighting might be OK, especially when powered through electronic transformers. Standard fluorescent won´t work as the light outputs is instantly following the mains cycling, same with HMI and magnetic ballasts. HMI with electronic ballast will usually be OK for at least 120FPS, for high speed use like 300Fps in combination with a short shutter speed I would recommend thoroughly testing prior to shoot.

Cheers, Ulf
 
Your best bet is to test it all out beforehand. I recently did a slow motion shoot and lit almost every scene(couldn't use the sun...) I used 1.2K HMIs and 2K tungstens with full CTB. The HMIs had flicker free ballasts, but not high speed ballasts. The HMIs worked well right up until 160FPS or so. Most of my shots were in the 96-120FPS range, so I used the HMIs mostly. The 2K tungsten lights don't flicker at all though and I was able to crank the FPS way up with no problems. Before the shoot I spent a day going through frame rates, shutter speeds and light options to find the sweet spots with every light I was using. Also, make sure you check the playback as a lot of the flicker isn't visible when watching it "real time", but can be very obvious once you watch it playing back in slow motion.
 
Hey,

Obviously sticking to the American Cinematographer Flicker Free speeds are a good start. For 300fps+ shooting Ulf is totally correct. All tungsten heads on set and every head should be above 2K. Even the brand-new flicker free HMIs should only be used if each head can be taken to prep and tested individually. Tungsten 5Ks and bigger will be your friends

Good luck!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top