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Settings for Red

M

Michael Frymus

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When shooting on the Red, what REDcolour and REDgamma do you choose?
Which one is the best to achieve a flat look and keeping noise levels down?

Whenever I choose anything but the original REDcolour and REDgamma, I always get a lot of noise in my shots.
 
The colorspace and gammaspace are metadata and do not affect the data that is recorded.

At all.

They can be changed at any time along through post up until the R3D is converted to another format.

RedColor3 and RedGamma3 are usually best on set, as they show your client a little bit of the potential.

RedColor3 and RedLogFilm are best for a starting point for grading, as having log footage is preferred by any colorist and grading program.

But the metadata DOES NOT AFFECT THE DATA THAT IS RECORDED OFF THE SENSOR, IT ONLY AFFECTS THE WAY IT IS INTERPRETED AND THEN DISPLAYED. This is true for ISO, Colorspace, Kelvin, Tint, FLUT, Contrast, LGG wheels, the Curves, and more. The danger is that applying certain variables in camera will show you an image that may not be a good representation of what your actual data is recorded as. Which may lead to more or less noise, or clipping, or other problems.
 
Michael, If your getting that much noise you are grossly underexposing. Color and gamma space will not give more noise. They are basically a "look" applied to your RAW footage. Redcolor 3 and Redgamma 3 are the standard for shooting. Check your RAW view for under and overexposure.

Also make sure you don't have the monitor brightness jacked up high, that will cause the monitor to appear noisy. Also, remember that the sensor is native 5000k, so shooting in lighting below that color temp will introduce noise unless you compensate through on camera filtration or lighting filtration.
 
I'm getting the same issues. But in honesty I think the problem is that from what I read online that the sensor really craves a lot of light and I have been shooting only tests indoors in awful lighting. So if you are outdoors and properly exposing you probably will not have the same noise issues.
 
F4 at ISO800 with only practical (tungsten) lighting is a non-starter; it'll look like crap... Hell, even f2.8 wouldn't be fast enough for a completely clean image in most indoor, practically lit scenarios (unless you're right by a decent sized window).

Do yourself a favour and switch to RAW view and light until you get rid of the purple (without OVERexposing.) Only than will your images be guaranteed "clean." As mentioned, the only reason RG1, 2, and 3 look "cleaner" than, for example, RLF, is simply that they crush the blacks more which reduces the perceivable noise in the shadows.
 
It wasn't that underexposed.

And sometimes it is shot dark, and you cant help it. How do you deal with that then, being so grainy?
 
Michael Frymus said:
It wasn't that underexposed.

And sometimes it is shot dark, and you cant help it. How do you deal with that then, being so grainy?
Click to expand...

What ISO are you shooting at? If you are getting grainy footage, I would recommend shooting at 320 ISO (if you aren't already). We always look at the waveforms and try and "feed" the sensor as much as we can. We shoot on Scarlets and am happy to say our footage has been looking very, very clean. Even with Tungsten light.
 
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