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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Scarlet X Timelapse-Is it possible?

Guys, press and hold the frame rate button and a new menu that allows custom frame rates will be displayed. You can currently go as low as 1fps. The contextual menues show 8fps as the lowest w/o HDRx and 6fps with HDRx.

Anyway, I don't know why anyone gets in a panic over what people chose to do what. Personally I like the Scarlet for time-laps over my 7d.
 
I purchased the Scarlet because of it's versatility. I would like to have one camera I can use for most everything. I am looking forward to some extensive timelapse options.
 
Has anything changed since June? Is the slowest speed still 1fps?

I shoot timelapse with the 5D and it works great. The only reason I can think of using the Scarlet is so that I can use HDR, but I thought I read that it's not good for timelapse. If so, why?
 
The HDRx is the main reason why I use Scarlet for TLs. When it comes to TLs there is no difference between Scarlet and Epic.
Also - recently they have re-enabled 360˚ shutter - so You can shoot 5K HDRx at 1FPS with 360˚ shutter and then speed up in post without stutter...

Unlike DSLRs you are not killing the mechanical shutter and mirror assembly (which has limited life-time in the DSLRs) - this and the HDRx function is why I prefer Scarlet for TLs over DSLRs...

Peter
 
firmware 4 :)
Jarred Land said:
Build 4 is the big one coming.. December sometime. Power Management, 1:1 joystick zoom, long exposures, timelapse, pre-record and ramping are just some of the highlights... which also includes your image flip Will :)

For some people.. this is one of those builds that will be like a new camera all over again....
Click to expand...
 
I just shot a timelapse on my scarlet and came across a strange phenomenon which maybe someone can help explain to me and how to avoid in the future. I was exposing 1 frame per sec with an exposure time of 1/4 of a second. It was a cityscape going from dusk to night over about 30 minutes. As the sky got darker i started to see more and more small white spots in the darkest bits of the sky. Is this noise as the sensor struggles for light? If so how do i avoid it? Or is there another explanation for what i saw? And yes it did show up on the rushes - it wasnt just in the viewfinder. Anyone got some clues..? Thanks in advance
 
You need to blackshade for the same exposure. Were you using the standard 'factory' blackshade cal ?
 
Thanks Les and Peter - i had done a blackshade but only at 25fps - didnt realise i needed to redo - so in your opinion how often is a blackshade required to be done?
 
Jim Bishop said:
Thanks Les and Peter - i had done a blackshade but only at 25fps - didnt realise i needed to redo - so in your opinion how often is a blackshade required to be done?
Click to expand...

I think RED's advice was that blackshade should be done when you change the frame rates and whenever the ambient temperature changes significantly (ie. doing a shot inside in air conditioning and then you go outside to do an exterior on a hot day).

As far as I remember the best practice is to wait a few minutes first with the camera idling for the sensor temperature to warm up/cool down to the conditions but obviously this isn't always possible on set given time constraints...
 
You can definitely get great time lapses from the Scarlet. But the simple fact that you can only go as low as 1fps makes it not the best tools for the job. There are very few times that 1fps is the optimal interval for a time lapse. I would rather shoot my timelapses with a DSLR and leave my Scarlet or Epic open to do what it does best.
 
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