remote start/stop products?

[Anders Holck]

Stuart or Wes, is this correct?
(DON'T use these schematics until we have confirmation)

 

[Anders Holck]

Thanks.
Can't see your rough circuit, but I guess this is what you mean:

D1, is a green LED that is lit when he camera is on.

D2, is a red LED that will function as Tally, on the upper connector and as Frame recorded on the lower connector.

I reversed D2, that is correct right?

 

[Anders Holck]

Here is the Bartech cable:

 

[Stuart English]

GPI repost

GPI repost

Repost -

Almost, that LED should go back to Pin 4. The other connector pin out looks fine.

You might find it useful to connect a second LED to the circuit as illustrated in the rough circuit below - this provides feedback that the camera is powered up (green LED) and independently that the camera is currently recording / has completed a single frame recording (red LED)

 

[Anders Holck]

Ah, ok.
Of cause I need resistors in the path to limit the current thru the LED's
Regarding the transistor should I add the driver circuit or would my direct connected LED's work?

I have your circuit drawn up as well now.

 

[Michael Hastings]

Why both connectors on Bartech?

Why both connectors on Bartech?

Ah, ok.
Of cause I need resistors in the path to limit the current thru the LED's
Regarding the transistor should I add the driver circuit or would my direct connected LED's work?

I have your circuit drawn up as well now.

Anders/STuart why does the post on the Bartech show both connectors used. The reason I ask is the Birger mount will use one of the connectors - I tried to talk Erik into adding a simple trigger connector to his cable/mount but he has too much on his plate as far as getting the main unit done and doesn't want to add more right now.

I would like to have the tally LED's as well as the switch on our underwater housings - do you need both connectors for that?(Would obviously be a problem if Birger uses one.)

Also, if you could post or pm a drawing/pic of an actual circuit board and parts list it would be great - I would also be willing to pay a fee for such. I have friends that could do this for me but you guys seem to be on top of it already. I would also be happy to coop with someone to have a circuit board made at a board house.

 

[Jim Bartell]

Here is the Bartech cable:

Sorry, Anders, but that is not right. it is pins 2 & 4 on the BFD end, not 3 & 4. Pins 3 & 4 are both connected to relay common for backwards compatibility with the old Seitz systems. Pin 2 is normally open and closes (either momentarily or continuously, operator selectable) to run the camera. Pin 1 is not connected.

I sell this cable, P/N 5010, for $130.

Jim Bartell

 

[Anders Holck]

Thanks Jim.
I have corrected the diagram. Does it look correct now?

Pre-made cables are the best option and you have provided excellent service for my Bartech+Mone. I Just think these diagrams could come in handy in tight situations.

 

[BASSAM MSSALATIE]

I LIKE red and green Led lights idea .will some body do it ?:huh:

 

[Anders Holck]

Stewards design should look something like this:

[/IMG]

 

[Wes Printz]

Anders/STuart why does the post on the Bartech show both connectors used. The reason I ask is the Birger mount will use one of the connectors -

What you are looking at is the conection between the camera connector (LEMO 0S) on the Bartech, and the upper AUX connetor (LEMO 0B) on the camera. Still leaving the lower AUX port available.

The diagram Stuart posted would be simple enough to construct (for some).

 

[BASSAM MSSALATIE]

:huh: things going much complicated now :sad:

 

[Jim Bartell]

Correct schematic

Correct schematic

Thanks Jim.
I have corrected the diagram. Does it look correct now?

Pre-made cables are the best option and you have provided excellent service for my Bartech+Mone. I Just think these diagrams could come in handy in tight situations.

First, the revised schematic is correct. Second, I completely support getting the information out there. I mentioned that I have cables for those who dislike soldering, not because I don't support making your own cables. Actually, I hate making cables. It's tedious and boring, so I encourage everyone to make your own!

Jim Bartell

 

[Michael Hastings]

thanks and construction question

thanks and construction question

thanks a lot. Do I need a circuit board or could I put the transistor, zener etc in line and shrink wrap or encapsulate?

Stewards design should look something like this:

[/IMG]

 

[Wes Printz]

I mentioned that I have cables for those who dislike soldering, not because I don't support making your own cables. Actually, I hate making cables. It's tedious and boring, so I encourage everyone to make your own! Jim Bartell

I do know how much Jim hates making cables... I've made a lot for him and his end users over the years.
THANK YOU JIM!!

I enjoy the task, it can be tedious at times, and challenging.

thanks a lot. Do I need a circuit board or could I put the transistor, zener etc in line and shrink wrap or encapsulate?

No need for a Circuit board if done neat and clean, Yes, could be done in heat shrink.

 

[Anders Holck]

Another option is Veroboard.

Obviously the components in Stuarts design are SOT-23 SMD's so not easy to solder.
Im not an expert on this but I think you could make the following substitution for more handy components:

2N3904 instead of MMBT3904
BZX79C5V1 instead of MMBZ5231B

Stuart or Wes?

 

[Paul Lee]

This turned into a great thread. Thanks everyone!

By the way, how much damage could you do if you really screwed-up? Would the camera protect itself or could you actually do physical damage?

 

[Michael Hastings]

Any confirmation on this?

Any confirmation on this?

Another option is Veroboard.

Obviously the components in Stuarts design are SOT-23 SMD's so not easy to solder.
Im not an expert on this but I think you could make the following substitution for more handy components:

2N3904 instead of MMBT3904
BZX79C5V1 instead of MMBZ5231B

Stuart or Wes?

Any confirmation on this?

This turned into a great thread. Thanks everyone!

By the way, how much damage could you do if you really screwed-up? Would the camera protect itself or could you actually do physical damage?

And what about this?

 

[Wes Printz]

Another option is Veroboard.

Obviously the components in Stuarts design are SOT-23 SMD's so not easy to solder.
Im not an expert on this but I think you could make the following substitution for more handy components:

2N3904 instead of MMBT3904
BZX79C5V1 instead of MMBZ5231B

Stuart or Wes?

Anders, yes, those will work for those not working with SMDs you could use the 2N3904 (TO-92) and 1N4733 (DO-41). I'm sure any general purpose NPN amp and 5.1V, 1/2w Zener would work.

By the way, how much damage could you do if you really screwed-up? Would the camera protect itself or could you actually do physical damage?

Depends how badly you screwed-up... Feeding 12V back into the GPI or Tally pins could possibly release the smoke solid state devices require to operate properly. The protection on the AUX port is a 1A Current Limiter on the 12V Line, so a short to Ground, would trigger the CL into shut down mode until the load was removed, thus protecting the precious solid state smoke.

 

[Julien Lambert]

Repost -

Almost, that LED should go back to Pin 4. The other connector pin out looks fine.

You might find it useful to connect a second LED to the circuit as illustrated in the rough circuit below - this provides feedback that the camera is powered up (green LED) and independently that the camera is currently recording / has completed a single frame recording (red LED)

This plan is correct isn't it? I'm going to make this, so i want to make sure everything is fine.
Can you explain me what is the transistor made for?


Thanks. Julien