Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Redcode 28 vs 36

Phil Bates

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2007
Messages
685
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Website
www.artbeats.com
I have spent some time searching the forum couldn't find much on this topic (it's probably just buried). Sorry if I missed it and am being redundant.

Here is my question: Are you using Redcode 28 or 36 and why? Is it just clear division between those shooting 4K 24fps and those shooting 30fps? Is it just about quality or is it more complicated than that?

I am currently in Hawaii shooting large waves. Lots of dynamic action and fast moving detail. I wonder if I was unwise to shoot Redcode 28 yesterday. My reason is that I wanted 30fps at 4K. It's difficult to tell if there any issues by looking at my small laptop monitor.

Thanks,
Phil
http://www.artbeats.com
 
I would always shoot 36 if possible. That being said, I haven't been able to see any difference between the two in the tests I've performed. There are a few things that break the codec, tree bark, mottled metal. Neither redcode 28 or 36 can handle it. Let it be known that this is in certain circumstances. I'm not talking about all tree bark all the time or all frosted metal. It seems to be low contrast surfaces with intricate patterns in the 40-60 IRE range.
 
The infamous tree bark problem existed in early betas of version 16. It has been cured quite some time ago, I've never seen it again.
 
Depending on the subject you are shooting there can be a substantial difference in quality between RC28 and RC36. I had an exterior shot last week where i wish i had RC100! RC28 has to filter out more of the high frequency details than RC36 which will also give you a better blue and red channel.

Try to always shoot RC36 unless a higher framerate is a priority.

If you want to see the difference just shoot some high detail nature with both settings and then examine them in Redcine.
 
Depending on the subject you are shooting there can be a substantial difference in quality between RC28 and RC36. I had an exterior shot last week where i wish i had RC100! RC28 has to filter out more of the high frequency details than RC36 which will also give you a better blue and red channel.

Try to always shoot RC36 unless a higher framerate is a priority.

If you want to see the difference just shoot some high detail nature with both settings and then examine them in Redcine.
Exactly. It really depends what you are shooting. High motion, high detail looks much better in RC36 - but a low detail shot with little motion can look indistinguishable between RC28 and RC36.

Best approach is always - highest resolution and highest bit-rate possible - (4K 16:9/RC36) - then compromise to get higher framerates when needed.
 
Agree with Mark 100%. I've had instances in somewhat high contrast exteriors where the shadow detail looked like it was "moving" in RC28. If your hardware setup allows you to shoot at RC36 comfortably, that'd be the way to go.
 
I've never used the R1, but I would guess that it's sort of like shooting higher bit depth on a DSLR : if you expose correctly you may not always be able to see the difference straight out of the camera, but if you need to make major exposure or color changes in post you've preserved more latitude to work with.
 
No, that's a very different thing, you are talking about DR or bit depth. Red is always RAW.

RC28 vs. 36 is more like data-rates on digital TV – only both far better ;-)
 
"always RAW" doesn't mean anything in regards to bit depth or even image quality. RAW doesn't mean uncompressed, it just means settings like white balance and sharpening and tone curves are never "baked in." And while the R1 has high bit depth processors and uses lower compression levels (higher bitrates), cameras with low bit depth ADCs that use lots of compression can shoot RAW too.There's a sub-$1000 Nikon Coolpix point-and-shoot that does so!

I understand that bit rate, bit depth, and dynamic range are three different things, but the only way to reduce bit rate without reducing the framerate or physical dimensions is to reduce the amount of color information (bit depth and dynamic range). So while RC28 has a high enough bit rate that under normal circumstances you can't tell anything is missing, there IS less color information there than with RC36.
 
Is it OK to switch between RC28 to RC36 in the same project?
 
Back
Top