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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Red Scarlet Noise Issue

I'm getting this problem as well. Also reported this in the main thread. It's a crappy thing to have happen. Even if that footage is raw I can't help but think that particular footage is lost. I shot a entire concert and found this all over the place. Even in the interviews. I've been posting in nearly every thread that comes up about this. It seems to be an issue with the new firmware. Everything is lit and balanced properly. I've shot it at RedGamma 2, RedLogFilm, and RedGamma 3, get the same noise issue with all of them. Even when in raw. Even if I change it in RCX I still have the noising showing up. It's even more prevalent in RG3
 
It looks like a ~2-4% difference in blacks from the Red One MX to the Scarlet. The Scarlet is crushing the blacks slightly greater than the Red One MX in this specific example.
 
I tried out the timelapse function today with 1 fps. But what should have been a nice looking panorama view ended up as a major problem:

Noise%2Btest.jpg


As you can see, there's a lot of red, green and blue noise dots which I'm pretty sure isn't meant to be there. I shot it at ISO 12800, but even at ISO 320 these dots are visible. Is there something wrong with my camera?
 
Jesper Sichlau said:
I tried out the timelapse function today with 1 fps. But what should have been a nice looking panorama view ended up as a major problem:

Noise%2Btest.jpg


As you can see, there's a lot of red, green and blue noise dots which I'm pretty sure isn't meant to be there. I shot it at ISO 12800, but even at ISO 320 these dots are visible. Is there something wrong with my camera?
Click to expand...

did you do a blackshade?
 
Probably not since I don't know what that is or how you do it. I have shot lots of underexposed stuff without these RGB-dots, it only appears when I shoot 1 fps timelapses.
 
Joseph Coleman said:
Little love.....if you view the clip at 320 iso in redcineX you can see exactly what the sensor was seeing, its pretty easy to see why your seeing as much noise as you are. This test really impressed me in how much you can starve the MX sensor of light and still get a decent result after processing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for doing this! What a huge difference. Would you mind sharing what filters/changes were applied?
 
Jesper Sichlau said:
Probably not since I don't know what that is or how you do it. I have shot lots of underexposed stuff without these RGB-dots, it only appears when I shoot 1 fps timelapses.
Click to expand...

I got these at 400 ISO in lowlight as well and I did blackshade. Not sure whats happening but it appears there is a problem somewhere.
 
Those bright-colored pixels (shown by Jesper) are what happens when you shoot that slow of a shutter speed/framerate without running a blackshading at that appropriate shutter (as some of you have suggested). This is not a RED specific characteristic.
 
Jeffrey Loewe said:
I got these at 400 ISO in lowlight as well and I did blackshade. Not sure whats happening but it appears there is a problem somewhere.
Click to expand...

make sure you perform the black shade once the camera has warmed up to its operating temp or your blackshade will be off.

I've been shooting lowlight for years at 800 with no noise, so something with your blackshade is off.
 
Jesper Sichlau said:
I'm doing a Black Shade right now to see if it helps.

[EDIT]

The Black Shade helped. Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

Cool, now you should be good. Anytime you see noise like this run a blackshade once the camera has warmed up. If you do it right away upon powering up, the blackshade will be slightly off once the camera warms up.
 
If you have time, yes. If you are in a new environment in terms of heat / cold / humidity etc, yes. If you have changed the shutter speed below 1/48 or above 1/96, yes. If you are going to be shooting dark backgrounds / subjects, yes. If you are going to underexpose, yes.

All that said I've done all of the above, sometimes together, without noise, without a blackshade.

And I've shot perfectly normal 24 fps well exposed footage with NOISE EVERYWHERE, without a blackshade.

So even though the official line is you don't have to blackshade... blackshade over breakfast and your footage will always come out stronger.
 
Matt Ryan said:
make sure you perform the black shade once the camera has warmed up to its operating temp or your blackshade will be off.

I've been shooting lowlight for years at 800 with no noise, so something with your blackshade is off.
Click to expand...

I power my camera on via the wall adapter and perform a blackshade usually after it runs for 20-30 minutes.
 
First thing I did was increase the ISO to 3200. Set Redcolor3 and redLogFilm. Then I crushed the blacks until I had a proper black point. There was still some blue noise so I reduced the blue channel in the lift settings until it was gone. After that I adjusted Gamma, then I exported at fullres dpx to nuke where I applied some noise reduction. Redcine X's noise reduction, from what I understand is dedicated to a certain sensor pattern noise. I'm sure someone else can further elaborate on this. I choose to do noise reduction in another program (nuke, premiere/AE via neat video plugin). Then I applied some sharpening, perhaps too much. But I like to compensate for the softness at 2k. hope that helps.....
 
Jeffrey Loewe said:
I power my camera on via the wall adapter and perform a blackshade usually after it runs for 20-30 minutes.
Click to expand...

and your getting noisy images at 400iso? Thats not normal.
What does your histogram look like?
 
Was anyone able to download the footage i posted up?I have done some more tests and it seems the culprit might be redgamma3, really misleading... as it sems to bump the noise level through the roof as opposed to redgamma2 or redgamma.Im confirming this with some new test footage between the two cameras... if the link i provided sucks ill get it up somewhere else.
 
Did blackshading need to get done as often with the R1mx? I don't recall it being as much of a necessity... It seems to be a pretty big pain in the ass (regardless of when you do it; 20mins for the camera to warm up and 20mins for blackshade is about 30mins longer than it takes me to eat breakfast).

Vitaly, I've been reading that RG3 might not be the best to monitor in... Or does the noise also show up in RCX regardless of what you view it under?
 
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Mike P. said:
Did blackshading need to get done as often with the R1mx? I don't recall it being as much of a necessity... It seems to be a pretty big pain in the ass (regardless of when you do it; 20mins for the camera to warm up and 20mins for blackshade is about 30mins longer than it takes me to eat breakfast).
Click to expand...

It's definitely a time killer. We always blackshade prior to a shoot, taking into account the desired project settings and the studio temperature / weather forecast. A single failed calibration will put you at a one hour deficit (taking into account warmup time and a second calibration), so it's not always best to do it on set. In the case of a rental, I'd rather not leave calibration in the hands of the production. They could very easily create a bad calibration by not letting the camera warm up enough, see the "calibration successful" dialog, and begin shooting.
 
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