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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

RED One remote trigger question

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Mitch Gross

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Forgive me, I'm sure this info is available somewhere. It's a holiday in the US so I don't have access to my files and I'm trying to assist someone on an important shoot.

The trigger input on the GPI/O functions via the Lemo-4 sockets on the rear of the camera. I believe this functions simply by closing a loop between two contacts, correct? It's not one of those circuits where one might need to float a 5 milliamp voltage or any other special parameter, is it? I'm pretty sure we just make connection between those two contacts and the camera is triggered (assuming the GPI is set to start recording). Am I right? Thanks in advance.

Simple question I know, but my guy is in a remote location and needs to build a rig.
 
Mitch, just temporarily tie pins 1 & 2 together. As viewed from the back of the camera they are the top left and bottom left pins on the aux. four pin connectors. One momentary contact will start and another momentary contact will stop. Make sure to use the top port as that is usually set for record start/stop. A word of caution... DO NOT TIE PINS 3 & 4 TOGETHER, bad things will happen.
 
Thanks Curt; exactly as I remembered it. I knew you'd know off the top of your head.
 
Can you explain, might want to do this on underwater housing.
 
Cail Young said:
CVB is right... the Epic, though, is another kettle of fish...
Click to expand...

Why is that? As I understand it, there is a port on the EPIC body which functions the same way. Different connector and pins, but it functions similarly, correct?

I have another client asking us to make a cable for the EPIC, so this is useful to know. Is it perhaps not yet an enabled feature?
 
Found out for myself. A Schmidt trigger, requiring 3.3v to float across it to activate. Can't just be closing a loop anymore, but easy enough to build a little circuit.
 
A Schmidt trigger, requiring 3.3v to float across it to activate. Can't just be closing a loop anymore, but easy enough to build a little circuit.
Click to expand...

Correct. For space and other reasons on the camera Brain it's a Schmidt trigger, however on the PRO I/O Module we replicated the RED ONE style 4-pin LEMO with Aux Power Out and GPI/O contact closure / tally signals, so you can use any of your existing cables and accessories without modification.
 
Mitch Gross said:
Found out for myself. A Schmidt trigger, requiring 3.3v to float across it to activate. Can't just be closing a loop anymore, but easy enough to build a little circuit.
Click to expand...

3.3-5v is the recommended range.
 
5v -- USB-power anyone?

Good to hear bout the Pro I/O design.
 
We're working on one for a client. For a quickie solution we stuck a couple of AA batteries in line and it worked. Three cells would be better. Deanan (or anyone), what's the current drain for this circuit? Can't imagine it's too much, essentially a solid state relay.
 
Mitch Gross said:
We're working on one for a client. For a quickie solution we stuck a couple of AA batteries in line and it worked. Three cells would be better. Deanan (or anyone), what's the current drain for this circuit? Can't imagine it's too much, essentially a solid state relay.
Click to expand...

If it's only on for record, i've had 3 AAAs last for many days.
email for a super simple circuit if anyone wants to make their own.
 
Lemme work on it and I'll let you know.
 
If you are making a few remote triggers for Red One let me know. I had a shoulder shoot last week and it was a pain finding the record button with the camera in full dress.

Thanks!
 
I purchased a third party switch. It worked fine until yesterday it stopped working while filming on location. I am dead in the water until I can get it fixed.

Here is what it is doing: When pressing the switch, the recording starts momentarily and then shuts off (stops recording). I get maybe one second of recording time. If we press the record button on the camera it works fine, and the tally light on the switch even comes on. Any idea what's going on?

Thanks,
Phil
 
Phil, it sounds like your third party switch is not keeping the signal high after you turn it on. Perhaps the switch is broken or batteries are low?

For those of you looking to build a circuit, there is a simple schematic in Appendix D of the Operations Manual. It includes a LED so you can tell when it is on, but you can eliminate that if you want to make it simple. It will work with 2 or 3 AA or AAA cells. We have let the batteries drain to about 1.8v and it still works. If you are using a push-button switch, its important to use a push on, push off type. Like this one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049717
That way when you click it on, it stays on and you have to click it again to turn it off. A simple momentary switch will leave you holding the button to keep it recording.
Current draw is minimal by the camera is minimal, on the order of 10 milliamps.
 
The Monstercine switch must use power from the camera, because all it has is an XLR cable to the switch, no power.

Any further ideas?

Phil
 
Phil are you talking RED One or Epic/Scarlet? I just realized this forum is RED ONE, all of my response is about Epic, since it looked like thats where topic went. just to be clear.

If Epic:
There is no power coming out of the camera on the SYNC port of the Epic Brain. If the Monstercine switch is not supplying power there is no way this can work. All the other pins on the SYNC port are either inputs or GND. It would be interesting to know which two pins they are shorting when you close the switch though. Other than the switch closure causing a spike which creates the momentary record this type of arrangement will not work for Epic.
 
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