RED MX ISO

[Ryan Sean Davy]

IF filter away IR light...

The more ND filtering you use, the more IR light wil get through, as conventional ND's don't filter IR light.

I have seen a few theories in the line of "Above ND X, allways use an IR cut", which is a bit simplified, but usually good advice.

Problem is that IR pollution can vary a lot due to uncontrallable factors, like what's going on in the sky - even on the same location the same day, without heat neccesarily being the only telltale factor. Snow f.ex. can reflect it and maximy the pollution, if it is there and i dunno what. As far as I can see, there's no viewable indicator as to when the IR pollution hits but looking at your image. But it IS true that the more ND you use, the more likely you are to get into trouble.

I don't like to allways run around with an IR cut in front, though because, when you know what to look for, it is often quite easily spotable.

Symproms:
Greens go mushy and grey (like forests or grass.)
Blacks go violet . (trousers, shirts and fabric is often quite telltale objects)
Greys go magenta.

There are combined IR/ND filters out there, that some love and I hate (of course I need to be a wacko in this regard, too...) -

When the combined filters are stacked, you tend to get unwanted artifacts due to mirroring between the filters, that regular ND's won't give you. This can happen if you only put in a pola...

So I prefer to use regular ND's with an IR cut in front, when needed.

(We actually ran a lot of practical tests on this this summer on a TV-series, and when finnished, we all agreed that the combi-filters were much more of a ticking bomb, than occationally recording a bit of IR pollution, which you mostly can grade away.)

Gunleik

Very useful info, thanx a mill gunleik, appreciate it, gonna google this as well and get some more info, never heard of a IR cut filter before so will look into it so that I have what is needed when I get my red thanx a mill:thumbup1:

 

[Rob Ruffo]

The new imporved Rosco IR is a Godsend. We leave it on outside/day with MX

 

[Ryan Sean Davy]

The new imporved Rosco IR is a Godsend. We leave it on outside/day with MX

hmmm, something else I'm not familiar with, what is that and by saying you leave it on outside/day, is that a menu option?

 

[Pablo Villegas S.]

I don't know what "most people" do, but it's pointless to get highlight - protection on-set (by setting the ISO @ above 320) if you don't reclaim it in post (by lowering it)
Digging up the lowlights is pretty trivial. Keeping the highlights is a bit more tricky.

But if you shoot for "DTD" (my new: Direct to delivery term) with in-camera grading etc, you can set the ISO wherever you find noise pleasing and post from there.

You will lose a lot of latitude, though. (But that ain't allways bad)

You basically have to know whether you're shooting for DI or for for DTD. If you know the answer to that question, you will know what your on-set exposure priorities should be...

So, you set the ISO to 800 and monitor it and expose using REDcolor?

Well, in my first shoot with RED MX I did that, but then I had to grade it myself, and to start grading from a Log, and resetting the RED tab Primary in Color, was very difficult to me, so I basically started with the same metadata I used to monitor it on field. So I didn't saw the advantage of shooting with a different ISO on field if you're still exposing in REDcolor. And grading from there.

here is what I shot, the grading was just a natural look feeling, with a bit saturation added.

http://www.vimeo.com/pablovi/videos

 

[Gunleik Groven]

As long as there aren't any highlight issues, you won't need to think about highlight protection... -

 

[Mike_Vukas]

I found your posted very helpful. Just started working with the 800 chip and the way it handles I suspected that it was still a 320 asa, but was able to be pushed cleanly to 800.
The link to the footage looks fantastic. My background is film, but I have done several features with the RED and the new MX chip is impressive. Thanks for your posts.