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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Rating the RED

Julien, something doesn't sound right. You should be getting way more than 80asa. I am just thinking here, is your lens T-stop accurate? Is your meter accurate?
 
In my experience with RED (and digital photography) trying to find the mid-point gray is kind of useless. It works with film because film has headroom in the highlights and doesn't just cut them off, like digital.

The correct exposure with digital depends on the contrast in the image you are shooting. If you are shooting a low contrast subject, it is worth it to overexpose to keep your shadows clean. In a high contrast situation you will have to choose whether you want to keep your shadows or your highlights - most likely somewhere in between. So the correct exposure (or iso) will change throughout the day. Keep an eye on the histogram, waveform or zebras and make decisions based on that. And keep in mind that setting the iso lower than 320 can clip the highlights and turn them gray in the monitor which makes it difficult to see.
 
I've rated it at 200, and shot everything using a light meter. If you're using a light meter I suppose you could rate it however you wanted though, and setting higher or lower speeds would just increase/decrease noise in the final image.
 
False Color Meter

False Color Meter

To clarify - you can't meter via Spot Meter, Zebra or False Color meter with VIEW=RAW.

On Build 16 these are tuned to REDspace, Build 17 REDspace or REC 709.
 
sander kamp said:
In my experience with RED (and digital photography) trying to find the mid-point gray is kind of useless. It works with film because film has headroom in the highlights and doesn't just cut them off, like digital.

The correct exposure with digital depends on the contrast in the image you are shooting. If you are shooting a low contrast subject, it is worth it to overexpose to keep your shadows clean. In a high contrast situation you will have to choose whether you want to keep your shadows or your highlights - most likely somewhere in between. So the correct exposure (or iso) will change throughout the day. Keep an eye on the histogram, waveform or zebras and make decisions based on that. And keep in mind that setting the iso lower than 320 can clip the highlights and turn them gray in the monitor which makes it difficult to see.
Click to expand...

Very good description of the "light-dynamic-data-budget", sort of the hole issue film-vs-digital at this time. :)
 
from what i recall ... 0-108 ire is Video - back in late 70's early 80's video had a 5 stop range .. so setting a grey card to whatever they set it to back then ( 50?) is not going to do it today ... now we have 10-11 stop range within that same 0-109 ire range ..
i'm not that "up" on the fine IRE tech spec's but if viewing in 709 i'm not sure you're going to be able to see/view 10-11stops ??
seems 10-11stops is what will be within RAW file ..then you have to start knocking off a stop or 2 on the bottom end depending on how much noise you like or dislike ... so your test results should be more in the 9+ stop ( safe, low noise floor) area ... somewhere in there will be your ISO ... you should come up with you have X stops under Grey card and Y stops over grey card ... then you spot meter using that range ...
 
Johnny M said:
I've rated it at 200, and shot everything using a light meter. If you're using a light meter I suppose you could rate it however you wanted though, and setting higher or lower speeds would just increase/decrease noise in the final image.
Click to expand...

How did you rate it? 1/50 shutter, Raw, 50% waveform?

Thanks to tell me
 
Stuart English said:
To clarify - you can't meter via Spot Meter, Zebra or False Color meter with VIEW=RAW.

On Build 16 these are tuned to REDspace, Build 17 REDspace or REC 709.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm. I have been going in to "Raw View" and using false color to "check my neg"? When I do this I seem to see more detail in the image than when it is NOT in Raw View. False color seems to respond accordingly?

Is my methodology incorrect?
 
Julien;
(Metering at )1/48 shutter (shooting 24fps). Don't particularly look at waveforms, histograms etc. Shooting RAW to cf cards. Incident metering with Sekonic L-508. Treating the RED as if it were loaded with Kodak 250D.
Best,
Jm
 
im confused, if i am in redspace b16 shooting in 320 and shutter of 1/48. i set up the iso to 320 and the shutter on a 1/48 on my sekonic light meter. and i hit the sekonic button to give me the stops I need. Will the number be wrong?
 
Metering

Metering

Akube said:
im confused, if i am in redspace b16 shooting in 320 and shutter of 1/48. i set up the iso to 320 and the shutter on a 1/48 on my sekonic light meter. and i hit the sekonic button to give me the stops I need. Will the number be wrong?
Click to expand...

For most situations that's the way I would do it.....

But there may be other occasions - such as very low contrast where you might experiment with other ratings.
 
In my opinion, when shooting digital, light meters are for maintaining a constant contrast ratio, not for setting exposure.

I tried rating an HDX-900 with my meter, and got similar results - much lower ASA than expected. So, I just used the waveform to expose to the right, and everything turned out dandy.

That said, on location scouts I use my meter set to 200 ASA to be a little conservative about light levels, knowing that they are generally in the 300 range (2/3" we're talking, here).
 
Hi,

Another greycard/false color test result from me.
If i do the test with RAW view it gives me 80 ISO
If i do the test wth RedSpace view it gives me 160 ISO
I think 160ISO for REDSpace is a conslusion.

ergin
 
Am I the only one who tossed his light meter and uses the histogram? I basically protect the highlights and light everything else where I want it. anything else can be fine tuned in Red Cine or Red Alert or Color or.........
 
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