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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

R1-MX vs Canon 7D @ 1000 ISO Quick & Dirty Side by Side Test

MX vs. 7D ISO 800

MX vs. 7D ISO 800

My new test is here:

Everything happened exactly the same as with the test before:

Again 7D is totally inferior to R1-MX but it still has OLPF candle flare light mirroring issue (look at the left down corner at the mx test-2 clip example here below).

Have look and tell me what you see more about it here:

R1-MX

mx-03-final.jpg

Shot on R1-MX with Leica Summicron-R f/2.0 @ f/4.8, 800 ISO, 25 fps. 1/30 shutter, 5500K.

Download 1080p h264 quick & dirty example >>>

Download 4K JPG example>>>

Canon 7D

7d-03-final-02.jpg

Shot on Canon 7D with Leica Summicron-R f/2.0 @ f/4.8, 800 ISO, 25 fps. 1/30 shutter, AWB.


Download 1080p h264 quick & dirty example >>>

Download 7D still photo JPG example>>>


Shooting rig photos:

mxvs7d-rig-01.jpg

Left R1-MX, right Canon 7D.


mxvs7d-rig-02.jpg

Left R1-MX, right Canon 7D.


mxvs7d-rig-03.jpg

A look at the shooting stage.
 
MX vs 7D 800 ISO test no. 2

MX vs 7D 800 ISO test no. 2

My last test done with both cameras as a dual rig sliding on Kessler's Cine Slider.

Again R1-MX shines and 7D is inferior but also can be a pretty good B camera with any R1-MX project.

r1mx-04-03-h264.jpg

Shot on R1-MX with Leica Summicron-M 50mm f/2.0 @ f/6.3, ISO 800, 25 fps, 1/50, WB in RCX.

Download R1-MX 1080p short clip>>>>

7d-04-02-h264.jpg

Shot on Canon 7D with Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 @ f/6.3, ISO 800, 25 fps, 1/50, 5500K.

Download Canon 7D 1080p short clip>>>>
 
Sanjin, could you post a still from the 1080p 7D video? This would be very informative (and certainly would look worse than a "real" still - it is, after all, a pretty good stills camera).
 
R1-MX vs Canon 7D @ 1000 ISO Quick & Dirty Side by Side Test:

The test shot with the same lens Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 and at the same aperture @ f/2.5.

Please, let me know what you think?

i`d like to know what picture profile you used on the 7D..
or what your settings were in the picture porfile you used.

if you use the "superflat" or "superflat advanced" you might get a lot more out of shadows and lights,
always minding that a 7D just spits out 8Bit..
 
For this tests I decided to use Marvels Cine as a picture style.

well if you shoot 2 clips in superflat and marvels cine, put em side by side in apples color e.g. you might notice a sudden waste of blacks/whites..

maybe you'll find the time to put up a "superflat" image right next to what you`ve shot on the R1..

the 7D'll still lose against "mother" but the gap (exept bit depth itself) wont be that wide anymore.
 
well if you shoot 2 clips in superflat and marvels cine, put em side by side in apples color e.g. you might notice a sudden waste of blacks/whites..

maybe you'll find the time to put up a "superflat" image right next to what you`ve shot on the R1..

the 7D'll still lose against "mother" but the gap (exept bit depth itself) wont be that wide anymore.

You also need to note what settings the Sharpness, Contrast, Saturation and Tone (S,C,S,T) are set at. These settings can still be dialed in camera with the Picture Style.
I like the look of superflat, but use (0,0,0,0) settings.
 
You also need to note what settings the Sharpness, Contrast, Saturation and Tone (S,C,S,T) are set at. These settings can still be dialed in camera.
I like the look of superflat, but use (0,0,0,0) settings.

...i also noticed that the h.264 reacts blurry when you reduce the contrast, especially in the whites and blacks..

that's why i stick to a little contrast, just a little..

of course you could add a little sharpness later, but why do that if you didn't loose in the first place..

after all 5D's and 7D's gotta be well lit.. i mean... the objects there pointed at.
 
Superflat? More like supercrap. I can tell any time anyone has used that picture style even after extensive grading. It's the one that has ruined skintones, and complete loss of detail in any gradation. Sort of agree about the contrast setting. The image these hdslrs create is very brittle. You have to NAIL every shot you want to be useable. I find that sometimes you have to vary the adjustments on a scene by scene basis to create something consistent that doesn't look like ass. Again, horses for courses. I see the hdslrs (for now) as a replacement for any job budgeted for mini-dv. I use Red for anything that is budgeted for HD-cam through film-budgeted jobs. All depends on what you are shooting or hoping to be shooting and knowing the results you will get.

Thanks for the test Sanjin!
 
^^ I have to agree the cam is only 2K... yes the 7D is a different beast when it comes to low light and even dynamic range... But two things... what picture style was this shot in on the 7D? Im assuming standard, which sucks... try re shooting in Marvel Cine, huge difference and results will be much better... also The stills taken in movie live mode are hardly a representation of the cameras still capability at all... in fact they are quite terrible... I have produced some beautiful images with my 7D ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/46711364@N07/4660802161/in/set-72157624184175500/ ... in fact I just finished shooting 2 test scenes for a movie staring Bug Hall last week... and they looked incredible, super flat and ready for color... I love RED with all mah heart.... but I love my 7D as well...
 
Regarding stills mode vs. 1080p h264: I found the SevenDee's compression to pretty much crap out when going above ISO 800. Therefore, this test might suggest it to be better than it actually is when used for motion. Except you wanted to compare them in their use as still cams.
 
The 7D will out shoot the Mysterium X ONE in still mode any day of the week... ill put my money where my mouth is on that one...
 
The 7D will out shoot the Mysterium X ONE in still mode any day of the week... ill put my money where my mouth is on that one...


That's not true.

In last test it was one so called aperture number "inaccuracy" made by Canon EF lens or

7D that is not the same number as it is with the manual lenses from Leica or Canon FD.

What happened?

The picture from Leica lens @ f/6.3 is much darker than it is with Canon EF @ f/6.3.

I couldn't figure out what happened but then swapped Canon 50mm FD L lens and it was the same darker image than @ 7D.

After I swap EF lens on RED and have got lighter or clipping image.

To conclude is to say that 7D or Canon EF lenses don't have the same aperture value numbers as manual lenses.

At that was the reason that I had to lift FLUT in RCX to value 2.0 to get similar brightness between the two tested images and clips.

So at Flut 2.0 you'll get some of the noise that is visible at R1MX still example.

BTW at the first low light example that shows the test with the same lens (Canon EF 50 mm f/1.4)

you can see actually that 7D still image has more noise and other sort of artifacts...
 
And it is terrible!

Green looks terrible on both cameras...

And the 7D doesn't have that weird "light-creep/ghost" around the flame. But, yea, MX noise looks great overall.

BTW, DO NOT use 1000 on the 7D. It's a digitally augmented ISO. Only 160, 320, 620, 1250, ect... are real ISO values. The ones in between like 1000 do some weird noise manipulation in-camera to get the "in between" values. It doesn't really matter on stills, but for video it makes the compression and noise much worse.

Here's a good example...

http://marvelsfilm.wordpress.com/2009/10/10/canon-7d-noise-and-iso-test/
 
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