Proper Exposure

[Shawn Seifert]

Hi Redusers.

Question for everyone about properly exposing a red Camera.
The more I've worked with the red, the more I realize I don't really know how to properly expose the camera using false colours or an actual light metre. I'm hoping someone can help me out here. I usually expose by trying to reach a balanced histogram and using the stoplights, but I'm trying to expand my exposure knowledge.

So here is what I was doing today during prep for a short.

I set up a 18% grey card and light it to a T:4. I then turned on the false colours and played with the aperture until I had the card showing green.
Now here is where my confusion started. In RedRaw I had to go down to a T2 1/3 and in RedColour I had to go to a T2.8 1/2. (These numbers are from memory and are probably not exactly correct)
Given my basic understandings on Curves, Luts I understand why there is a difference. Where I'm confused is which colour space should I be exposing too?

If I use my light metre and get a T2.8, is that T2.8 in RedRaw or RedColor?

And how should I take into account the other colour spaces and gamma curves that are in RedCinx when shooting?

Thanks Everyone.
Shawn

 

[Tim Sutherland]

Which sensor, M or M-X? The RedColor space accounts for changes in ISO, the RedRaw does not. Most likely you want to meter for RedColor, and use RedRaw as a way to check to see where your image falls within the raw capture. That will let you check how much higlight and shadow information is being preserved that you may not see in RedColor.

Hope that helps. Wit M-X sensor, you will see a greater differece between the two because you're probably shooting a higher ISO, like 500-800 and the RAW is looking more like around 320. With the M sensor you are mostly seeing just the difference due to the curve if you are shooting more in the 320-400 ISO range.

Hope that helps.

Tim

 

[Shawn Seifert]

Thanks Tim for the info.

I should have mentioned that yes I'm working with a MX sensor at 800 iso.

What you said makes sense, but I'm still a bit confused.

In RedColor, should my light metre match (or at least be closer than half a stop) with the false colours in the camera? Or is that 1/2 stop just accountable to human error (slight angle on the grey card?).