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Pops and clicks in Epic audio

Mark Wilkinson

Mark Wilkinson

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I'm recording a Sennheiser G3 into my Epic with the proper cables and I'm getting an intermittent popping and clicking noise.

Is anyone else experiencing problems like this and is there a fix or workaround?

I thought I'd seen some mention of it, but cannot locate the thread.

Thanks -
 
Bump.
 
XLR to minijack with the correct wiring - got it at Coffey Sound here in LA. I'm not getting the pops and clicks when sound comes in from my production sound rig - just direct from the Lav packs. I get the same problem with my Lectrosonic.
 
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I got these specifically for the Epic and they are labeled "Epic Audio" but who knows...

I'll get one just to check - thanks.
 
If you're getting fine audio from your mixer and not when it comes from the lav packs, then I'd look at the wiring of the signal coming out of the lav packs. The mixer is most likely a proper balanced out. What comes out of the lav pacs? And is your camera set for balanced or unbalanced audio? (balanced audio is working now, so there is a choice.)
 
I have a couple of the same wireless kits and I have had issues with one of them on an HPX170. I wouldn't blame the camera, it is most likely the wireless. Check to see what firmware you have on them. The one I have the issues with has 1.0 firmware, that's what I get for getting one hot off the production line. Since I work for a Sennheiser dealer I am checking to see if I can get that firmware upgraded.
 
And by "intermittent" I mean that it happens sometimes and I can't seem to get it to stop - reboot, unplug, whatever. Then it doesn't happen at another time. I wonder if it could be heat related...

That would seem to indicate it isn't the wiring...
 
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You need to supply more info. Specifically what settings on the Epic, and if you are feeding line or mic levels. Also can you check the wiring on the cable.
 
I'm outputting -12db from the pack - should be good mic level.

38 db in on the Epic.

If it were about the settings - it should be recreating now. Which it isn't. I'm letting the camera run on the off-chance that it has something to do with the heat. Could be battery level.

Obviously, I'm just guessing at this point...

All ideas welcome.

I've experienced this problem in both NY and LA. Could be a coastal thing...
 
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Assuming the problem is the cables, people would be able to offer an opinion or help if you would give complete information, such as wiring diagrams or results from checking connections with a voltmeter, rather than saying you are using the correct cables or repeating manufacturer's descriptions.

In fact, if you are going from a wireless receiver to Epic minijack with an XLR connection in-between, aren't you actually using two cables? In that case, to get advice you should know how each one is wired.

Easy solution for the G3: skip the XLR. Get a simple stereo male to stereo male cable from Radio Shack and set the Epic input to unbalanced, which matches the unbalanced output from a G3. This gives the tip-tip, ring-ring, sleeve-sleeve connection you need, and apparently are not getting from the cable combination(s) you've tried.

No, I don't own Epic or even Scarlet, but I do know a bit about audio - especially lower end equipment.
 
you don't need to bother with XLR etc.. heres what worked for me.. don't use the Sennheiser 3.5mm cable, its cross wired and wrong for epic / scarlet (I'm no audio expert)
get a standard 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable much as you might use to put your iPod into a car stereo etc and try that.
a cable where ring tip and sleeve are wired to ring tip and sleeve seems to work for me anyway

jas
 
I use that mic using the cable as Jason described above, no problems like you describe.
 
Thanks for the ideas, everyone.

I will try the 1/8" to 1/8 - sounds like an elegant solution.
 
Check this out:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?73575-Scarlet-audio-ticking-noise-error

Quote:

Indeed, the solution lies in the PL mount and the lens.

After an evening testing in a last attempt to discover what could be the cause of the ticking, I removed the PL lens (RPZ 17-50). And voila, the ticking was gone. It turned out to be the 4 small contacts inside the PL lens mount (for Cooke S4/i lens data) that are obviously in contact with the lens mount and causing unintentional short-circuiting with audio-interference (ticking) as a result.

Now on the lens mount at the spot where these contacts hit the lens I taped a small piece of transparent adhesive tape. And the noise is gone. So far during testing the ticking didn't occur anymore.
 
One point here. As soon as Phantom power is enabled the incidence of pops and click will increase massively. The 3.5mm jack has a small contact area and dust and dirt is sadly inevitable, mic level is at best -50 and the Phantom volts will be at 48V. So any movement in the plug/socket is likely to create a splat.

Given the 3.5mm jacks are what we have Id use gold plated conectors such as the Neutrik right angle mini jacks to give best results and clean them daily with switch cleaner. The black case connectors are good to minimise any reflection issues.

Best option is go Line level in and not use phantom volts at all.
 
Hey Mark, how are ya? I had this problem with my camera, and two of my friends cameras. I sent mine back to Red, and they fixed it by reloading the firmware. I'm not sure how they did it though because I had reloaded the firmware myself 3 times before sending the camera in.
 
Wow - great to know.

I sent an email to the Red Team and have not heard back. I'll call them -

Thanks!
 
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