polarizor filters - circular or linear????

[WesG]

Schneider makes both a 5.65x5.65 circular true polarizer and a
5.65x5.65 linear true polarizer.

What's the difference and which should I order?

Any advice would be great - thx

 

[Daniel Reichenbach]

circular were constructed for DSLR because of the autofocus systems beamsplitter, you don't need them for a manual focus system, linears are less expensive

 

[T. Glen Phelps]

I'm going with Schneider's 138mm round drop-in liner tru-pol.

 

[WesG]

circular were constructed for DSLR because of the autofocus systems beamsplitter, you don't need them for a manual focus system, linears are less expensive

ahhhh good stuff thanks for that :biggrin:

 

[Phil Becque]

Hi Nalu,

If you are using this for taking shots of clouds you might find that the circular gives you 'better' or maybe more 'consistent' quality. With a linear you sometimes have to rotate it through some abitrary angle it to get the look you want. I've never had to do that with a circular. Having said that; I'm obsessive about cloud photos so this may not apply to you and the cheap and cheerful linear may do all that you need.

Best regards, Phil

 

[Siva Kollipara]

If we are going through Birger/nikon route, isn't better optio to use regular round filter attached to the lens, rather than buying 4x4 OR 4x5.65 filters.
What are the drawbacks of using screw in filters?

 

[Mark Crabtree]

Matte Box

Matte Box

Screw in filters work the same as square or rectangular filters in a Matte Box. The advantages of the matte box are that you do not have to mess with the step up rings and multiple screw in filter rings that can get stuck together and be a pain to uncouple. Lots of time can be waisted on set while trying to get them apart when you need to change filters. Also the matte box lets you rotate the filter and slide it up or down, a big advantage when you want to knock the bright clouds down a couple of stops with a grad and get the grad line positioned perfectly on the horizon whether the horizon is out of level or not center frame. And don't forget the matte box will help you eliminate possible flare. If you are going the still camera route then the redrock micro would be a great bang for the buck.

 

[Mark Crabtree]

Matte Box and Polarizers

Matte Box and Polarizers

One more thing about polarizers. When you stack filters the polarizer should be the filter on the outside. That way you do not polarize the light coming through the glass of the other filters which sometimes creates unwanted effects.

 

[Brent J. Craig]

You usually need a circular polarizer when you are using it on a film camera with a video tap. Polarized light interferes with the video tap beamsplitter in unpredictable ways.

I would say if the price difference isn't substantial, always go with the circular ones because they can be successfully used in more applications.

Not knowing what the future may hold in terms of what's between the lens and the imager (OLPFs, prisms, beamsplitters) I would never buy a linear pola.

 

[david farland]

One more thing about polarizers. When you stack filters the polarizer should be the filter on the outside. That way you do not polarize the light coming through the glass of the other filters which sometimes creates unwanted effects.

Would this be a problem if you were just using ND's or even grad?

Cheers,

 

[Finner]

From the way I understand Sheltie's post he is way wrong. The pola should be the filter closest to the lens.

 

[david farland]

I can understand if you use diffusion filters there may be a problem of having the pola at the back but for ND's/Grad/Colors I don't.