Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)
Ive used a little aluminium piece of 20cmx2cm with a hole and screwed it on the lateral top plate holes. The pix has a hole in the back, I've used a screw to mount the Pix.
I also just noticed this morning that the latest pix firmware allows for a sensor flip so the pix could be mounted with the cables coming out of the top. There's a lot of other updates in there as well.
It has a cage with 1/4-20 and 3/8" mounts all around and comes with a battery plate to add Anton Bauer or IDX battery plates. The handle and stand are great for directors handheld. I have mine paired with a very lightweight HD transmitter.
I mounted my 240 on a 9" noga arm with a cinelock q-release. Rock solid plus I can configure the PIX any angle I need with a quick twist. Dismounts in a second, arm folds up neatly against the camera body for storage...
Hard mounts would certainly be (1) cheaper and (2) fine if you never need to actually look at the rig when in use.
Check out my solution for mounting the Pix240 on an F3. (This same solution works great on other cameras including Scarlet & Epic.)
I created a Custom cheeseplate called ENDURO POWER for the PIX that replace the entire back of the PIX . On my cheese plate is either an Anton or IDX battery plate. The battery plate internally powers the PIX and allow provides power to the Sony F3.
One battery powers everything!
The ENDURO POWER has over 20 mounting points in 1/4-20 & 3/8-16. The hole spacing is industry standard, and conforms to 9mm spacing increments.
My favorite setup for the Sony F3 is with an Element/Technica base plate with rear rods. On the bottom of my bracket I attach a x rod adapter and the PIX240 securly attaches.